Court uniform and dress in the United Kingdom

's 1750s court mantua dress, complete with stomacher For women (as for men) court dress originally meant the best and most opulent style of clothing, as worn in fashionable and royal society. A distinctive style can be seen in the dresses and accoutrements worn by courtly ladies in the Elizabethan period, and likewise in subsequent reigns. The Commonwealth put a stop to Court activity – and to opulent display in general; but with the Restoration, the opportunities afforded by attendance at the royal court was taken up all the more zealously by young women of status or aspiration (and their families). '', 1795: note feathers, train and lappets (behind). Fashion (and wealth) continued to dictate what was worn on these occasions; but in the late eighteenth century, a degree of fossilisation began to set in, with the result that women in attendance at royal courts were still, in the early nineteenth century, to be seen in garments with side-hoops, reminiscent of forms of dress fashionable in the mid-1700s. In the 1820s, however, George IV made known his opinion that obsolete side-hooped dresses should no longer be worn; and thereafter fashion began to have more of an impact on the style of dress worn by women at court. Courtly garments, then, can be seen reflecting something of the contemporary fashions of high society, from the expansive skirts and crinolines of the 1850-60s, through the posterior bustles of the 1870s & 80s, right through to the straight gowns of the 1920s. ; headwear includes lappets, tiara and a profusion of feathers. Some details of court dress, though, were more or less invariable (and these set court dress apart from more ordinary forms of evening or day wear in any given period). From the late eighteenth century what was worn at court had been subject to a degree of regulation, and this helped standardise certain features. Most noticeably, court dresses (regardless of style) were expected to have a sizeable train (usually separate from the dress itself). Trains were required to be a minimum of three yards in length; Coloured feathers were not allowed; but 'in deep mourning black feathers may be worn'. By the 1870s 'white veils' were allowed to be worn, as an alternative to lappets. Occasionally these accoutrements were dispensed with: at the coronations of 1821 and 1831, ladies (attending with peers or privy counsellors) were instructed to appear in full Court dresses 'without lappets or trains'. In 1838, all persons seated in the choir of Westminster Abbey not being peers were to wear 'full court dress'; but ladies seated elsewhere in the Abbey could simply wear 'evening dress, without feathers'. (Peeresses wore their robes, and 'Court dresses, without feathers, lappets, or trains'). , wife of Japan's resident minister to the UK Hayashi Tadasu, wearing court dress in 1902. By the end of the nineteenth century, the main occasions at which court dresses were worn were those at which debutantes were presented to the Queen. In the twentieth century (especially following the First World War), occasions for full court dress diminished. It was still required wear for ladies attending the 1937 coronation (albeit without trains and veils - and Peeresses were expected to wear tiaras rather than feathers); but in 1953, ladies attending the coronation were directed to wear 'evening dresses or afternoon dresses, with a light veiling falling from the back of the head. Tiaras may be worn ... no hats'. Court presentations continued, except during wartime, but they gradually became less opulent. In the post-war 1940s evening court events were replaced with afternoon presentations (for which afternoon dresses were worn); and with that, the donning of full court dress ceased to be a rite of passage for young women taking their place in society. == Men's court dress ==

Court dress (as distinguished from court uniform) was worn by all men not entitled to court uniform or military uniform on occasions of state where such were customarily worn. Such occasions are now rare, but formerly they included state balls, evening state parties, courts, drawing rooms and levées. (Courts were evening occasions at which women were formally presented to the monarch, drawing rooms were the daytime equivalent; levées were morning gatherings at which men were presented.) in full parliamentary court dress (2021). It is still worn today, to a limited extent in courts of law and by certain parliamentary, civic and other office-holders; the last time it was worn by people in very significant numbers was at the Coronation in 1953. It consists of a tail-coat with matching waistcoat and breeches, lace cuffs and jabot, silk stockings, buckled shoes, cocked hat, white gloves and a sword. At one time suits of various colours were to