In the mid-16th century Manchester was an important manufacturing centre for wool and Leigh and south towards Manchester, used
flax and raw cotton imported along the
Mersey and Irwell Navigation.
Key inventions During the Industrial Revolution cotton manufacture changed from a
domestic to a mechanised industry, made possible by inventions and advances in technology. The
weaving process was the first to be mechanised by the invention of
John Kay's
flying shuttle in 1733. The manually operated
spinning jenny was developed by
James Hargreaves in about 1764, and speeded up the
spinning process. The roller spinning principle of Paul and Bourne became the basis of
Richard Arkwright's
spinning frame and
water frame, patented in 1769. The principles of the spinning jenny and water frame were combined by
Samuel Crompton in his
spinning mule of 1779, but water power was not applied to it until 1792. Many mills were built after Arkwright's patent expired in 1783 and, by 1788, there were about 210 mills in Great Britain. The development of cotton mills was linked to the development of the machinery they contained. By 1774, 30,000 people in Manchester were employed using the domestic system in cotton manufacture.
Handloom weaving lingered into the mid-19th century but cotton spinning in mills relying on water power and subsequently steam power using fuel from the
Lancashire Coalfield began to develop before 1800. Many more people were employed by the mills.
Successful modern first mills Paul-Wyatt mills in
Northampton, pictured in 1746 – the earliest known pictorial representation of a cotton mill The first cotton mills were established in the 1740s to house
roller spinning machinery invented by
Lewis Paul and
John Wyatt. The machines were the first to spin cotton mechanically "without the intervention of human fingers". They were driven by a single non-human power source which allowed the use of larger machinery and made it possible to concentrate production into organised
factories. Four mills were set up to house Paul and Wyatt's machinery in the decade following its patent in 1738: the short-lived, animal-powered
Upper Priory Cotton Mill in
Birmingham in 1741;
Marvel's Mill in
Northampton operated from 1742 until 1764 and was the first to be powered by a
water wheel;
Pinsley Mill in
Leominster probably opened in 1744 and operated until it burned down in 1754; and a second mill in Birmingham set up by
Samuel Touchet in 1744, about which little is known, but which was sufficiently successful for Touchet later to seek the lease on the mill in Northampton. The Paul-Wyatt mills spun cotton for several decades but were not very profitable, becoming the ancestors of the cotton mills that followed.
Arkwright-type mills 's first 1771
Cromford Mill in
Derbyshire, with three of its original five storeys remaining
Richard Arkwright obtained a
patent for his
water frame spinning machinery in 1769. Although its technology was similar to that of
Lewis Paul,
John Wyatt,
James Hargreaves and
Thomas Highs, Arkwright's powers of organisation, business acumen and ambition established the cotton mill as a successful business model and revolutionary example of the
factory system. Arkwright's first mill – powered by horses in Nottingham in 1768 – was similar to Paul and Wyatt's
first Birmingham mill although by 1772 it had expanded to four storeys and employed 300 workers. In 1771, while the Nottingham mill was at an experimental stage, Arkwright and his partners started work on
Cromford Mill in Derbyshire, which "was to prove a major turning point in the history of the factory system". It resembled the
Paul-Wyatt water-powered mill at Northampton in many respects, but was built on a different scale, influenced by
John Lombe's
Old Silk Mill in
Derby and
Matthew Boulton's
Soho Manufactory in Birmingham. Constructed as a five-storey masonry box; high, long and narrow, with ranges of windows along each side and large relatively unbroken internal spaces, it provided the basic architectural prototype that was followed by cotton mills and English industrial architecture through to the end of the 19th century. Arkwright recruited large, highly disciplined workforces for his mills, managed credit and supplies and cultivated mass consumer markets for his products. By 1782 his annual profits exceeded £40,000, and by 1784 he had opened 10 more mills. He licensed his technology to other entrepreneurs and in 1782 boasted that his machinery was being used by "numbers of adventurers residing in the different counties of Derby, Leicester, Nottingham, Worcester, Stafford, York, Hertford and Lancashire" and by 1788 there were 143 Arkwright-type mills nationwide. The early mills were of light construction, narrow – about wide – and low in height, with ceiling heights of only 6–8 ft. The mills were powered by water wheels and lit by daylight. Mills were made by
millwrights, builders and
iron founders. By the end of the 18th century there were about 900 cotton mills in Britain, of which approximately 300 were large Arkwright-type factories employing 300 to 400 workers, the rest, smaller mills using
jennies or
mules, were hand- or horse-driven and employed as few as 10 workers.
