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Great Divide Trail

The Great Divide Trail (GDT) is a hiking trail in the Canadian Rockies, made up of several trails connected by roads and wilderness routes. It closely follows the Great Divide between Alberta and British Columbia, crossing it more than 30 times. Its southern terminus is at the Canada–US border, and its northern terminus is at Kakwa Lake, north of Jasper National Park. The trail is 1,095 km (680 mi) long and ranges in elevation from 1,055 m (3,461 ft) to 2,590 m (8,500 ft). Although the idea and first trail work goes back to the 1960s, the project went dormant for decades until the early 2000s.

History
The first record of the Great Divide Trail appears in 1966, when the Girl Guides of Canada proposed the idea of a trail running the length of the BC–Alberta border through the Rocky Mountains. Parks Canada approved the project, with the objective of completing the GDT in five years. Outside of the national parks, the route south of Palliser Pass was originally mapped in 1974 by six University of Calgary students with support from the Alberta Wilderness Association and the Federal Opportunities for Youth Program. Mary Jane Cox, Jenny Feick, Chris Hart, Dave Higgins, Cliff White, and Dave Zevick surveyed an estimated along the proposed GDT route through public lands. Despite initially low enthusiasm from the Alberta and BC governments, whose representatives cited a lack of interest in the trail and a priority on resource development, the group founded the Great Divide Trail Association (GDTA) in April 1976 and began trail construction that summer. Parks Canada continued to study the idea, but the agency was concerned about overuse and never moved forward with it. By the mid-1980s, with funding from the Alberta government, crews had built 90 km of trail from North Fork Pass to Fording River Pass. When support from the province of Alberta ended, and logging and off-road vehicle use destroyed trails, work ceased, and the GDTA became inactive. In 2000, Dustin Lynx revived the GDT by releasing his guidebook ''Hiking Canada's Great Divide Trail''. By 2004, a group known as the Friends of the Great Divide Trail began to work on the GDT once again, particularly in the unprotected Alberta Crown lands between Crowsnest Pass and Banff National Park. In 2013, the Friends of the Great Divide Trail re-activated the GDTA as a nonprofit corporation headquartered in Calgary. Since then, the association has conducted annual maintenance and trail-building throughout the length of the GDT. In 2023–2024, the GDTA became the official trail manager of the GDT on Alberta public lands. The association also reached 600 members. ==Geology==
Geology
The Great Divide Trail is entirely within the Continental Ranges of the Canadian Rocky Mountains and traverses all but their southernmost extent, which stretches well into Montana. These ranges are bounded on the east by the Interior Plains and on the west by the Rocky Mountain Trench. North of Jarvis Creek, just beyond the GDT's northern terminus, the Continental Ranges end and the Hart Ranges begin. The GDT passes through mountains that are largely composed of sedimentary rock. Limestone, shale, and quartzite are very common along the trail and date from the late Neoproterozoic to the Cretaceous, far younger than the granite and gneiss commonly found in the American Rockies. The exception is in Waterton Lakes National Park, which has some of the oldest rock in the Canadian Rockies, from the Purcell Supergroup. The Canadian Rockies did not experience additional volcanic uplift, and so the GDT travels through generally lower-elevation valleys and passes than the CDT in the American Rockies. However, the deeper valleys and steep mountain walls caused by heavy glaciation give the Canadian Rockies, particularly the large mountains along the divide, comparable or even greater prominence than the highest American peaks. Points of interest There are unique rocks visible from or near the GDT in Waterton Lakes National Park in the Clark Range (Section A). Among the typical layers of limestone and dolomite, there are red and green siltstones called argillite, black bands of igneous Purcell Sill, and stromatolites: fossils of cyanobacteria colonies. It is a finger lake; glaciers carved its present deep, steep-sided shape out of an ancestral river valley, deposited a dam of debris at the northern end of the valley while retreating, and filled the valley with meltwater. Mount Assiniboine (Section C) on the divide between Banff National Park and Mount Assiniboine Park is an example of a glacial horn, or pyramidal peak. It was shaped by cirque glaciers that eroded its flat, steep sides, and is frequently referred to as the "Matterhorn of the Rockies". With an elevation of , it is one of the ten tallest peaks in the Canadian Rockies. The Burgess Shale of the Waputik Mountains in Yoho National Park (the Kiwetinok alternate of Section D) is a formation containing large numbers of exceptionally well-preserved fossils dating to over 500 mya. From his discovery of the fossils in 1909 until 1924, Charles Walcott collected 65,000 specimens. The vast diversity of soft-bodied organisms preserved in the formation has been highly informative to paleontology and paleoclimatology. There are extensive karst systems on or just off the GDT through the Palliser Formation, in and around southern Jasper National Park (Section E). Caves, sinkholes, and slot canyons are formed by slightly acidic surface water dissolving passages in the limestone layers. Examples include caves at the head of Cataract Valley and at the outlet of Medicine Lake, down the Watchtower Access Trail. During most years, the entire flow of the Maligne River drains through underground passages from the lake and