Cantina scene in
Star Wars (1977) Mollo's interest in military uniform shaped his career and he became a respected authority on European and American uniforms. He wrote several carefully researched books on European and American military uniform, including
Uniforms of the American Revolution (1975) and
Into the Valley of Death: The British Cavalry Division at Balaclava 1854, often in collaboration with his brother Boris and with illustrator Malcolm McGregor. Mollo's specialist knowledge put him in demand as an advisor to war film productions. He was engaged as
advisor for the movies
Charge of the Light Brigade (1966),
Nicholas and Alexandra (1971) and on
Stanley Kubrick's
Barry Lyndon (1975), ensuring the historical accuracy of the military uniforms worn by actors. Mollo subsequently moved into costume design. For his first film, Mollo unexpectedly found himself working not on a historical military drama but in a genre he had no knowledge of: science fiction. He was commissioned in 1975 by a young filmmaker named
George Lucas to devise uniforms and outfits for a fantasy
space war film,
Star Wars. When asked at the time by a friend about the project, Mollo said that he thought it was a "sort of a space western and one of the heroes is a dustbin". Lucas's project envisioned a cast of heroes battling an evil
Galactic Empire, and he briefed Mollo to design costumes that would not resemble the stereotypical "spacey" look of earlier science fiction productions such as
Flash Gordon — " I don't want the audience to notice any of the costumes. I just want to see light versus dark." The aim was to make Lucas's fantasy universe appear authentic – Mollo considered that his total ignorance of science fiction was advantageous in achieving this. Lucas provided Mollo with sketches and
concept art by
Ralph McQuarrie to work from, working McQuarrie's designs for
Imperial stormtroopers and the malevolent character of
Darth Vader into functional costumes for actors to wear. McQuarrie's image of Darth Vader had developed from
Samurai armour, and Mollo built up a costume using a combination of
clerical robes, a
motorcycle suit, a
German military helmet and a
gas mask from Bermans and Nathans costumiers in
Camden Town. Mollo intentionally designed the uniforms of Imperial officers to resemble
German Nazi officers' uniforms; by contrast, the heroes of the film were dressed in costumes resembling
Wild West outfits. One of Mollo's biggest challenges on
Star Wars was to create a plethora of exotic aliens to feature in the
Mos Eisley Cantina scene. Mollo worked with George Lucas to compile a chart of visual designs for a range of character types. He collaborated with
make-up artist Stuart Freeborn, who designed the masks and
prosthetics to match each of the costumes, along with Doug Beswick,
Rick Baker and
Phil Tippett. Mollo was surprised by the success of
Star Wars, and in 1978 he won an
Academy Award for Costume Design. In his acceptance speech at the
Oscars ceremony, he said that the
Star Wars costumes were "really not so much costumes as a bit of plumbing and general automobile engineering." Mollo went on to work as advisor on more conventional military films such as
Zulu Dawn. He also designed costumes for the crew of the
Nostromo spacecraft in
Ridley Scott's
Alien (1979), and he returned to the
Star Wars universe to work with
Irvin Kershner on the 1980 sequel,
The Empire Strikes Back. His work on
Richard Attenborough's
Gandhi (1983) involved designing historically accurate
British military uniforms as well as
Ben Kingsley's
loincloth for the title role, and for this production he won his second Oscar, jointly with
Bhanu Athaiya. Mollo's other credits include
Greystoke: The Legend of Tarzan, Lord of the Apes (1984), Attenborough's
Cry Freedom (1987), and
Chaplin (1992). File:Stahlhelm2.jpg|Mollo adapted German military helmets to create his Darth Vader costume File:Darth Vader in The Empire Strikes Back.jpg|The final design of the Darth Vader helmet and costume (seen here in
The Empire Strikes Back, 1980) File:Star Wars Celebration IV - Imperial fan costumes (4878278137).jpg|Mollo's Nazi-inspired Imperial uniforms for
Star Wars (seen here in fan
cosplay) File:Star Wars and the Power of Costume July 2018 02 (Obi-Wan Kenobi's Jedi robes from Episode IV).jpg|Mollo's robes for
Obi-Wan Kenobi ==Filmography==