As with many recipes, the origins of the dish and its name are obscure; most Italian sources trace its origin to the region of
Lazio. The name first appears in print in a 1939
Dutch East Indies newspaper (
De Koerier), which mentions a restaurant in the
Trastevere region of Rome that was known for a dish by that name, but does not describe the dish itself. In 1950, the Italian newspaper said that American officers had been seeking out "spaghetti alla carbonara" in Trastevere restaurants for years, but similarly didn't describe it. The first attested recipe is in an illustrated cookbook published in Chicago in 1952 by Patricia Bronté. It should also be noted that a major Italian cookbook published in 1950, ''
Il cucchiaio d'argento'', has no mention of this dish. In 1954, the first recipe for carbonara published in Italy appeared in magazine, although the recipe featured
pancetta,
garlic, and
Gruyère cheese. The same year, carbonara was included in
Elizabeth David's
Italian Food, an English-language cookbook published in Great Britain.
Etymology There are many theories for the origin of the name , which probably did not coincide with the creation of than the dish itself: • John F. Mariani writes that some people believe it was created as a tribute to the
Carbonari () secret society prominent in the early, repressed stages of
Italian unification () in the early 19th century.
Pre-WW2 theory of origin The dish forms part of a family of dishes consisting of pasta with cured pork, cheese, and pepper, one of which is . It is very similar to , a dish dressed with melted
lard and a mixture of eggs and cheese, but not meat or pepper.
WW2 theory of origin A review of the history of carbonara's appearance in cookbooks and other forms of media (see above) supports a post-World War II origin of this dish after the Allied liberation of Rome in 1944. According to the interviews and research into historical documents by Eleonora Cozzella, the dish was born out of a dish called "spaghetti breakfast" that would be requested by Allied personnel when they visit Italian cookeries: a kind of bacon and eggs served on top of spaghetti.
Evolution after creation As mentioned above, carbonara was first described in a 1952 cookbook about food being made in Chicago. Cesari writes that the recipe was probably brought to the United States by an American serviceman who had passed through Rome during the
Italian campaign or by an
Italian American who had encountered it in Rome, The version of the dish found in the 1954
La Cucina Italiana slowly evolved into the "canonical" carbonara of today. Pecorino and guanciale slowly made their way into carbonara recipes in the late 1950s and the 1960s. Recipes from that time still featured cream: in fact, the widespread removal of cream only happened in the 1990s. Grandi and Cesari comment that the removal of ingredients appear to be motivated by a wish to have the dish fit better with the "idyllic Italian stereotype of the rustic kitchen". ==Preparation==