be seen, often with gold or silver embroidery; but (as is generally the case with men's formal dress) black is now the predominant colour, and has been since the nineteenth century. The first time strict regulations were issued with regard to men's court dress was in 1666; Origin in 1667. In October 1666 King Charles II published in Council new regulations for the correct form of dress to be worn by gentlemen at Court. Court fashion at that time had grown very extravagant: writing in 1661, John Evelyn described a gentleman walking through Westminster Hall as 'a fine silken thing [...] that had as much ribbon about him as would have plundered six shops and set up twenty country pedlars; all his body was drest like a May-pole, or a Tom o' Bedlam's cap'. According to Samuel Pepys, the King's new sartorial directive was intended 'to teach the nobility thrift, and will do good'. Pepys described the King's new 'vest' as 'a long cassocke close to the body, of black cloth, and pinked with white silke under it, and a coat over it, and the legs ruffled with black riband like a pigeon's leg'. The outfit was worn with a silver-hilted sword. The vest, described by Pepys as being like a 'cassocke', was sleeved and calf-length; the coat worn over it was only slightly shorter. Over time they developed into the waistcoat and tailcoat respectively. Initially they were long and loose fitting, but by the end of the century they were beginning to be closer cut, and hung to just above the knee. Coats were always embroidered, and worn with waistcoats generally of a different colour: gold or silver brocade, damask, silk or satin, heavily embroidered or laced in silver or gold. By the end of the century, though, plainer cloth coats were in fashion, often of a dark colour, though still with embroidery (especially on the waistcoat). In 1795 the king, on his birthday, wore a prune-coloured broad cloth coat and an embroidered white satin waistcoat. 'Frill' referred to the jabot and 'ruffles' to the cuffs. New regulations to a levée in 1870). In 1869, the Lord Chamberlain's Department issued new regulations for gentlemen at Court. These prescribed either a 'Dark coloured Cloth Dress Coat, single breasted, with straight Collar, gold embroidered Collar, Cuffs, and Pocket-flaps, gilt Buttons' (worn with a 'White Waistcoat, without Collar'); or a 'Black silk Velvet Dress Coat of the same shape as described above, with gilt, steel, or plain Buttons' (worn with a 'White Waistcoat, or Black silk Velvet, without Collar, with similar Buttons but of smaller size'). Both types were worn with breeches (for 'Drawing Rooms') or trousers (for Levées) of the same colour and material as the coat (the cloth trousers had a narrow gold stripe on each side). A white neckcloth, black cocked hat, buckled shoes and sword completed the ensemble. The second option represents the first appearance of the 'old style' velvet court dress which is still worn today. when a revised edition was issued in 1898 it bore the additional legend 'collected from official sources with the sanction of the Lord Chamberlain'. 20th century By the time the next edition of Dress worn at Court was published, in 1908, regulations for three different varieties of court dress were included: 'Cloth Court Dress', 'Velvet Court Dress (Old Style)' and a 'Velvet Court Dress (New Style)'. The velvet suits were in black and without embroidery; the cloth court suit ("for Courts and Evening Parties") was to have embroidery, and was to be "mulberry, claret or green - not blue or black". Use in the 21st century In the twenty-first century 'old style' velvet Court Dress has become the distinctive customary garb of male High Sheriffs (while female High Sheriffs often wear outfits inspired by this form of dress). The wearing of this style of Court Dress by High Sheriffs is described as 'a long-established custom' and the High Sheriffs’ Association encourages its use 'to uphold the dignity and recognition of the office during official engagements'. 'New style' velvet Court Dress is also occasionally worn. Forms of court dress are also worn regularly by some civic dignitaries, especially in the City of London. Varieties of cloth court dress continue to be worn by senior legal professionals, and by certain parliamentary and other officials. 