emerges in Maligne Canyon, away. Maligne Lake (Section E) is the longest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies, at . It was formed after the Last Glacial Maximum, , when the glaciers (diminished but still present at the south end of the lake) rapidly receded, then briefly re-advanced to deposit a large terminal moraine, before retreating to the large mountains beyond Coronet Creek. That moraine now forms the north shore of Maligne Lake. Mount Robson is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies (elevation ) and the most prominent anywhere in the Rocky Mountains ( from base to peak). Its height is due to its location at the base of a syncline. While nearby mountains are tilted by tectonic forces deforming the rocks, Robson's layers remained relatively horizontal and thus more stable and resistant to erosion. The junction between the North Boundary Trail and the Berg Lake Trail (the transition between Sections F and G) is at the northern base of the Robson Massif. ==Climate==
Climate
The Continental Ranges of the Canadian Rockies that the GDT passes through have a continental climate, with a wide range of temperatures between seasons and moderate precipitation; there is generally more precipitation on the west side of the divide. The trail is mostly covered in snow until June, which can linger well into July, particularly on the northeast sides of passes, due to less direct sunlight and deeper snow drifts caused by the prevailing westerly winds. Of the months that the GDT is typically hiked, June is the wettest, with average precipitation decreasing through the summer and fall. July is the warmest month, with typical daily highs between and . By September, precipitation often falls as snow at higher elevations, and overnight lows in the valleys are near freezing. Mountain weather is highly variable, and the GDT is no exception, as the trail goes up and down in elevation, from one valley to another, and from one hour to the next. The lapse rate is a drop in air temperature of at least 0.7 °C for every increase in elevation. Because the prevailing winds are perpendicular to the mountain ranges, winds below treeline are often lighter and shifting. However, the valleys that are aligned southwest-northeast tend to have strong, steady winds. In the afternoons of hot July and August days, there is a greater chance of sudden thunderstorms that may be accompanied by hail. ==Route==
Route
While portions of the GDT are recognized and supported by the province of Alberta, the GDTA continues to work towards a formal designation, including by Parks Canada, for the long-term protection of the trail. According to the GDTA: The GDT is officially signed in portions of Sections A, B, D, and G, but elsewhere the GDT is not officially signed. Much of the trail within national and provincial parks is well marked but not identified as the GDT. The route is actually made up of several separate trail systems joined together by ATV tracks, roads, and wilderness routes. The GDT varies from being a well-developed, signed trail to an unmarked, cross-country wilderness route where navigation skills are required. Since the trail follows the Canadian Rocky Mountains, it runs generally northwest–southeast, with the northern terminus being further north—equivalent to 5° of latitude—and west of the southern terminus. The GDT passes through five national parks, nine provincial parks, four wilderness areas, and four forest districts. The trail is commonly broken up into seven sections, A–G, based on access and resupply. Section A Section A runs approximately from the GDT's southern terminus at the Canada–United States border (which is also the northern terminus of the Continental Divide Trail) to the hamlet of Coleman, near Crowsnest Pass. The southern travel through Waterton Lakes National Park, where much of the area below the treeline burned in the 2017 Kenow Wildfire. This part of the trail visits several notable places, including the Waterton Townsite, Carthew Summit, and the second highest point on the GDT: Lineham Ridge, at . Section B This section connects Crowsnest Pass in the south to Kananaskis in the north. Nearly all of it is in public lands, with no designated campgrounds and no specific permits required. The trail was built to keep the route just east of the divide, avoiding private land, including the Line Creek Mine, on the British Columbia side. It passes features such as Window Mountain Lake and Domke Ridge. The High Rock Trail reconnects with the original GDT, built in the 1970s and 1980s, Section C In contrast to section B, the section C is entirely within provincial and national parks, requiring permits nearly the entire way. Because the GDT in this section uses some of the most popular hiking trails in Canada, it can be competitive to obtain certain campsites. In the south, the section starts at Kananaskis Lakes, before climbing over the divide into Height of the Rockies Provincial Park. This, the only area that does not require permits, ends in less than at the Banff National Park boundary at Palliser Pass. Passing Marvel Lake, the route enters Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park at Wonder Pass, visiting Mount Assiniboine and Lake Magog before returning to Banff at Sunshine Meadows. and South Kananaskis Pass routes. Section D This is the southernmost section of the GDT with substantial stretches of unmaintained trail. The GDTA describes Section D, at , as the shortest section. Although Section F is about , the northern end is from a trailhead, so completing it requires a greater hiking distance. From Field, the main route takes an overgrown road up the Amiskwi River to Amiskwi Pass and requires the first significant unbridged river crossings that a northbound hiker is likely to encounter. From