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Dalkey Quarry

Dalkey quarry is a long-disused 19th century granite quarry located on Dalkey Hill in the Dublin suburb of Dalkey, which was used to build several large maritime structures in south Dublin. Since passing into public ownership in the early 20th century and becoming part of Killiney Hill Park, it has become one of the most important rock climbing venues in Ireland, with over 350 graded routes, some of which are amongst the hardest single-pitch rock climbs in the country such as Indecent Assault. The climbs are all traditional climbing routes and no bolted sport climbing routes are permitted, although some metal pegs are tolerated on the most extreme routes.

History
Quarrying started in 1815–1817 on Dalkey Hill in order to supply granite for the construction of the new harbour pier at nearby Dún Laoghaire, as well as for the construction of the South Bull Wall (part of the outer defences of Dublin Harbour) and as flagstone for Dublin streets. Dalkey granite is known for its hardness when compared to other granites, being "as hard as iron" according to Jim Murphy, a Dublin stonecutter interviewed in 1976. According to engineer John Hussey, Dalkey granite is an "engineering granite", suitable for the construction of harbours, breakwaters, lighthouses and slipways. Dalkey and Killiney quarries supplied the stone for many of these types of engineering projects in the Dublin area, and owing to their proximity to the sea, the stone easy to transport by ship. In the 1860s, a two-ton foundation stone of Dalkey granite was used for the base of the O'Connell Monument in Dublin. The quarry was connected to Dún Laoghaire by a light railway, part of whose alignment was later used to build the Dalkey Atmospheric Railway. The remaining part of the route is now a public footpath known as The Metals, and much of the original granite paving survives. A number of the houses on nearby Ardbrugh Road may have been originally built as quarry staff cottages, though most quarrymen originally squatted or lived in primitive tents. The quarry was the scene of major industrial action in the 1820s as quarry workers, who then numbered over 1,000 with their families, looked for better pay and conditions. After the construction of the harbour, quarrying only continued sporadically thereafter before finally ending in 1917. In 1914, the quarry was taken over by what is now known as Dún Laoghaire–Rathdown County Council (DLRCC), and most of the land was added to the existing Killiney Hill Park thus opening it up to the general public. In May 2010, DLRCC angered climbers when they removed several large boulders from the quarry, disrupting climbing routes and potentially damaging other climbing routes in the process. ==Rock climbing==
Rock climbing
Layout and access There are three main climbing sections, the "Upper Cliffs", the "West Valley", and the "East Valley". Access to the West and East Valley sections is via the main entrance on Ardbrugh Road (just off Dalkey Avenue). Beside the East Valley section is a "Far East Valley" section, however, it is on private property and closed to climbing. Directly above the East and West valleys is the Upper Cliffs. It can be accessed by the broad ridge that separates the East and West valleys (along which the quarry railway ran), or via a tarmac path from the Killiney Hill car-park, that passes an old signalling tower (British military tower to signal neighbouring Martello towers), dropping steeply via a set of concrete steps to the base of the Upper Cliffs. The vegetation is home to wildlife, including foxes, and since 2014, peregrine falcons have sometimes nested in the Upper Cliffs section; climbing in the vicinity of the nests is banned during the nesting periods. Routes and ethics Routes are mainly single-pitch routes (there are some multi-pitch routes), and between in length. The latest guidebook, published in 2005, lists about 300 routes, at grades up to E7, while the online guidebook contains over 350 routes with grades to E8 6c (e.g. Indecent Assault now regraded to E8). The number and density of routes in Dalkey Quarry is high given the size of the quarry (e.g. Fair Head's 5 km long cliff has circa 450 routes, and Ailladie's 1 km-long cliff has circa 200 routes), however, its popularity is due to its position as the most accessible outdoor rock climbing area for Dublin. The publication of the second IMC guidebook in 1949 saw many of the more obvious features climbed in the quarry. The council also said "This decision has been taken as a precautionary measure pending the completion of a comprehensive safety assessment at the site". ==Bouldering==
Bouldering
While not noted for its bouldering routes, the quarry does have two areas, the "Ivy Chimney" section in the East Valley being the most popular area due to its ability to stay dry in damp conditions (its popularity dates from the pre-indoor climbing wall period), and the "Traverse Wall" in the West Valley that contains long and low warm-up routes. Boulder grades range from to (Ricky Bell's Super Pitch Shifter in the East Valley). In addition, several shorter traditional climbs are now ascended as highball bouldering problems with bouldering mats, popular candidates being Pilaster (VS 4c, 15m), Solitary Confinement (E5 6b, 14m), and Block Party (E7 6c, , 9m). ==See also==
Gallery
File:Dublin Bay - Ireland- From Kingstown quarries LCCN91796266.jpg|Dublin Bay from "Kingstown Quarries" aka Dalkey quarry (circa 1856-1907) File:General View, Dalkey, Co. Dublin (36593797624).jpg|A view from Dalkey quarry photographed by Robert French (c. 1890s) ==References==
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