Aboriginal history Guugu Yimithirr (also known as Koko Yindjir, Gugu Yimidhirr, Guguyimidjir) is an
Australian Aboriginal language of
Hope Vale and the Cooktown area. The language region includes the local government area of the
Aboriginal Shire of Hope Vale and the
Shire of Cook, particularly the localities of
Cape Bedford, Battle Camp and sections of the
Normanby River and
Annan River. In the local Guugu Yimithirr language the name for the region is
Gangaar , which means "(Place of the) Rock Crystals". Quartz crystals were used in various
Aboriginal ceremonies across the continent and are found in the vicinity; they were traded from the Cooktown region at least as far as south.
Yalanji (also known as
Kuku Yalanji,
Kuku Yalaja,
Kuku Yelandji, and
Gugu Yalanji) is an
Australian Aboriginal language of
Far North Queensland. The traditional language region is
Mossman River in the south to the
Annan River in the north, bordered by the
Pacific Ocean in the east and extending inland to west of
Mount Mulgrave. This includes the local government boundaries of the
Shire of Douglas, the
Shire of Cook and the
Aboriginal Shire of Wujal Wujal and the towns and localities of Cooktown,
Mossman,
Daintree,
Cape Tribulation and
Wujal Wujal. It includes the head of the
Palmer River, the
Bloomfield River,
China Camp,
Maytown, and
Palmerville.
Arrival of Captain Cook sailing into Cooktown's harbour near the mouth of the
Endeavour River where the original
Endeavour was beached for 7 weeks in 1770.|left The site of modern Cooktown was the meeting place of two vastly different cultures when, in June 1770, the local Aboriginal
Guugu Yimithirr tribe cautiously watched the crippled
sailing ship – His Majesty's Bark
Endeavour – limp up the coast seeking a safe
harbour after sustaining serious damage to its wooden hull on the Endeavour Reef, south of Cooktown. The Guugu Yimithirr people saw the
Endeavour beach in the calm waters near the mouth of their river, which they called "Wahalumbaal". The captain of the Endeavour,
Lieutenant James Cook, wrote: "... it was happy for us that a place of refuge was at hand; for we soon found that the ship would not work, and it is remarkable that in the whole course of our voyage we had seen no place that our present circumstances could have afforded us the same relief". The Endeavour crew spent seven weeks on the site of present-day Cooktown, repairing their ship, replenishing food and water supplies, and caring for their sick. Commander, H.M.B. "Endeavour" which was beached and repaired near this site 17 June – 4 August 1770|leftThe scientist
Joseph Banks and Swedish
naturalist Daniel Solander, who accompanied Cook on the expedition, took advantage of the 7-week stay to collect, preserve and document over 200 new species of plants, which formed the vast majority of the collection brought back to England from Australia. The young artist
Sydney Parkinson illustrated the specimens and he was the first British artist to portray Aboriginal people from direct observation. The illustrations were later published as the famous ''
Banks' Florilegium''. After some weeks, Joseph Banks met and spoke with the local people, recording about 50
Guugu Yimithirr words, including the name of the intriguing animal the natives called
gangurru (which he transcribed as "Kangaru"). Cook recorded the local name as "Kangooroo, or Kanguru". The first recorded sighting of kangaroos by Europeans was on Grassy Hill, which rises above the place where the ship was beached. Cook climbed this hill to work out a safe passage for the Endeavour to sail through the surrounding reefs, after it was repaired. "The visit on the 19th of July 1770 ended in a skirmish after Cook refused to share the turtles he kept on the Endeavour with the local inhabitants. They set fire to the grass around Cook’s camp twice, burning the area and killing a suckling pig. After Cook wounded one of the men with a musket, they ran away. Cook, Banks and some others followed them and caught up with them on a rocky bar near Furneaux Street, which is now known as Reconciliation Rocks. A "little old man" appeared from the group of Indigenous Australians and they were reconciled. This was an important historic event as it is believed that this is the first recorded reconciliation between Europeans and
Indigenous Australians ever". Cook named the river the "Endeavour" after his ship, and, as they sailed north, he hoisted the flag known as the "
Queen Anne Jack" and claimed possession of the whole eastern coast of Australia for Britain. He named
Cape York Peninsula after the then-
Duke of York and Albany ("
The Grand Old Duke of York"). :"In 1886 the people of Cooktown were anxious to recover the brass guns of the Endeavour which were thrown overboard, in order to place them as a memento in their town; but they could not be found, which is not altogether surprising." In 1969 an American-sponsored expedition discovered six of Cook's iron cannons, as well as iron ballast from his ship using a magnetometer. These artifacts are now in various museums around the world.
