Starting from Kakondy near
Boké on the
Rio Nuñez on 19 April 1827, Caillié travelled east along the hills of
Fouta Djallon, passing the head streams of the Senegal River and crossing the
Upper Niger at Kurussa (now
Kouroussa). Caillié reached
Kankan in present-day Guinea on 17 June 1827 travelling with a caravan transporting
kola nuts. He stayed there for a month. The town was an important commercial centre with a market held three times a week. Instead of having a surrounding mud wall, the town was defended by
quickset hedges. Caillié was advised not to travel north along the
Milo River as the town of Kankan was fighting for control of the Bouré gold producing area around
Siguiri and the
Tinkisso River. Instead Caillié left the town heading east in the direction of
Minignan in the Ivory Coast. He wished to visit Djenné but wanted to avoid the town of
Ségou on the Niger River as Ségou was at war with Djenné. He also feared that he might be recognised as a Christian in Ségou as
Mungo Park had visited the town in 1796. Continuing eastwards he reached the
Kong highlands, where at the village of
Tiémé in present-day Ivory Coast, he was detained for five months (3 August 18279 January 1828) by illness. Resuming his journey in January 1828 he went north-east and reached the city of
Djenné, where he stayed 11–23 March. Djenné lies north of the
Bani River to which it is connected by a narrow channel that is only navigable in the wet season. Caillié confused the Bani with the Niger River (which he referred to as the Dhioliba). The Bani joins the Niger downstream from Djenné at
Mopti (Caillié's Isaca). From Djenné he continued his journey to Timbuktu on a boat transporting merchandise and 20 slaves. After two days they arrived at the village of Kouna where the cargo was transferred to a larger vessel. The boat crossed
Lac Débo and then followed the more easterly and smaller branch of the river, the Bara-Issa. At the busy port of
Sa they were joined by 30 or 40 other vessels also heading for Timbuktu as travelling in a flotilla provided some degree of protection against bandits. He arrived in Timbuktu on 20 April 1828. In 1550
Leo Africanus described the inhabitants of Timbuktu as being very rich with a king that possessed large quantities of gold. The perception of Timbuktu as a very wealthy city had been fuelled by various accounts published in the 18th and early 19th centuries. Caillié recorded his first impression of the town: "I had formed a totally different idea of the grandeur and wealth of Timbuktu. The city presented, at first view, nothing but a mass of ill looking houses, built of earth." He compared it unfavorably with Djenne: ... afterwards I took a turn round the city. I found it neither so large nor so populous as I had expected. Its commerce is not so considerable as fame has reported. There was not as at Jenné [Djenné] a concourse of strangers from all parts of the Soudan. I saw in the streets of Timbuctoo only the camels, which had arrived from Cabra [Kabara] laden with the merchandise of the flotilla, a few groups of the inhabitants sitting on mats, conversing together, and Moors lying asleep in the shade before their doors. In a word everything had a dull appearance. and
Sidi Yahya mosques After spending a fortnight in Timbuktu, Caillié left the city on 4 May 1828 accompanying a caravan of 600 camels heading north across the Sahara Desert. After six days the caravan reached
Araouane, a village north of Timbuktu that acted as an
entrepôt in the trans-Sahara trade. When the caravan left Araouane on 19 May it included 1,400 camels and 400 men. It was transporting slaves, gold, ivory, gum, ostrich feathers, clothing and cloth. Caillie reached
Fez on 12 August. From
Tangier he returned by frigate to
Toulon in France. Caillié had been preceded at Timbuktu by a British officer,
Major Gordon Laing, who was murdered in September 1826 on leaving the city. Caillié was the first to return alive. He became a
Knight of the
Legion of Honour by decree on 10 December 1828. He was awarded the prize of 9,000 francs offered by the Société de Géographie to the first traveller to gain exact information of Timbuktu, and in 1830 along with Laing was awarded the society's
gold medal, a pension, and other distinctions. It was at the public expense that his ''Journal d'un voyage à Temboctou et à Jenné dans l'Afrique Centrale, etc.'' (edited by
Edme-François Jomard) was published in three volumes in 1830. The next European to visit Timbuktu was the German explorer
Heinrich Barth who arrived in 1853. When describing the
Djinguereber Mosque Barth wrote: It was here especially that I convinced myself, not only of the trustworthy character of Caillié's report in general, of which I had already had an opportunity of judging, but also the accuracy with which, under very unfavourable circumstances in which he was placed, he has described the various objects that fell under his observation. However, Barth criticised Caillié's picture of Timbuktu showing detached houses "while, in reality, the streets are entirely shut in, as the dwellings form continuous and uninterrupted rows." No European visited Djenné until April 1893 when French troops under the command of
Louis Archinard occupied the town. ==Death and legacy==