, Poland Since the Middle Ages, a state border has been established in the Giant Mountains, first between Poland and Bohemia, then between the Polish
Duchy of Jawor and Bohemia, between
Prussia and
Austria, between Germany and
Czechoslovakia, between Poland and Czechoslovakia, and then between Poland and the Czech Republic. Apart from minor adjustments, the boundary has survived unchanged to this day. It is disputed whether the Polish ruler
Bolesław III Wrymouth crossed the Giant Mountains during his reprisal campaign against Bohemia in 1110. Until the establishment of Poland in the 10th-11th century the mountain range and its foothills were unpopulated, with deep, impenetrable forests. The Polish part was administratively part of the
Wleń castellany. The first traces of human settlements probably appeared in the
Duchy of Bohemia near two provincial paths between Bohemia and Poland in the 12th century. The town of
Jelenia Góra and probably also
Kowary existed nearby already in the 12th century, however, the oldest villages on the foothills on the Polish side were founded in the 13th century. Among the first native inhabitants were
wood cutters,
charcoal burners and hunters, and the first immigrants were gold prospectors. The first wave of colonization by
Czech settlers in the Bohemian part goes back to the 13th century, but only includes the foothills; the mountain ridges were still unpopulated. The second wave of colonization of the foothills in the late 13th century was mostly by German settlers (
Ostsiedlung); they first colonized the Polish (Silesian) northern part, where farming conditions were better, and later the southern Bohemian part along the Elbe and Úpa rivers. Many agricultural settlements, markets and handcraft communities and cities were founded at that time, and they formed a base for the further colonization of the mountain range. In 1281, Duke
Bernard the Lightsome granted the western portion of the Giant Mountains to the
Knights Hospitaller from
Strzegom, and in 1292, Duke
Bolko I the Strict granted the
Grzbiet Lasocki in the east to the
Krzeszów Abbey, whereas the remainder of the Polish part of the mountains remained a ducal possession, but there were some small noble possessions. The first people who explored the inner parts of the Giant Mountains were treasure hunters and miners looking for gold, silver, ores and valuable stones, mainly on the Silesian side. In the 14th and 15th centuries foreigners who spoke a non-German language came to the mountains. They were called "Wallen" (see
Walha), and their journeys to the "treasure" deposits were recorded in so-called "Wallenbüchern" (Wallen books). Mysterious orientation signs from these "Wallen" are visible to this day, especially on the northern side of the mountains. In the 14th–16th centuries, miners, glassmakers, charcoal burners, woodcutters and shepherds settled in the mountains. The first glassworks reportedly was established in the Cicha Dolina ("Silent Valley") at the foot of the Grzybowiec mountain on the Polish side already in the 13th century, yet it certainly operated in the 14th–16th centuries. In the mid-14th century, there were also glassworks in
Szklarska Poręba and
Vysoké nad Jizerou. Later on, glassworkers from Bohemia also moved to the Silesian part of the mountains. In 1511 German miners from the region around
Meissen in
Saxony started working in
Obří Důl, directly below mount Sněžka/Śnieżka, and at the same time many other mines were opened in other central parts of the mountains, like Svatý Petr, now part of
Špindlerův Mlýn. Castle built by Christoph von Gendorf in 1545–1546 In the 1530s, , a
Carinthian aristocrat and royal senior captain of King Ferdinand I, appeared in the Krkonoše and obtained the entire dominion of
Vrchlabí (
Hohenelbe, High
Elbe). His enterprising spirit was crucial for the further development of the area. For the supplement of the miners he founded many smaller towns in higher parts of the mountains. Further down in the valleys iron work furnaces were built, and water wheels provided the energy required. Due to the intensive economic activity the first deforested enclaves on hillsides and on the peaks appeared during this period. in the 16th century. By order of Christoph von Gendorf, widespread timber cutting for the silver mine in
Kutná Hora started in many places, which caused irreparable damage. These orders led to the third wave of colonization, which fully affected the mountain ridges. In 1566 he invited lumberjacks from Alpine countries to settle in his domain. These people from
Tyrol,
Carinthia and
Styria changed the character of the mountains and shaped the cultural landscape significantly. Hundreds of families, especially from the
Tyrol region, created another group of inhabitants who spoke a different German dialect and brought another domestic culture to the Krkonoše. On the mountain hillsides they founded new settlements, laid down the basis for later farming by breeding cattle and built wooden dams to retain the water. In the 17th century
Albrecht von Wallenstein acquired parts of the mountains, and the town of Vrchlabí served as a base for armament of his army. The
