In 1946, the spire was first summited by
lassoing the tip from the main valley rim wall, 125-feet away, after which 29-year old Ax Nelson
prusiked the lassoed line to the peak, followed by Jack Arnold.
Steve Roper called it "one of the greatest rope stunts ever pulled off in climbing history", climbers did not recognize it as a true
rock climbing ascent with Nelson saying: "Spectacular and effective though [it] was, this maneuver required very little real climbing". That same year, 48-year old Swiss immigrant,
John Salathé, had also been attempting the spire and had invented a major improvement to the climbing
piton using the alloy used for the Ford Model A axle, which would be able to endure the compact granite of Yosemite without buckling (called
Lost Arrows). Climbing historian Steve Roper called the ascent, "a true Valley milestone: the first big-wall climb ever done in the United States - and without a doubt the beginning of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing". In June 1985,
Jerry Moffatt did the
first free ascent of the
Lost Arrow Spire Chimney with
Ron Kauk, as a live television event with an audience of over 30 million for
ABC's
Wide World of Sports. In 2020, a six-year-old child named Sam Baker climbed the spire alongside his father.
Lost Arrow Spire Tip from the spire The last two
pitches of
Lost Arrow Spire Chimney are called the
Lost Arrow Spire Tip (
5.12b or 5.7 C2) and complete the detached portion of the spire. The first free ascent of the Tip was in 1984 by a team led by
Dave Shultz. The Tip route is often reached by
rappelling into an area known as
The Notch. Once the route is completed climbers can return to the main wall via a dramatic and famous
Tyrolean traverse. ==Slacklining==