Early steam mills , built as a steam-powered mill in
Ancoats in 1798, is the oldest surviving cotton mill in
Manchester. Before 1780, only water power was available to drive large mills, but they were dependent on a constant flow of water and built in rural locations, causing problems of labour supply, transportation of materials and access to urban merchants for large mill-owners.
Steam engines had been used to pump water since the invention of the
atmospheric engine by
Thomas Newcomen in 1712 and, starting with the engine installed at Arkwright's
Haarlem Mill in
Wirksworth, Derbyshire in 1780, were used to supplement the supply of water to the water wheels of cotton mills. In 1781
James Watt registered a patent for the first
rotative steam engine designed to "give motion to the wheels of mills or other machines". Concerns remained over the smoothness of the power supplied by a steam engine to cotton mills, where the regularity of the yarn produced was dependent on the regularity of the power supply, and it was not until 1785 at
Papplewick, in Robinson's Mill near Nottingham that a steam engine was successfully used to drive a cotton mill directly.
Boulton and Watt's engines enabled mills to be built in urban contexts and transformed the economy of Manchester, whose importance had previously been as a centre of pre-industrial spinning and weaving based on the domestic system. Water continued to be used to drive rural mills but mills, driven by steam, were built in towns alongside streams or canals to provide water for the engine.
Murrays' Mills alongside the
Rochdale Canal, in
Ancoats were powered by 40 hp Boulton and Watt
beam engines. Some were built as room and power mills, which let space to entrepreneurs. The mills, often 'L' or U-shaped, were narrow and multi-storeyed. The engine house, warehousing and the office were inside the mill, although stair towers were external. Windows were square and smaller than in later mills. The walls were of unadorned rough brick. Construction was sometimes to fireproof designs. The mills are distinguished from warehouses in that warehouses had taking-in doors on each storey with an external hoist beam. Only the larger mills have survived. Mills of this period were from 25 to 68 m long and 11.5 m to 14 m wide. They could be eight stories high and had basements and attics. Floor height varied from 3.3 to 2.75 m on the upper stories.
Boilers were of the wagon type; chimneys were square or rectangular, attached to the mill, and in some cases part of the stair column. The steam engines were typically low-pressure single-cylinder condensing beam engines. The average power in 1835 was 48 hp. Power was transmitted by a main vertical shaft with bevel gears to the horizontal shafts. The later mills had gas lighting using gas produced on site. The
mules with 250–350 spindles were placed transversely to get as much light as possible.
Early weaving mills The development of mills to mechanise the
weaving process was more gradual partly because of the success of
John Kay's 1733 invention of the
flying shuttle, which increased the productivity of domestic
hand loom weavers. Kay took out a patent for the application of water power to a Dutch loom in 1745 and opened a weaving factory in
Keighley in 1750, but nothing is known of its success. A further attempt to mechanise the weaving process took place at Garrett Hall in Manchester in 1750 but was unsuccessful in enabling one worker to operate more than a single loom. The first feasible
power loom was patented by
Edmund Cartwright in 1785, although it was initially a primitive device it established the basic principle that would be used in powered weaving until the 20th century. In 1788 Cartwright opened
Revolution Mill in
Doncaster which was powered by a Boulton and Watt steam engine and had 108 power looms on three floors as well as spinning machinery, but it was not a commercial success and closed in 1790. A second mill using Cartwright's machinery, opened in
Manchester in 1790 but was burned to the ground by hand loom weavers within two years. By 1803 there were only 2,400 power looms operating in Britain.
Early American mills in
Pawtucket, Rhode Island, built in 1790 In the United States, the early horse-powered
Beverly Cotton Manufactory was designed by
Thomas Somers, who started construction and testing of the facility in 1787, finishing the factory's equipment in 1788. Experience from this factory led
Moses Brown of Providence to request the assistance of a person skilled in water-powered spinning.
