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Lisa Rands

Lisa Rands is an American rock climber. She is known for her bouldering for which in 2002, she became the first American female to win IFSC World Cup bouldering competitions, and topped the IFSC world boulder rankings in 2002. Rands was the first American female to climb boulders of grade V11 (8A), and V12 (8A+), and was the second-ever female in history to climb a 7C+/8A boulder. As well as making first female ascents (FFAs) of boulders such as The Mandala V12 (8A+), Rands was the first female in history to do an E8-graded traditional climbing route, The End of the Affair.

Early life
Rands was born in Southern California in 1975, and after moving to Colorado for a new job after graduating, she later returned to her native California to focus on climbing. ==Climbing career==
Climbing career
Competition climbing In December 2001, competing in her first-ever event of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Rands came 2nd in the Birmingham, England stage. In June 2002, Rands became the first American female climber to win a stage of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup, when she placed first at Lecco, Italy, beating Corine Theroux, and Sandrine Levet. In July 2002, Rands won her second major international competition coming first in the "Open des Ecrins at L'Argentiere", France's longest-running and largest bouldering competition. During 2002, Rands was ranked first in the IFSC world rankings for female bouldering. and the 2002 Professional Climbers Association (PCA) open bouldering competition in Salt Lake City, and came second in the 2003 PCA in Salt Lake City to Alex Johnson. Rands won the world's longest-running and largest outdoor bouldering competition, the Phoenix Bouldering Competition (PBC), three years running in 2002 (19th edition), 2003 (20th edition), and 2004 (21st edition, which became the Phoenix BoulderBlast). In 2004, Rands won all three stages of the southeast's Triple Crown outdoor bouldering competition, and returned ten years later in 2014, to win all three stages of the Triple Crown series. In March 2001, Rands made the first female ascent (FFA) of Plain High Drifter, becoming the first-ever American female to climb a V11-graded boulder, Rand was also featured bouldering in the 2002 climbing film, Dosage Volume 1 (2002), where she discusses her preference for "big guy problems" (e.g. committing intimidating lines with powerful moves). In July 2002, Rands climbed a second , Du Cote de Seshuan in the Magic Wood, Switzerland, and in March 2003, Rand made the third and fourth-ever female ascent in history, In 2006 and 2007, Rands made trips to Rocklands, South Africa, where she put up new boulder problems such as Pinotage SDS, ''Lisa's Arete, and Backbone'' at , and did the FFA of classic routes such as Fred Nicole's Nutsa . Her Rocklands climbs have been captured in several climbing films including Specimen (2006), In January 2007, her ground-up ascents of intimidating highball problems in the Buttermilks such as her first female ascent of This Side of Paradise , were captured in the Sender Films climbing film, The Sharp End (2007). In January 2008, aged 32, Rands became the first female to succeed on Chris Sharma's famous problem from 2008, The Mandala at . Her highball bouldering and her ascent of The Mandala were featured in two segments of NBC's Jeep World of Adventure Sports, with Rands saying: "Women are perfectly capable of climbing all the hard tall scary things that the guys climb... I really like to put myself out there on the line. 30 feet off the ground you really have to focus to relax yourself. You have to flip your mind back and fourth[sic] from this raw power to a very calm state". In October 2004, she became the first female to climb an E8-graded traditional route, Rands won Climbing magazine's 2004 Golden Piton Award for Traditional Climbing, for her ascent of the E8 route. In May 2005, she completed the first female ascent of Shine On (E7 6c) at Stanage Edge. In April 2006, she returned to the Peak District, and completed the first female ascent of another Dawes' test-piece, Gaia (E8 6c), at Black Rocks. Her ascent of Gaia is captured in the Big UP Productions climbing film, Dosage Volume 4 (2006). Rands also extended into big wall climbing, and in 2005, made a fast all-free ascent of the 20 pitch 727-metre grade IV, 5.10+ route Chiaro di Luna, on the northwest face of Aguja Saint Exupery in Patagonia. She has also put up new traditional multi-pitch alpine routes with big wall climbing legend Peter Croft, such as Gargoyle (5.11b), and Flying Buttress (5.11a) in 2011 on Merriam Peak. which was captured in the film, Reel Rock 5 (2010). ==Personal life==
Personal life
Rands lived in Bishop, California for over 14 years with her Californian-born, British-raised husband, Wills Young, who is also an extreme rock climber, rock climbing writer (for Climbing, Rock & Ice, and Outside magazines), and rock climbing guidebook writer (including Bishop Bouldering, 2007). They moved to Chattanooga, Tennessee, where they run a climbing gym, and a climbing coaching and performance school, that Climbing magazine ranked as one of America's top 10 climbing gyms in 2016. ==Bibliography==
Filmography
• Rands and Peter Croft on The Venturi Effect: • Rands bouldering in Rocklands: • Rands highball bouldering in the Buttermilks: • Rands bouldering in Rocklands: • Rands climbing Gaia (E8 6c): • Rands bouldering in France: • Rands bouldering in the Buttermilks: == See also ==
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