'Alternative Court Dress' (with knee-breeches) continues to be worn by the King for the annual Diplomatic Reception at Buckingham Palace. Variations Legal court dress A black cloth court suit was and is worn by judges and King's Counsel, both in court and on ceremonial occasions, underneath the robe or gown. (It is also worn by some parliamentary officials). On ceremonial occasions the full Legal Cloth Court Dress is worn: a single-breasted black cloth court coat, of cut-away front style, with seven buttons (although actually fastened edge-to-edge on the chest by a hook and eye arrangement). It has gauntlet cuffs, each with three 'notched holes and buttons'; and there are six buttons on the tails at the back (two at the waist, two at the centre and two at the bottom of the skirts). The coat is worn with a black cloth waistcoat, cloth breeches to match the coat, black silk stockings and buckled shoes. In court the coat and waistcoat are usually worn with trousers and shoes, and with bands rather than frills and ruffles. (Moreover, some practitioners choose to wear a 'sleeved waistcoat' in place of the separate waistcoat and topcoat). Since 2008 (when a new 'civil robe' was introduced for working wear) traditional court dress has not been worn by judges sitting in civil courts in the UK. while the cloth suit was worn under a silk robe for levées and on other occasions. During periods of mourning others in Court dress likewise wear broad-hemmed frill and ruffles, black buckles and gloves and a black-mounted sword. Clerical court dress At courts and levées, bishops were directed to wear rochet and chimere; other clergy (and nonconformist ministers) were to wear cassock, gown and scarf. For 'state or full dress dinners, and evening state parties', however, they were to wear a cloth court coat with knee-breeches and buckled shoes. Scottish dress In 1898, a special dress with sword and dirk was allowed for Chiefs and petty Chiefs as a military uniform at court. By 1908, this was extended to Highland gentlemen, and comprised: kilt, sporran, doublet of cloth or velvet, Highland belts, claymore, dirk, long plaid. By 1912, the qualification was absent and the description was more detailed. It was to comprise: • black silk velvet full dress doublet (silk lined) • set of silver Celtic or crested buttons (for doublet) • superfine tartan full dress kilt • short trews • full dress tartan stockings • full dress long shoulder plaid • full dress white hair sporran, silver-mounted and tassels • full dress silver mounted dirk with knife and fork • full dress silver mounted skean dhu with knife • patent leather shoulder belt, silver-mounted • waist belt with silver clasp • silver mounted shoulder brooch • silver kilt pin • lace jabot • one pair buckles for instep of shoes • one pair small ankle buckles for shoes • full dress brogues • Highland claymore. • Glengarry or Balmoral, crest or ornament By 1937, the shoulder plaid became shoulder plaid or belted plaid. Dress sporran could be hair, fur, or skin, any pattern. Footwear was dress shoes and brogues. Highland Bonnet, feather or feathers if entitled. Highland pistols and powder horn may be worn. ==Court uniform==

wearing court uniform in 1825. The introduction of court uniform to the United Kingdom is attributed to King George IV, ; he is said to have been inspired by the uniform of the Marshals of France, and also to have based it on the Windsor uniform (which had been introduced by his father George III in 1777). • 1st class uniform was worn by the Parliamentary Secretary and the Permanent Secretary; • 2nd class uniform was worn by the Second Secretary and Principal Assistant Secretaries; • 3rd class uniform was worn by Assistant Secretaries, the Chief Veterinary Officer, the Director of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (and others); • 4th class uniform was worn by Principals and Senior Assistant Principals; • 5th class uniform was worn by Junior Assistant Principals. The Minister was entitled to wear Privy Counsellor's uniform. The different classes were indicated by different widths of gold oak-leaf embroidery on the cuffs of the coatee (and on the fronts of the full-dress coat, if worn): 1st class had , 2nd class had , 3rd class had , 4th class , and 5th class . On the edge of the cuffs, collar and coatee, the embroidery had a purl (i.e. twisted cord) edging for 1st class, and saw edge for lower classes. By the late 1920s the number of officials entitled to Household uniform had been greatly expanded; the Lord Steward and Lord Chamberlain (who were ex officio members of the Privy Council) now wore Privy Counsellor's uniform, with collar and cuffs of scarlet cloth. In the 20th century it was noted that a different uniform was worn by gentlemen of the Lord Chamberlain's Office and the Lord Steward's / Master of the Household's Department: similar to the Household uniform but with gold Russia braid on the cuffs, back and pocket flaps (in place of the embroidery). For others who had previously been entitled to wear it, a new 1st class uniform was added (so that there were now six classes in all). The width of the embroidery for the new 1st class was reduced from to , and it was given a wavy (in place of the purl) edging, for further differentiation. Nonetheless, it was also made clear that 'all persons in