Samuel Slater, an immigrant and trained textile worker from England, accepted Brown's proposal, and assisted with the design and construction of
Slater Mill, built in 1790 on the
Blackstone River in
Pawtucket, Rhode Island. Slater evaded restrictions on emigration put in place to allow England to maintain its monopoly on cotton mills. Slater Mill resembled the Beverly Cotton Manufactory and a mill in Derbyshire in which he had worked.
Remodelling and expansion (1815–1855) United Kingdom From 1825 the steam engine was able to power larger machines constructed from iron using improved machine tools. Mills from 1825 to 1865 were generally constructed with wooden beamed floors and lath and plaster ceilings.
William Fairbairn experimented with cast iron beams and concrete floors. Mills were of red brick or sometimes local stone with a greater attention to decoration and the main gate was often highlighted with stone decoration. The stair columns were exterior to the main floors. During this period the mules got wider and the width of the bays increased. Specialised mill architects appeared. 's Lancashire boiler Mills of this period were tall, narrow, and wide. They were commonly built with one or two wings to form an 'L' or 'U' shape. Brunswick Mill was a 28-bay mill, 6 storeys of 16 m by 92 m. Each self-acting
spinning mule had 500 spindles. and specialised weaving mills became common. They were single-storey sheds with an engine house and offices, and preparation and warehousing in a two-storey ancillary building. Large mills remained the exception during this period. In 1833 the largest mill was that of
McConnel and Company in
Ancoats, Manchester with 1,545 workers, but in 1841 there were still only 25 mills in Lancashire with 1,000 workers or more, and the number of workers in the average mill was 193. The
Lancashire boiler was patented in 1844, and the
economiser in 1845. This can be seen as a square brick structure between the boiler house and the chimney. The engines were double compound upright beam engines of the type patented by McNaught in 1845. Each room in the mill would have line shafts suitable for the type of frame, connected by belt drives or gearing. In 1860, there were 2650 cotton mills in the Lancashire region, employing 440,000 people. The workers, 90 per cent of whom were adults and 56 per cent females, were paid a total of £11.5 million per annum. The mills used 300,000 hp of power, of which 18,500 was generated by waterpower. The mills had 30,387,467
spindles and 350,000
power looms. The industry imported 1,390,938,752 lb of raw cotton a year. It exported 2,776,218,427 yards of cotton cloth and of twist and yarn. The total value of its exports was £32,012,380. 1860 saw the end of this period of rapid growth. The
Cotton Famine of 1861–1865 was a period when American long staple cotton became unavailable due to an
American Civil War. After the war, the economics of the industry had changed, and a new larger mill was required.
United States In 1814 the
Boston Manufacturing Company of
New England established a "fully integrated" mill on the
Charles River at
Waltham, Massachusetts. Despite the ban on exporting technology from the UK, one of its proprietors,
Francis Cabot Lowell, had travelled to Manchester to study the mill system and memorised some of its details. In the same year,
Paul Moody built the first successful power loom in the US. Moody used a system of overhead pulleys and leather belting, rather than bevel gearing, to power his machines. The group devised the
Waltham System of working, which was duplicated at
Lowell, Massachusetts and several other new cities throughout the state. Mill girls, some as young as ten, were paid less than men, but received a fixed wage for their 73-hour week. They lived in company-owned boarding houses, and attended churches supported by the companies. In the 1840s
George Henry Corliss of
Providence, Rhode Island improved the reliability of
stationary steam engines. He replaced
slide valves with valves that used cams. These
Corliss valves were more efficient and more reliable than their predecessors. Initially, steam engines pumped water into a nearby reservoir that powered the water wheel, but were later used as the mill's primary power source. The Corliss valve was adopted in the UK, where in 1868 more than 60 mill engines were fitted with them.
India The large steam-powered Bowreath Cotton Mills opened at Fort Gloster near
Calcutta by British interests in the 1820s, using British women to impart machine-spinning skills to the local workforce. They closed down in 1837 but reopened with
Dwarkanath Tagore as a major shareholder, and by 1840 lay at the centre of a major industrial complex powered by five steam engines, that included a twist mill, foundry and a rum distillery.
