Food historians do not agree on the history and composition of chef's salad. Some trace it to
salmagundi, a popular meat and salad dish originating in 17th-century England and popular in colonial America. Others contend chef's salad is a product of the early twentieth century, originating in either New York or California. The person most often connected with the history of this salad is
Louis Diat, chef of the
Ritz-Carlton in New York City during the 1940s. While food historians acknowledge his recipe, they do not appear to be convinced he originated the dish, which is more popularly attributed to either
chef Victor Seydoux at the Hotel Buffalo, a
Statler Hotel in
Buffalo, New York or to chef
Jacques Roser at the
Statler Hotel in
Buffalo, New York and later at the
Hotel Pennsylvania in
New York City. Roser worked in various culinary positions in
Paris before being invited in 1922 to become head chef at the Statler Buffalo Hotel, where he first named his meat-based salad a "Cook's Salad". Roser joined the prestigious Hotel Pennsylvania around 1926, where he worked for over fifteen years. Around 1928, he renamed the salad a "Chef's Salad" Seydoux first learned his craft in
Montreux,
Switzerland, and continued his studies in
France and
England before coming to work in the
United States. Seydoux's first experiences in the U.S. included positions at the
Waldorf-Astoria Hotel and the Ritz-Carlton. Alice Rose Seydoux, widow of Victor, claims that the salad was officially launched at the Hotel Buffalo. When the customers started requesting the off-menu salad made with cuts of meat, cheese and hard boiled eggs, the hotel decided to add it to the menu. Giving chef Seydoux the honor of naming the salad he is purported to have said "Well, it's really a chef's salad." The chef salad probably owes much of its popularity to Louis Diat, chef at the Ritz-Carlton.
Cooking a la Ritz includes Diat's recipe, which includes a base of chopped lettuce topped with
julienned boiled chicken,
smoked ox tongue and smoked ham, then garnished with hard-cooked egg halves and
watercress, all dressed with
French Dressing. The inclusion of this salad on the menu at the Ritz-Carlton would have introduced the salad to more of the public. It is possible that the inclusion of
Thousand Island dressing is also linked to the Ritz, since the hotel also introduced the dressing to
New York City. Several other early chef salad recipes mention crumbling
Roquefort cheese over the salad. The first known printed recipe dates to 1936 and includes many ingredients found in later recipes, but no meat. A 1926 recipe already includes the garlic-rubbed
salad bowl. In a note following the recipe, the author recounts the following story: :While passing through a kitchen one day, I found the above mixture in huge bowl in the center of the chef's table, and being friendly to salads as well as cooks, I requested a sample and was served very liberally. The salad was delicious; in fact it was a sort of master composition and deserving of an appropriate name. As nothing but the best of everything enters into the food materials supplied to chef's table, the salad was born and named Cooks Salad." I have been more or less successful in ordering this particular salad; but if I wish to get this
salmagundy right I order it from the chef's table and not the salad pantry. The chef's salad bowl is generally rubbed with garlic."
Menu History (see photos) "Cook's Salad" appears on a Statler Hotel Buffalo carte du jour menu dated December 1926. "Cook's Salad" appears on a Statler Hotel Buffalo dinner menu dated July 1928. "Chef's Salad" appears on a Hotel Pennsylvania (NYC) dinner menu dated September 1929. ==See also==