possession of Civil Uniforms made in accordance with previous Regulations may continue to wear them as heretofore'. In the 19th century the Lord Great Chamberlain wore 1st class Household uniform, The coatee (for both full-dress and levée dress) was in blue cloth, with a Prussian collar, single-breasted buttoning with nine frosted gilt buttons of royal arms, two more buttons on back waist, two more on coat tails. It was embroidered with a silver laurel and oakleaf motif, with a gold saw-edge border. Consuls-general and consuls had embroidery on the collar, cuffs, pocket flaps, and back; vice-consuls had embroidery on the cuffs and front half of the collar only. Consuls-general had , consuls and vice-consuls . All wore white breeches and stockings, patent leather court shoes with gilt buckles for full dress, or trousers with silver lace stripes and patent leather military boots for levée dress (consuls' stripes were , others' were ). The uniform was worn with a black beaver cocked hat, having a black cockade, silver bullion loops, and gold tassels. For consuls-general there were treble loops and a border of black ostrich feathers, for consuls double loops, and for vice-consuls single loops. A blue greatcoat or cloak, blue detachable cape was for outdoors use. The sword accessories were the same as for standard court uniform. At the same time, a simpler version of the uniform (without the lapels and epaulettes) was prescribed to be worn by 'Superior Officers of each Colonial Government' at their Governor's discretion. When Victoria came to the throne in 1837, she provided further guidance: the second uniform was now to be based on that worn by Deputy Lieutenants (with the colours again reversed), and was directed to be worn by members of executive councils, legislative councils and by Speakers of the House of Assembly. In 1859, however, Queen Victoria conferred 'on Her Majesty's Civil Servants in the Colonies, the right to wear the Civil Uniform prescribed for Her Majesty's Servants in Great Britain'. For Governors, it consisted of a plain blue coat with scarlet collar and cuffs (embroidered in silver), silver epaulettes and trimmings, and a plumed hat. Governors General wore aiguillettes in addition. This uniform (in slightly simplified form) is still occasionally worn by Governors of British Overseas Territories today. Tropical dress For all the above posts, a simplified white uniform was provided for use in tropical postings: of white drill with gilt buttons. Members of the diplomatic and consular services had the same embroidery on the collar and cuffs as on the full-dress blue coatee, but worked on (detachable) white cloth panels. Members of the colonial service, on the other hand, wore dark blue gorget patches with gold braid, which varied according to rank (as did the number of buttons on the cuff). the following year, details were published of 'a new general uniform which The Queen has approved for the Foreign Service, to be worn at diplomatic and consular posts alike'. Full Dress included a dark blue coatee with black velvet collar and cuffs, and dark blue trousers with gold stripes; it was worn with a cocked hat and sword. There were five classes of uniform (for different grades of official), distinguished by different amounts of gold lace and embroidery on the collar and cuffs. A white tropical version was also provided, with different patterns of gorget for the different classes of uniform, with which either a white helmet or a peaked hat was worn. A form of Evening Dress was also listed, with gilt buttons and a black velvet notched collar. In the UK, Court uniform is still worn by a few select officials on formal State occasions (such as at the State Opening of Parliament). It was worn by a few officials and privy counsellors at the Coronation of Charles III and Camilla; but the last time it was worn by people in significant numbers was at the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. The wearing of breeches, stockings and court shoes has largely fallen into abeyance, so the trousers of the levée version are worn instead with full dress. Within His Majesty's Diplomatic Service ambassadors and their deputies retain a simplified version of the uniform, for wear on such occasions as the presentation of credentials (and then only for those accredited to certain countries). Until about 1965 Foreign Office Regulations and Consular Instructions had required even junior foreign service officers to acquire this formal dress following completion of their probation period. The Governors of the few remaining British Overseas Territories were notified in 2004 that the expense of providing uniforms would no longer be a recognised charge against the Foreign and Commonwealth Office, but some have opted locally to maintain the tradition. ==See also==