Golden Age (1855–1898) United Kingdom Just before 1870, a mill was built by a joint-stock spinning company and this financial structure led to a new wave of mill construction. The phrase
Oldham Limiteds describes these companies. Family-run firms continued to build, but grouped into associations such as the
Fine Spinners' and Doublers' Association. Joseph
Stott of Oldham perfected a method of fireproof floor construction using steel beams supporting brick vaults that in turn supported concrete floors that would support heavier equipment. Ring frames replaced mule frames; they were heavier and larger and were placed transversely, the floors became larger (up to wide) and higher to provide light. The bay size in a mill was defined by the positioning of machines. In an 1870 mill the bay was typically , and the brick vaults though there were variations. Engines were run at higher pressures and from 1875, powered horizontal shafts on each floor by means of ropes. This was a prominent change as a rope race had to be built running the height of the mill. The engine needed more space and the engine house, boiler house and economiser were external to the main mill. Mills continued to get bigger, and were sometimes paired; two mills being driven by one engine. Another change was the trend of having carding on one floor. To achieve this, the ground floor was extended outwards behind the mill often a full mill width. In a single mill, the crosswall divided the blowing room from the rest, as it was here that there was greatest risk of fire. Mills became wider,
Houldsworth Mill, Reddish (1865) was 35 m wide and accommodated 1200 spindle mules. It was of four storeys and had sixteen bays on each side of a central engine house; a
double mill. The central block provided offices and warehousing. A mill had a range of ancillary buildings. The power needed and provided to drive these mills was increasing.
Beam engines were installed until the 1870s when horizontal engines took over. Abbey Mill Oldham (1876) needed 700 hp, Nile Mill (1896) needed 2500 hp. By the 1890, boilers produced 160 psi, and the
triple expansion horizontals became standard. Chimneys were octagonal.
United States ,
Georgia Following the
American Civil War, cotton mills were built in the southern states of
South Carolina,
Alabama, and
Mississippi. These mills grew larger as cheap labour and plentiful water power made operations profitable, which meant that the cotton could be processed into fabric where it grew, saving transportation costs. The mills were usually combination mills (spinning and weaving), that were water powered and used a slow burn design technique. They used a belt and pulley drive system, and heavier ring frames rather than mules. At this point they only spun and wove coarse counts. The mills were mainly in open country and
mill towns were formed to support them.
New England mills found it increasingly difficult to compete, and as in Lancashire, went into gradual decline until
bankrupted during the
Great Depression. Cotton mills and their owners dominated the economy and politics of the
Piedmont well into the 20th century.
Asia s carrying baskets of cotton from huge dump to the mills;
Indore, the cotton district of India, c. 1900 The modern
Indian mechanised textile industry was born in 1854, when a steam-powered mill was opened in
Bombay by Cowasjee N. Davar. More followed: there were 10 by 1865 and 47 by 1875. By 1880 there were 58 mills in India employing 40,000 workers, with over 80% of them in the cities of Bombay and
Ahmedabad. From the 1870's India's own markets for finished yarn and cloth ceased to be dominated by imports from
Lancashire, and during the 1870's and 1880 s the Bombay cotton industry began to replace exports of yarn from Britain to
China.
Edwardian mills (1898–1914) The cotton industry was subject to cycles of boom and slump, which caused waves of mill building. There was an optimism that dictated that slumps had to be endured and then there would be a period of even greater prosperity. The limited companies took control of spinning, while the room and power system was the norm for the weaving sheds. One point of view in the 1880s was that vertically integrating the weaving sheds into new mills would reduce costs and lead to greater profits. This route had been followed in New England, where it was successful, but not in Lancashire. The industry peaked in 1907. There was a severe slump in 1908, which endured until 1918, but the years 1919 and 1920 were more profitable than the peak year of 1907 had been.
