The technique of adding sugar to grape
must has been part of the process of winemaking since the
Romans added
honey as a sweetening agent. While not realizing the chemical components, Roman winemakers were able to identify the benefits of added sense of
body or
mouthfeel. While the process has long been associated with French wine, the first recorded mention of adding sugar to must in French literature was the 1765 edition of ''
L'Encyclopedie'', which advocated the use of sugar for sweetening wine over the previously accepted practice of using
lead acetate. In 1777, the French chemist
Pierre Macquer discovered that the actual chemical benefit of adding sugar to must was an increase in alcohol to balance the high acidity of
underripe grapes rather than any perceived increase in sweetness. In 1801, while in the services of
Napoleon, Jean-Antoine-Claude Chaptal began advocating the technique as a means of strengthening and preserving wine. In the 1840s, the
German wine industry was hard hit by severe weather that created considerable difficulty for harvesting ripened grapes in this cool region. A chemist named
Ludwig Gall suggested Chaptal's method of adding sugar to the must to help wine makers compensate for the effects of detrimental weather. This process of
Verbesserung (improvement) helped sustain wine production in the
Mosel region during this difficult period. At the turn of the twentieth century, the process became controversial in the French wine industry with
vignerons in the
Languedoc protesting the production of "artificial wines" that flooded the French wine market and drove down prices. In June 1907, huge demonstrations broke out across the Languedoc region with over 900,000 protesters demanding that the government take action to protect their livelihood. Riots in the city of
Narbonne prompted Prime Minister
Georges Clemenceau to send the
French army to the city. The ensuing clash resulted in the death of five protesters. The following day, Languedoc sympathizers burned the
prefecture in
Perpignan. In response to the protests, the French government increased the taxation on sugar and passed laws limiting the amount of sugar that could be added to wine. ==Process variations==