Schiaparelli was one of the first designers to develop the
wrap dress, taking inspiration from aprons to produce a design that would accommodate and flatter all female body types. Her design, which first appeared in 1930, offered a two-sided model with armholes on each side, brought together in the front of the garment and wrapped and tied at the waistline. Buttons may also have been incorporated into this early version. Initially conceived as beachwear and produced in four colours of
tussore silk, the dress was popular with buyers and copied by garment manufacturers as a design for everyday street wear. Some forty years afterwards, this uncomplicated and easy-to-wear design was revisited in the 1970s by the American designer
Diane von Fürstenberg. In 1931, Schiaparelli's divided skirt—a forerunner of shorts—shocked the tennis world when worn by
Lili de Alvarez at
Wimbledon in 1931. Most of the shoes in her collections during the 1930s and '40s were by
Perugia, who developed stretch shoes for her that didn't need fasteners, but in 1937 Schiaparelli became the first couturier to show shoes by
Roger Vivier.
Fastenings Schiaparelli is one of the designers credited with offering the first clothes with visible
zippers in 1930. She used chunky plastic zippers made from
cellulose nitrate, the first semi-synthetic plastic fabric, and
cellulose acetate. Along with
Charles James, Schiaparelli had arrangements with the manufacturers to promote their zip fasteners, using specific brands depending on where the garment would be sold (such as Éclair for Paris models, Lightning Fastener Co. for London models, and Hookless Fastener Co. zips for American export models). or silver
tambourines and silk-covered carrots and cauliflowers.
Jewellery Schiaparelli's output also included distinctive costume jewellery in a wide range of novelty designs. One of her most directly Surrealist designs was a 1938 Rhodoid (a newly developed clear plastic) necklace studded with coloured metallic insects by Clément giving the illusion that the bugs were crawling directly on the wearer's skin. During the 1930s her jewellery designs were produced by Schlumberger, Clemént and Jean-Pierre, who also made up designs for buttons and fasteners. Schiaparelli also offered brooches by
Alberto Giacometti, fur-lined metal cuffs by
Méret Oppenheim, and pieces by Max Boinet, Lina Baretti, and the writer
Elsa Triolet. Compared to her unusual couture 1930s pieces, 1940s and 1950s Schiaparelli jewellery tended to be more abstract or floral-themed. Schiaparelli’s jewelry in the 1930s showcased her penchant for bold material choices, such as glass stones, cabochons, dyed pearls, and iridescent seashells, often assembled in shapes and colors that had not been seen before. Her surrealist influence was evident in pieces like lip-shaped brooches with pearls for teeth and lobster pins. Elsa Schiaperelli was a big fan of Salvador Dali and the Surrealist movement, which noticeably influenced her own designs in the 1930s and 1940s. Schiaparelli presented some of her jewelry at the influential Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts in 1925.
Textiles Schiaparelli was noted for her use of innovative textiles which were woven to resemble textures such as tree bark or crepe paper; a
plush made to mimic ermine; and novelty prints including a fabric patterned with newspaper clippings. She made garments from crumpled rayon 50 years before
Issey Miyake produced similarly pleated and crinkled pieces. Making clothes from these new and untested fabrics posed unexpected hazards—
Diana Vreeland had a Schiaparelli dress melt at the dry cleaners' after its synthetic fabric reverted to chemical sludge upon contact with the cleaning fluids.
Artist collaborations , London, 1937.
V&A, T.59-2005. Schiaparelli's fanciful imaginative powers coupled with involvement in the
Dada/
Surrealist art movements directed her into new creative territory. Her instinctive sensibilities soon came to distinguish her creations from her chief rival
Coco Chanel, who referred to her as 'that Italian artist who makes clothes'. Schiaparelli collaborated with a number of contemporary artists, most famously with
Salvador Dalí, to develop a number of her most notable designs. Schiaparelli also had a good relationship with other artists including
Leonor Fini, In 1937 Schiaparelli collaborated with the artist
Jean Cocteau to produce two of her most notable art-themed designs for that year's Autumn collection. An evening jacket was embroidered with a female figure with one hand caressing the waist of the wearer, and long blonde hair cascading down one sleeve. A long evening coat featured two profiles facing each other, creating the
optical illusion of a vase of roses. While Schiaparelli did not formally name her designs, the four main garments from her partnership with Dalí are popularly known as follows: ;Lobster dress The 1937
Lobster dress was a simple white silk evening dress with a crimson waistband featuring a large lobster painted (by Dalí) onto the skirt. From 1934, Dalí had started incorporating lobsters into his work, including
New York Dream-Man Finds Lobster in Place of Phone shown in the magazine
American Weekly in 1935, and the mixed-media
Lobster Telephone (1936). His design for Schiaparelli was interpreted into a fabric print by the leading silk designer Sache. It was famously worn by
Wallis Simpson in a series of photographs by
Cecil Beaton taken at the
Château de Candé shortly before her marriage to
Edward VIII. ;Tears Dress The Tears Dress, a slender pale-blue evening gown printed with a Dalí design of ''
trompe-l'œil rips and tears, worn with a thigh-length veil with "real" tears carefully cut out and lined in pink and magenta, was part of the February 1938 Circus Collection
. Richard Martin saw the Tears Dress as a memento mori'' produced in response to the
Spanish Civil War and the spread of
Fascism, declaring that to "tear the dress is to deny its customary decorum and utility, and to question the matter of concealment and revelation in the garment." He noted that even if the tears in the dress were mere ornament like
slashing, the real tears on the veil negated this, offering visual disagreements between reality and pretence. ;Skeleton Dress Dalí also helped Schiaparelli design the Skeleton Dress for the
Circus Collection. ;Shoe Hat In 1933, Dalí was photographed by his wife
Gala Dalí with one of her slippers balanced on his head. In 1937 he sketched designs for a shoe hat for Schiaparelli, which she featured in her Fall-Winter 1937–38 collection. This hat was worn by Gala Dalí, Schiaparelli herself, and by the Franco-American editor of the French ''
Harper's Bazaar'', heiress
Daisy Fellowes, who was one of Schiaparelli's best clients.
Film costumes in
Moulin Rouge, 1952 Schiaparelli designed the wardrobes for several films, starting with the French version of 1933's
Topaze, and ending with
Zsa Zsa Gabor's outfits for the 1952 biopic of
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec,
Moulin Rouge in which Gabor played
Jane Avril.
Moulin Rouge won
Marcel Vertès an
Academy Award for Costume Design, although Schiaparelli's role in costuming the leading lady went unacknowledged beyond a prominent on-screen credit for Gabor's costumes. Authentically, Gabor's costumes were directly based upon Toulouse-Lautrec's portraits of Avril. She famously dressed Mae West for ''
Every Day's a Holiday'' (1937) using a mannequin based on West's measurements, which inspired the torso bottle for
Shocking perfume. ==Maison Schiaparelli==