United Kingdom , in
Reddish, was a large double mill built in 1906. Production peaked in 1912. The
First World War of 1914–1918 put the Lancashire industry into reverse. The British government, starved of raw cotton, established mills in south Asia exporting the spinning technology – which was copied, and became a low-labour cost competitor. In Germany, Flanders and Brazil, mills were built to the designs of the
Oldham architects. The only new mills were very large to benefit from the economies of scale. Older mills were re-equipped with rings, and machines were powered by individual electric motors. Mills of this period were large, their decoration was lavish reflecting Edwardian taste and prosperity. Most mills were built for mules. Kent Mill Chadderton (1908) was a five-storey, 11 bay mill, 84.6m x 43.9m. It had 90,000 spindles. Ring frames were smaller and heavier than mules so the mills were narrower with fewer storeys. Pear Mill Bredbury (1912) was planned to be a 210,000 spindle double mill. Only the first mill was completed, it had 137,000 spindles. They had more stair columns than earlier mills, it had dust flues often built into the rope race. There were two or three windows per bay. Decoration was often in terracotta and the mill name displayed in white brick on the stair tower or chimney. Stott and Sons employed Byzantine styling in Broadstone Mill, Reddish. Specialist architects built new mills and then created extensions. The last steam-powered mill, Elk Mill, was built by Arthur Turner Mules were built with 1,300 spindles, but were gradually replaced by rings. The increasingly powerful engines required more boilers with economisers and superheaters. Mills needed reservoirs to supply the boilers and condense the steam. The chimneys were round and taller. Three types of engines were used: triple expansion horizontal cross compound engines, Inverted marine type compounds which were more compact, and Manhattans with vertical and horizontal cylinders such as the 3500 hp engine at New Pear Mill. Rope drives were used exclusively. Electricity was gradually introduced firstly on group drives driving a shaft (Little Mill, 1908), and then later on individual machines.
United States Mills constructed in
South Carolina increased in size. At Rutledge Ford the
Saluda River was dammed and a power plant constructed. It was completed in 1904 before the construction of a state-of-the-art
textile mill in 1906. That power plant provided for 4,800 horse power. The mill contained 30,000 spindles. By 1916 a new mill was constructed, containing 70,200 spindles and 1,300 looms. The town was named
Ware Shoals. Between 1904 and 1916, the population of Ware Shoals grew from 2 men employed to maintain the newly constructed power plant, to 2,000. By the 1960s the mill employed 5,000 people. It closed in 1985, due to a surge of textile imports that caused a steep decline in the company's output and earnings.
Consolidation (1918–50) , England Though business revived in 1919, a shortage of building materials restricted the building of new mills, and activity was financial with the mills seeking recapitalisation. There is no clear concession on the reason for the final decline. Some say that the cotton men concentrated on making easy money ignoring the possibility of foreign competition best countered by larger mills by re-equipping the mills with more modern ring frames. Daniels and Jewkes argued the fundamental cause of the depression was a change in demand for cotton goods. J. M. Keynes suggested that there was over capacity, and the industry should be reorganised into larger units that would scrap the excess capacity. The
Lancashire Cotton Corporation was a company set up by the Bank of England in 1929, to rescue the Lancashire spinning industry by means of consolidation. In merged 105 companies, ending up in 1950 with 53 operating mills. These were the later larger mills. It was bought up by Courtaulds in August 1964. The later mills were on the fringe of the spinning area in Wigan and Stockport, Availability of labour was cited as a reason. The last mills were completed in 1927, these were Holden Mill (Astley Bridge Mill) and Elk Mill. In 1929, for the first time there were more spindles in the USA than in the UK. In 1972, India had greater spindleage than the US, and it was in turn surpassed by China in 1977.
Cotton mills in the late 20th century (1950–2000) Decline of spinning in England Though there was a slight revival after 1945, mills closed. The most efficient mills had abandoned their steam engines, and were working the frames with individual electric motors.
Broadstone Mills Stockport, was built as a double mill with 265,000 mule spindles, but by 1959 it was running 37,500 mule spindles and 70,000 ring spindles. It closed in 1959 taking advantage of the
Cotton Industry Act 1959 and was then used by the John Myers mail order company. One mill was later demolished leaving the other to be used as a Shopping Outlet Centre and Craft Village. The reduction of capacity led to a legacy of redundant mills, which were readily reused for other industrial purposes. Ring spinning technology had successfully replaced the spinning mule, with mills having been converted mules to rings. However, in the 1970s, the depleted industry was challenged by a new technology open-end or break spinning. In 1978
Carrington Viyella opened a factory to do open-end spinning in
Atherton. This was the first new textile production facility in Lancashire since 1929. Immediately
Pear Mill, Stockport and Alder Mill, Leigh were closed. These were both Edwardian mills designed by Stott and Sons. The average age of installed rotors is much lower than that of spindles and as rotors are between 7 and 10 times more productive they are responsible for 20% of the cotton spun worldwide. ==Locations==