Thirty Years' War of 1618–1648 sparked further exploration and settlement of the Giant Mountains, as the inhabitants, fleeing from the armies, took refuge in the mountains, sometimes founding new villages. Religious refugees from the Bohemian part fled to the Silesian part of the mountains, where they settled in Marysin (present-day district of
Szklarska Poręba),
Karpacz,
Borowice, Michałowice (present-day district of
Piechowice) and Jagniątków (present-day district of
Jelenia Góra). Following the war, several cottages, called
bouda (plural:
boudy) in Czech,
buda (plural:
budy) in Polish and
Baude (plural:
Bauden) in German, remained in the higher parts of the mountains, which were used during the cattle pasturage in the summer and sometimes even through the winter. Among the oldest are Luční bouda, Stara Śląska Buda at
Łabski Szczyt, Pomezní bouda and Brádlerova bouda founded in the 1620s and 1630s. The entire mountain range became a densely populated region. During the 17th century the mountain range on the Bohemian side was divided among new landowners, most of them Catholics and foreign to the region. These included the families of
Harrach, Morzin and de Waggi. Disputes about the borders of each domain soon followed, but were settled between 1790 and 1810. Since the
Treaty of Berlin (1742) Silesia had become part of the
Kingdom of Prussia. The court decision of 1790, which set the border between the Bohemian dominions and the Silesian
Schaffgotsch dominions (which family owned the Silesian part of the mountains, as well as large estates in the
Jelenia Góra Valley north of them since the Middle Ages), defines the border between Bohemia and Silesia to this day. At first Bad Warmbrunn (
Cieplice Śląskie Zdrój, now a district of Jelenia Góra) with its hot springs became a popular bath and tourist centre on the northern side of the mountains. In 1822
Wilhelm, a brother of Prussian king
Frederick William III, was the first prince of the
Hohenzollern dynasty who took his summer residence in the Hirschberg (Jelenia Góra) valley, at Fischbach (today
Karpniki) castle. In 1831 the king himself bought
Erdmannsdorf Estate, which he had learned to appreciate when visiting his brother in Fischbach and the previous owner of Erdmannsdorf, field marshal
August von Gneisenau. The valley became a princely hideaway, and in 1838 the king purchased nearby Schildau Castle (today
Wojanów) for his daughter
Louise, Princess of the Netherlands.
Frederick William IV enlarged the Erdmannsdorf manor house. Many new parks were created and manors and palaces rebuilt according to the newest architectural styles. In 1918 the Republic of
Czechoslovakia was founded, and in the following years there was an influx of Czechs on the Bohemian side of the mountains. Usually these people worked for the government (in contrast to the German inhabitants they spoke both Czech and German, which was required), but some of them also worked in the tourism industry and managed mountain huts like Labská bouda and Vosecká bouda. Many of these mountain huts had previously been owned by aristocratic landowners, but were given to the
Czech Tourist Club after the Land Control Act. This influx was stopped when the Czechoslovak side of the mountains was occupied by Germany in 1938, and many of these Czechs left the region or were expelled. , dedicated to
Allied POWs killed by Nazi Germany There was no fighting in the Giant Mountains during
World War II, and the Germans occupied the mountain huts as military observation posts, communication posts and resorts for troops. The Germans operated at least 15
forced labour camps, located in
Przesieka,
Przełęcz Karkonoska,
Piechowice,
Kowary and
Krzaczyna. The camps held prisoners of various nationalities, including Polish (often women and sometimes even children), Italian, French, Jewish, Czech, Belgian, Luxembourgish, Ukrainian and Russian. After the defeat of Germany in the war, the mountains became again part Czechoslovakia and Poland, although with Soviet-installed communist regimes, which stayed in power until the 1980s. Almost the entire German population was
expelled in accordance with the
Potsdam Agreement. On the northern Silesian side, Poles, some of whom had been expelled from what was formerly
eastern Poland resettled the area, while Czechs re-settled the southern Bohemian side of the mountain range. Today the population density of the area of the national park is two-thirds lower than before World War II, as it is a protected area, and many houses are only used at weekends, for recreational purposes. The population exchange also led to a decline of the cultural landscape. In large parts of the mountains the meadows ran to seed, settlements
deracinated, and countless memorials, chapels, shrines, landmarks and springs were destroyed, because they were either German-related or ecclesiastic. New Polish names were issued by political decree in the Polish northern Giant Mountains. In the 1970s and 1980s, Polish and Czech anti-communist activists met illegally in the Giant Mountains. Following the
Fall of Communism, presidents of Czechoslovakia and Poland met at the
Przełęcz Karkonoska in 1990. == Mountain huts and rock formations ==