In the 19th century, Bradford was famous for its
worsted cloth, although life was hard for the workers. The displays show how a
fleece was transformed through various stages into a suit. In big factories, power could be transferred from one large drive wheel to another across a wide room via a reciprocating beam, called in that situation a crossbeam.
Out of skew Domestic looms with witch The hand
loom with the witch is typical of many that were used in the mills by cloth designers to develop new fabric designs and patterns. They are still used in the textile departments of universities and colleges for training students in weaving and the designing of fabrics. The shafts are lifted by a witch, an early form of
dobby, with weights underneath to pull the shafts down, and can work up to 50 shafts to produce very complicated patterns. The weft is put in by hand using the flying shuttle method invented in 1733 by
John Kay, and up to four colours can be woven in the weft using Robert Kay's (son of
John Kay) 1760 invention of the multiple shuttle box. On this simple-to-operate loom, the designer is able to explore the application of new design ideas before beginning production trials on a wider loom. Many of the designs for woven fabrics made today were developed and created long ago on similar narrow-width pattern looms. The handloom with
jacquard is a wooden hand loom typical of the many thousands of looms that were used in the domestic
cottage industry throughout the
British Isles. They were gradually replaced by all-metal looms (see the Hattersley domestic loom) and new methods of working practice, such as the
factory system, during the
Industrial Revolution. The loom has a four-shuttle drop box to weave up to four colours of weft and has
John Kay's flying shuttle method of inserting the weft. Most of the handlooms used in the home were ordinary shaft looms. These do not require roof space and would be weaving standard cloths, unlike this loom which is fitted with a 360 hook de Vogue
jacquard and can weave very complex fabrics. The plain
Hattersley Domestic Loom was specially developed for
cottage or home use and designed to replace the wooden handloom; the Domestic is similar in construction to a
power loom. It was introduced c.1900 and the makers claimed that a speed of 160 picks per minute could be easily attained with from 2 to 8 shafts weaving a variety of fabrics. Because foot pedals, or
treadles, operate the loom it is still classed as a handloom, but it is much easier and faster to weave as all the motions of the loom are connected via
crankshaft and
gear wheels. Because the loom is designed to use only one
shuttle when
weaving, giving a solid colour in the
weft, it is termed a plain loom. The
cast metal chair, manufactured along with the loom, can be raised or lowered to suit, and the seat rocks forward and back as the weaver
treadles the loom.
Power looms The Hattersley 6 × 1 revolving skip box: this dress goods loom, used for the
weaving of suiting fabrics, etc., is fitted with a negative V or angle dobby, a development of the original invented by Hattersley's in 1867. Known throughout the
textile industry as the
Keighley dobby, it has since been copied, modified, and manufactured in a variety of different forms. Hattersley also invented, in 1868, the skip box: a development of the circular or revolving box. This allowed the
shuttle box to bypass or skip the next compartment along and pick out the shuttle of the following one. The Dobcross H.K. box loom was manufactured in c.1950 by Hutchinson, Hollingworth & Co. Ltd of
Dobcross,
Oldham. This loom was claimed by its makers to be one of the most widely used power looms in the woollen and
worsted industries. It was used, with minor adaptations, for weaving goods as varied as light tropical suiting, costume cloths, overcoatings, army and police uniform cloths, and heavy blankets. The main feature of this loom is the dobby (located top right of the loom with the hand wheel) which is known as the Knowles, American, or positive wheel dobby. This device lifts and lowers the wooden shafts through which the
warp ends are threaded, separating the warp threads to produce the shed. The loom has four rising or drop boxes at each side, which can be moved independently and can weave up to seven
shuttles, each with a different colour. The Sowden
worsted coating loom: as in all mechanical devices, there is a drive to improve efficiency, and this loom has several
patent innovations. For example, the 28-shaft negative square dobby is similar in construction to Hattersley's
Keighley dobby. However, to allow the shuttle more time to pass through the shed the dobby has special curved slots that allow the shafts to dwell or remain open for longer. In addition, the pattern chain or lags controlling the shafts can be set to control all 28 shafts, or set to operate the first sixteen shafts to weave the cloth and the remaining twelve shafts to produce a name list or
selvedge. The word "selvedge" is derived from
self-edge, the edge of the cloth where the
weft is turned back as it returns through the shed. The selvedge would often have a brand name or the country of origin woven into it. On the left side of the
loom is the patent four-shuttle drop box motion incorporating a foot pedal. This is part of an escape mechanism in case the shuttle becomes trapped. ==Outside==