Expedition of Phillip Parker King The next recorded European expedition to the area was in 1819, when Captain
Phillip Parker King on board
HMS Mermaid, visited the Endeavour River during his surveying voyage around Australia. They camped for two weeks at the mouth of the river in order to construct a new dinghy, and had mostly friendly interactions with the local Aboriginal people until an argument occurred over the possession of clothes. Spears and musket-fire were exchanged but no injuries were sustained. A botanist,
Allan Cunningham, accompanied King on this journey and collected numerous botanical specimens for the
British Museum and
Kew Gardens. King returned again to the region in 1820 as part of the same surveying expedition and this time collated a small record of the local Aboriginal language. He established that Captain Cook was incorrect in the interpretation of the word
kangaroo, with King noting that
menuah was the local name for the large
macropod. Large
outrigger canoes made by the resident Aboriginal people were also noted.
Port for the Palmer River Goldfields In 1872,
William Hann discovered gold in the
Palmer River, about inland from the Endeavour River. His findings were reported to
James Venture Mulligan who led an expedition to the Palmer River in 1873. Mulligan's expedition found quantities of alluvial gold and thus began the
gold rush that was to bring prospectors from all over the world. The Queensland government responded quickly to Mulligan's reports, and dispatched Archibald Campbell MacMillan to lead a party in establishing a port on the Endeavour River and a road from there to the goldfields. MacMillan arrived at the river on 25 October 1873 on board the vessel
Leichhardt with an entourage of around seventy other government men and prospectors. A new township was immediately established on the southern bank of the river which was later officially gazetted under the name of Cooktown. A local Aboriginal man who took a surveying flag while the area was being initially charted was shot at with a barrage of gunfire from both colonists aboard the
Leichhardt and from
Native Police under the command of
Robert Arthur Johnstone. The man managed to survive unharmed. MacMillan soon after led an expedition of 110 diggers, police and officials to blaze a trail from Cooktown to the
Palmer River Goldfields. They "shot a lot" and "hunted" Aboriginal people along the way at the
Normanby River, Kennedy River, Kavanaugh Creek, St George River and at Battle Camp. At Battle Camp, a large group of Aboriginal men approached MacMillan's camp yelling a war cry, but were forced back by gunfire, some of whom fell. The expedition members then pursued them to a lagoon where many more were shot. Two Aboriginal women and three children were brought back to the camp by the diggers after one of the shootings, where they had in their possession a number of items from a digger who was supposed killed. A later government enquiry into the events found that the expedition members had acted in self defence and were justified in their actions. The
Palmer River Goldfields and its centre,
Maytown grew quickly, the recorded output of gold from 1873 to 1890 was over . Cooktown was the port through which this gold was exported and supplies for the goldfields brought in. Word of the gold quickly spread, and Cooktown was soon thriving, as
prospectors arrived from around the world. Cooktown Post Office opened on 1 January 1874.
Township of Cooktown Population estimates vary widely, but there were probably around 7,000 people in the area and about 4,000 permanent residents in the town by 1880. At that time, Cooktown boasted a large number of hotels and guest houses. There were 47 licensed pubs within the town boundaries in 1874 although this number had dropped to 27 by the beginning of 1880. There were also a number of illegal
grog shops and several brothels. There were bakeries, a brewery and a soft drinks factory, dressmakers and milliners, a brickworks, a cabinetmaker, and two newspapers. The port of Cooktown served the nearby goldfields and, during the goldrush of the 1870s, a Chinese community many thousands strong grew up in the goldfields and in the town itself. The Chinese played an important role in the early days of Cooktown. They came originally as prospectors, but many established market gardens, supplying the town and the goldfields with fruit, vegetables and rice, while others opened shops. However, largely through cultural misunderstandings, conflict broke out between the Aboriginal people and the new settlers, and the diggers.
