Pre-Hispanic period The strategic location of
Manila along
the bay and at the mouth of the
Pasig River made it an ideal location for the
Tagalog tribes and kingdoms to trade with merchants from what would be today's
China,
India,
Borneo, and
Indonesia. The prehistoric polity of
Maynila was located where Intramuros would be built. In 1564,
Spanish explorers led by
Miguel López de Legazpi sailed from
New Spain, now Mexico, and arrived on the island of
Cebu in April 1565, establishing the first
Spanish capitania in the Philippines. Having heard from the natives about the rich resources in Maynila, Legazpi dispatched two of his lieutenant-commanders,
Martín de Goiti and
Juan de Salcedo, to explore the island of Luzon. The Spaniards arrived on the island of
Luzon in 1570. After quarrels and misunderstandings between the
Muslim natives and the Spaniards, they fought for control of the land and settlements. After several months of warfare the natives were defeated, and the Spaniards made a peace pact with the councils of
Rajah Sulaiman III,
Lakan Dula, and
Rajah Matanda who handed over the city to the Spaniards.
Spanish colonial period (1571–1898) ''|left|173x173px Legazpi declared the area of Manila as the new capital of the Spanish colony on June 24, 1571, because of its strategic location and rich resources. He also proclaimed the
sovereignty of the
Monarchy of Spain over the
whole archipelago.
King Philip II of Spain delighted at the new conquest achieved by Legazpi and his men, awarding the city a
coat of arms and declaring it as:
Ciudad Insigne y Siempre Leal (
English: "Distinguished and Ever Loyal City"). It was settled and became the political, military, and religious center of the
Spanish Empire in Asia. in 1873. The city was in constant danger of natural and man-made disasters and worse, attacks from foreign invaders. In 1574, a fleet of Chinese pirates led by
Limahong attacked the city and destroyed it before the Spaniards drove them away. The colony had to be rebuilt again by the survivors. These attacks prompted the construction of the wall. The city of stone began during the rule of
Governor-General Santiago de Vera. construction of the walls began on 1590 and continued under many
governor-generals until 1872. By the middle of 1592, Dasmarinas wrote the King about the satisfactory development of the new walls and fortification. Since the construction was carried on during different periods and often far apart, the walls were not built according to any uniform plan. Improvements continued during the terms of the succeeding Governor-Generals. Governor-General
Juan de Silva executed certain work on the fortifications in 1609 which was improved by
Juan Niño de Tabora in 1626, and by
Diego Fajardo Chacón in 1644. The erection of the
Baluarte de San Diego was also completed that year, replacing the Nuestra Senora de Guia. This bastion, shaped like an "ace of spades" is the southernmost point of the wall and the first of the large bastions added to the encircling walls, then of no great height nor of finished construction.
Ravelins and
reductos were added to strengthen weak areas and serve as outer defenses. A moat was built around the city with the Pasig River serving as a natural barrier on one side. By the 18th century, the city was totally enclosed. The last construction works were completed by the start of the 19th century. In the initial period of colonization, there were a total of 1,200 Spanish families living in the vicinity of Intramuros, 600 Spanish families within the walls and another 600 living in the suburbs outside Intramuros. In addition to this were about 400 Spanish soldiers garrisoned at the walled city.
Gallery of structures File:Benavides Monument Santo Tomas Intramuros Manila Philippines.jpg|Santo Domingo Church File:Unibersidad de Santo Thomas Manila.webp|University of Santo Tomas entrance arch File:San Agustin Municipal house footbridge Intramuros, Manila , Philippines.jpg|Augustinian Provincial House footbridge over Real Street. File:Intramuros Manila Philippines footbridge.jpg|
San Agustin provincial house. File:Santo Tomas walled city Philippines.jpg|Plaza de Santo Tomas File:Main Courtyard University of Santo Tomas Manila Philippines 1800's.jpg|Fountain of the University of Santo Tomas File:San Juan de Dios Church, Intramuros, Manila, Philippines 1762.jpg|San Juan de Dios Church File:San Juan de Dios Hospital Intramuros Manila.png|San Juan de Dios Hospital File:Ateneo de Manila Arch Philippines 1800's.jpg|Entrance arch of the Ateneo de Manila University File:Ateneo Intramuros Manila Art Gallery.jpg|Ateneo Art Gallery File:Colegio de San José Manila (Intramuros) Philippines.jpg|San José of Manila File:College of Santa Isabel, Manila, Philippines.jpg|College of Santa Isabel File:San-Juan-de-Letran.jpg|San Juan de Letran File:Santa catalina and Letran Manila Philippines.jpg|Santa Catalina and Letran File:San Ignacio church interior Intramuros Manila Philippines 2.png|One of the interior doors of San Ignacio Church File:San Ignacio church interior Intramuros Manila Philippines.jpg|San Ignacio Church interior File:Parian Gate Intramuros, Manila Philippines.jpg|Parian Gate with view of Hospital de San Juan de Dios File:Old baroque santo domingo church intramuros Manila Philippines.jpg|The old Santo Domingo Church
American period (1898–1946) After the end of the
Spanish–American War, Spain surrendered the Philippines and several other territories to the United States as part of the terms of the
Treaty of Paris for $20 million. The American flag was raised at
Fort Santiago on August 13, 1898, indicating the start of American rule over the city. The Ayuntamiento became the seat of the
Philippine Commission of the United States in 1901. Fort Santiago became the headquarters of the Philippine Division of the
United States Army. The Americans made drastic changes to Manila, such as in 1903, when the walls from the Santo Domingo Gate up to the Almacenes Gate were removed as the wharf on the southern bank of the
Pasig River was improved. The stones removed were used for other construction happening around the city. The walls were breached in four areas to ease access to the city: the southwestern end of
Calle Aduana (now Andres Soriano Jr. Ave.); the eastern end of
Calle Anda; the northeastern end of
Calle Victoria (previously known as
Calle de la Escuela); and the southeastern end of
Calle Palacio (now General Luna Street). The double moats that surrounded Intramuros were deemed unsanitary and were filled in with mud dredged from
Manila Bay, where the present
Port of Manila is now located. The moats were transformed into a municipal golf course by the city. Reclamations for the construction of the Port of Manila, the
Manila Hotel, and
Rizal Park obscured the old walls and skyline of the city from
Manila Bay. The Americans also founded the first school under the new government, the
Manila High School, on June 11, 1906, along Victoria Street. In 1936, Commonwealth Act No. 171 was passed requiring that all future buildings to be constructed in Intramuros adopt Spanish colonial type architecture.
