The central and second highest summit has five teeth, the highest of which is known as
Doigt de Dieu (English:
Finger of God). This summit was reached from the northeast on June 28, 1870, by
Christian and Ulrich Almer and Christian Gertsch, guiding
Meta Brevoort and
W.A.B. Coolidge. The ridge from the central to the main, Western peak, which is 13 meters higher, was considered an insurmountable obstacle for the next 15 years. The Western true summit of La Meije, the
Grand Pic, is notorious for having no "easy" route to its summit. The last major peak in the Alps to be climbed, its first ascent was eventually made from the southwest on 16 August 1877 by father and son
Pierre Gaspard and their client
Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau. Their approach, over the south buttress
Arête du Promontoire and further over the
Glacier Carré and the southwest face of the Grand Pic, is now the normal route. The first ascent without a guide was made by
Frederick Gardiner with
Charles and Lawrence Pilkington on 25 July 1879. On July 26, 1885,
Ludwig Purtscheller and the brothers Otto and
Emil Zsigmondy made the first traverse from the central to the main summit, The south face is widely considered to be the most difficult of La Meije. Within two weeks after their successful traverse, the Zsigmondy brothers, together with Karl Schulz, tried to reach the Brèche Zsigmondy over the south face, but Emil died in the attempt. ==Approaches==