The Cooktown Herald, 8 December 1875, reported: "The natives wholly ignorant of the terrible firepower of fire-arms, and confiding in their numbers, showed a ferocity and daring wholly unexpected and unsurpassed. Grasping the very muzzles of the rifles they attempted to wrest them from the hands of the whites, standing to be shot down, rather than yield an inch...." It was an unequal struggle. Whole tribes were wiped out as European settlement spread over
Cape York Peninsula. In 1887, a Chinese Investigation Commission to South-East Asia arrived in Cooktown from
Canton to investigate the social conditions of Chinese living in the colonies and to establish consulates in them. The visit went well, General Wong Yung Ho was pleased with what they had found, and cheers were exchanged between the Commission members and local residents as they left on 7 August 1887. Transport was an ongoing problem for the new settlers. Getting supplies and people to the goldfields often took three weeks. After every
wet season the tracks and bridges had to be remade. A railway line from Cooktown to
Maytown, was planned, but it took five years to get the to
Laura – and that is where it stopped. By that time the gold was petering out, so the Queensland Government refused further funding for the venture. In spite of this, the train proved to be a lifeline for the Peninsula people connecting the hinterland to Cooktown, from where one could catch a boat to
Cairns and other southern ports. The line was closed in 1961 after the Peninsula Development Road was built connecting Cooktown and other Peninsula communities with Cairns and the
Atherton Tableland to the south. The Cooktown Parish of the Roman Catholic Church was established in 1874 with the Cooktown becoming the seat of the
Vicariate Apostolic of Cooktown in 1877 (which became the Diocese of Cairns in 1941). Cooktown State School opened on 25 January 1875. On 19 January 1885, it was split into Cooktown Boys State School and Cooktown Girls and Infants State School. In January 1921, the two schools were amalgamated to become Cooktown State School again. Cooktown's magnificent Botanic Garden of was established near the town in 1878. Much work was done in the early stages – with wells sunk, water reticulated, garden beds enclosed, stone-lined paths, stone-pitched pools and footbridges made, and lawns, trees and shrubs planted. Although the gardens fell into disrepair, in recent years they have been expanded and are a popular destination for botanists and nature lovers. Most of the early stonework has been restored, and beautiful walking tracks lead the visitor through the Botanic Garden to the magnificent beaches at Finch Bay and Cherry Tree Bay. In 1881, a bridge over the
Endeavour River was completed, which opened up the richer pastoral lands of the Endeavour and McIvor River valleys.
Tin was found in the Annan River area, south of Cooktown, in 1884. In 1886, Lutheran missionaries came to Cooktown to establish a secure place for the Aboriginal people who were living in abominable conditions on the edge of the town. Missions were established at Elim on the beach (later they moved inland to
Hopevale), and
Wujal Wujal, near the mouth of the Bloomfield River. Also in 1888, five
Irish nuns from the
Sisters of Mercy Order arrived in Cooktown and established a Catholic convent school. The original building is now used as the
Cooktown Museum (formerly the James Cook Historical Museum). In 1893 the town was described as follows: :"Cooktown, which now stands on the Endeavour River, is a thriving place, and the northernmost town on this coast. It has some 2000 inhabitants, and is the port for a gold mining district. A deeper channel has now been dredged over the bar that gave Cook so much trouble, but it is not a harbour that will admit large vessels."
World War II By 1940, little evidence of Cooktown or Maytown's interesting past remained. During the
Second World War, Cooktown became an important base for the war effort. The civilian population of Cooktown was encouraged to evacuate in face of the Japanese advances and by 1942 the vast majority had left. The Aboriginal people of the Lutheran missions at Hope Vale and Bloomfield were forcibly removed – most being taken south to
Woorabinda in May, 1942, while some of the elderly people were sent to
Palm Island. The senior missionary, Pastor Schwartz (known as Muni to the local people), was arrested and placed in internment, suspected of being an enemy sympathiser. The Aboriginal people were not allowed to return to their homelands until 1949. Many Aboriginal people died when moved from their traditional lands, and many Aboriginal and white families never returned from their exile. In October 1942 detachments of 16 Australian Field Company,
Royal Australian Engineers travelled to Cooktown,
Mount Surprise and
Coen to build Repeater Huts. Some 20,000 Australian and American troops were stationed in and around the town. The busy airfield played a key role in the crucial
Battle of the Coral Sea when Japanese expansion towards the Australian mainland was finally halted. The last military unit, the 27th Operational Base Squadron of the
RAAF, ceased operations in Cooktown in April 1946.
Since World War II ,
Cooktownia robertsii, first recorded and also illustrated by
Lewis Roberts (naturalist), and named after both him and Cooktown In 1949, another cyclone devastated the town, and Cooktown's population declined further. With the closure of the rail link to
Laura in 1961 and the "Peninsula Development Road" opened up to the south, the population declined to just a few hundred people before it gradually began to climb again. Since then, Cooktown and the Endeavour River Valley area have become a major attraction to biologists and illustrators of plants and animals.
Vera Scarth-Johnson (1912–1999), spent almost thirty years (1972 to 1999) illustrating the flowering plants of the region and then gave her collection to the people of Cooktown. Following her wishes, a beautiful gallery and nature interpretive centre was built in the Cooktown Botanic Gardens to house her collection and promote the study and appreciation of the flora and fauna of the area, which she named "Nature's Powerhouse."
21st century Endeavour Christian College opened in 2012 to provide an alternative Christian school. In 2015, the
Roman Catholic Diocese of Cairns opened the Holy Spirit College as a secondary school for disengaged and marginalised young people. It has with two campuses, one in Cooktown and one in
Cairns. The school draws students from a wide area. The Cooktown campus includes a 32-bed boarding facility to offer weekly boarding so that students can return to their families and communities on the weekends. == Demographics ==