In making a typical modern bezel setting, the bezel is shaped into the size and shape of the gem and then
soldered into place on the metal of the jewelry. The prepared stone is then placed into the bezel and the metal is pressed down over the edges of stone, locking it into place. A
cabochon stone, a gemstone that is not faceted, usually relies on the shallow
angle cut into the side of the stone, which helps the metal to stay in place. With a clear,
faceted stone, such as a diamond, a shallow groove is cut into the bezel itself. The girdle, or widest part of the gemstone, is placed in the bezel, which is then pushed down over the girdle. The pressure of the bezel over the edge keeps the stone in place. Bezel settings for diamonds are also called
rub-over settings; they have a diamond completely surrounded by a precious metal band which fastens the diamond securely into place. Bezel settings use a type of elevated collar which wraps the rim of the diamond in a complete metal edging. This type of diamond ring setting is the most secure fastener for the stones. The bezel setting also protects the diamond better than other types of settings, such as the
prong setting. A flush setting for diamond rings is a variation on the rub-over or bezel setting. In the flush setting, the stone is placed into an opening and affixed at the bottom of the stone. The top of the diamond is extended above the base.
Bezel setting advantages One advantage of the bezel setting, as compared to the
prong setting, is that the diamond is better protected from accidental rubbing or blows, and is less likely to allow the diamond to scratch whatever it may come into contact with. The bezel setting is also more secure, so the diamond is less likely to be dislodged. ==Watch bezel==