Amiskwi Pass, the main route leaves Yoho National Park and follows a gravel road down to the Blaeberry River. North of the pass, hikers use the David Thompson Heritage Trail to reach Howse Pass, where they re-enter Banff National Park. The northern follow the Howse River out to the Icefield Parkway and Saskatchewan River Crossing. Northbound hikers leave Highway 11 at the Owen Creek trailhead and, once over Owen Pass, exit Banff National Park for the third and final time. For the next , the route uses unsigned but maintained trail in the Job/Cline Public Land Use Zone, and unmaintained trail in the White Goat Wilderness Area. Permits for specific campsites are not required. Highlights in this area include Michelle Lakes, the highpoint of the GDT at an unnamed pass, and Pinto Lake. In 2022, Parks Canada began once more to include the trail on official maps, renovate campgrounds, and allow the Friends of Jasper National Park and the GDTA to clear deadfall and overgrowth on the trail. This has improved trail conditions, although there are still unbridged water crossings. At the north end of Maligne Lake, the GDT uses the popular Skyline Trail and a short stretch of day-use trails or roads to reach the Athabasca River and Jasper. From the northern end of Section F, the route continues northwest on the North Boundary Trail, classified as low-priority for maintenance by Jasper National Park. Although horse parties occasionally clear deadfall from the trail, washed-out bridges have not been replaced, necessitating significant fords of Gendarme, Carcajou, and Chown Creeks. Crossing Bess Pass leaves the Smoky River watershed and Jasper National Park for Jackpine Pass and Blueberry Lake. The Blueberry Creek access trail drops steeply down from Blueberry Lake to the Holmes River FSR, where the GDTA and Robson Backcountry Adventures operate a resupply service. Hikers not needing to resupply cross into the Willmore Wilderness Park and the Jackpine River valley. From Kakwa Lake, there are two options for exiting the GDT by ground. The most common choice starts with a hike to the nearest vehicle-accessible road at Bastille Creek, and another on the Walker Forest Service Road to reach pavement at Highway 16. Alternatively, hikers can take a mix of trails east to the Lick Creek trailhead in Alberta. ==Travelling the trail==
Travelling the trail
The trail may be hiked in many short sections as day hikes or backpacking trips, or thru-hiked in a single season. A typical time to thru-hike the entire trail between the Canada-US border and Kakwa Lake is about seven weeks from early July until late August. Before July, lingering snow and swollen rivers substantially increase hazards, and by September, there is an increasing likelihood of snow and freezing temperatures. Backcountry camping makes up most nights for thru-hikers of the GDT. There are also a handful of backcountry lodges and ACC huts near the trail. For the majority of the trail, hikers must stay in designated campsites, with a valid permit. Resupply In general, thru-hikers can resupply at the transitions between sections A through G, which range in length from about to . Some resupply points are towns with full services, while others are just locations near the trail where food can be safely cached ahead of time. Some possible resupply locations, such as Banff and Golden, are further off-route. Hazards The vast majority of the trail is outside cell reception, so contacting emergency services requires a satellite communicator. Beyond the common risks of recreating outdoors, the GDT is notable for being entirely in core grizzly bear habitat. Although bear attacks are very rare, these and animals such as black bears, cougars, moose, and elk can be dangerous. Hikers can reduce this risk by safely storing their food, carrying bear spray, being alert, and making noise while hiking. The Great Divide Trail has many unbridged river crossings that can be hazardous when water levels are high. This typically occurs after rain events, in early summer from snowmelt above the trail and late on warm days due to high glacial melt. GDT hikers will have to navigate many types of watercourses, such as large braided rivers and fast-flowing cobble streams. Because rivers on the GDT are glacially fed, glacial silt can obscure the stream bed except in still, shallow areas. During heat waves, temperatures on the trail have reached at least , which can contribute to heat exhaustion or heat stroke. Given the exposed position of many parts along the GDT, thunderstorms are also a hazard. Hikers should watch for signs of thunderheads before committing to long stretches above the treeline. Notable thru-hikes In 1988, Chris Townsend hiked the entire length of the Canadian Rockies, including the original GDT route proposed by Jim Thorsell, and visited what would become the northern terminus at Kakwa Lake. He wrote about it in his 1989 book High Summer. Dustin Lynx's 1996 hike of the GDT is credited with reviving interest in the trail when, in 2000, he published his research in the guidebook Hiking the Great Divide Trail. Andrew Cotterell set the fastest known time for a supported thru-hike of the GDT at just over 20 days in July 2021. Ellaine Bissonho holds the fastest known time for a "yo-yo" (hiking the trail in one direction, then reversing it) of the GDT at 52 days, in 2019. Non-hiking . Although primarily a hiking route, many portions of the GDT are accessible to equestrians where not precluded by unsuitable terrain or regulations. The Great Divide Trail Association is working on alternate routes for horse travel. The ski traverse stays much closer to the divide than the hiking trail, which avoids the technical glacier travel required around the ice fields. ==References==
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