World War II and Japanese occupation In December 1941, the
Imperial Japanese Army invaded the Philippines. The first casualties in Intramuros were the destruction of
Santo Domingo Church and the original
University of Santo Tomas campus during an assault. The whole city of Manila was declared by General
Douglas MacArthur as an
open city as Manila was indefensible. In January 1945, the battle for the
liberation of Manila began when American troops returned. Intense urban fighting occurred between the combined American and Filipino troops under the
United States Army and
Philippine Commonwealth Army including recognized
guerrillas, against the 30,000 Japanese defenders. As the battle continued, both sides inflicted heavy damage on the city culminating with the
Manila massacre by Japanese troops. The Imperial Japanese Army was pushed back, eventually retreating into the Intramuros district. General MacArthur approved heavy shelling, which resulted in deaths of over 16,665 Japanese within Intramuros. Over 100,000 Filipino men, women and children died from February 3 to March 3, 1945, during the
Battle of Manila. At the end of World War II, all of the buildings and structures in Intramuros were destroyed, with only the damaged
San Agustin Church still standing.
Contemporary period (1946–present) In 1951, Intramuros was declared a historical monument and Fort Santiago, a national shrine with Republic Act 597, with the policy of restoring, reconstructing, and urban planning of Intramuros. In 1956, Republic Act 1607 declared Intramuros a "commercial, residential and educational district", opening up the district to development disregarding the historicity of the area. The same law also repealed Commonwealth Act No. 171 and Republic Act No. 597. Several laws and decrees also followed but results were deemed unsatisfactory due to limited funds.|298x298pxIn 1979, the
Intramuros Administration (IA) was created by virtue of Presidential Decree No. 1616, signed by
President Ferdinand Marcos on April 10 of that year. Since then, the IA has been slowly restoring the walls, the sub-features of the fortification, and the city within. The remaining five original gates have been restored or rebuilt: Isabel II Gate, Parian Gate, Real Gate, Santa Lucía Gate and the Postigo Gate. The entrances made by the Americans by breaching the walls at four locations are now spanned by walkways thereby creating a connection, seamless in design and character to the original walls. Buildings destroyed during the war were subsequently rebuilt:
Manila Cathedral was rebuilt and was opened to the public in 1958,
Ayuntamiento de Manila was rebuilt in 2013, while the
San Ignacio Church and Convent is currently being reconstructed as the
Museo de Intramuros.In January 2015, during
Pope Francis's visit to the Philippines, he led a mass at the Manila Cathedral that was attended by an estimated 2,000 bishops, priests and religious leaders of the Philippine Catholic Church. Anthology, an annual 3-day festival about architecture and design, was first launched in June 2016 at Intramuros. Since then, it has been renting
Fort Santiago as a venue where seminars and other activities were held, with guest speakers from local and international people from the field of architecture and design. It is made possible through the partnership of WTA Architecture + Design Studio and the IA, who are also responsible for the critically acclaimed the
Book Stop Intramuros located in Plaza Roma. of postwar buildings in the area. The
Department of Tourism along with the IA launched the first major project of the newly created Faith Sector that focuses on the historic and cultural religious wealth of the Walled City. For the 2018 lenten season, seven religious destinations can be visited. For the first time since World War II,
Visita Iglesia is once again possible in Intramuros. The seven destinations are the
Manila Cathedral,
San Agustin Church,
San Ignacio Church, Guadalupe Shrine in
Fort Santiago, Knights of Columbus Fr. Willman Chapel,
Lyceum of the Philippines University Chapel, and the
Mapua University Chapel. The event pays homage to the original seven churches during the prewar Intramuros. The 2018 lenten season event draws Infinite People from both foreign and local tourists in Intramuros. The IA, together with the Royal Danish Embassy in Manila, and Felta Multimedia, Inc., opened the iMake History Fortress at the Baluarte de Santa Barbara in Fort Santiago last March 19, 2018. The facility is the first history-based
Lego education center in the world. The
COVID-19 pandemic in March 2020 caused the IA to temporarily close several sites within Intramuros including
Fort Santiago,
Museo de Intramuros, and
Casa Manila. ==City walls==