Early history , 1929 While the custom of drinking tea in the afternoon may have existed from the late 17th century, tea as a meal is a later invention, dating to the late 18th or early 19th centuries. An early French reference to "afternoon tea" was made by
Madame de Sévigné (1626–1696), who used the term
thé de cinq heures ("five o’clock tea") in her letters.
William H. Ukers notes that
Alexander Carlyle used the term "afternoon tea" in his autobiography. He describes the ladies of
Harrogate serving "afternoon tea or coffee" in 1763. The timing of the tea meal has moved over the centuries in response to the migration of the main meal,
dinner. Until the late 18th century dinner was eaten at what is now called "
lunchtime", or in the early afternoon;
supper was a later and lighter meal. Dinner remains a midday meal in some regions. Gradually, dinner began to migrate, amid much controversy, until by about 1900 it arrived at its present timing, in most places, in the evening. At first, the "tea" meal was often in the early evening, some three or four hours after mid-day dinner; another version of the tea meal was even later, after a supper and before bed. Philosopher
Thomas Carlyle and his wife
Jane Welsh Carlyle invited guests for 7 pm to their teas in the 1850s, although "afternoon tea" before dinner was also becoming established by this time. , 1820 In 1804
Alexandre Balthazar Laurent Grimod de La Reynière wrote (in French) about afternoon tea in Switzerland: Towards five o'clock in the evening, the mistress of the house, in the midst of the sitting-room, makes tea herself, very strong and barely sweetened with a few drops of rich cream; generous slices of buttered bread accompany it. Such is the Swiss Tea in all its simplicity. In most opulent houses, however, coffee and light pastries of all kinds are added, many of which are unknown in Paris, preserved or candied fruits, macaroons, biscuits, nougat, and even ice cream.
Popularisation Anna Russell, the Duchess of Bedford, is commonly cited as the originator of the meal of afternoon tea. Accordingly to the story, at some time in the 1830s or 1840s, the duchess requested a collation of tea and snacks be sent up to her room between the mid-day and evening meals. or 20:00. The custom of afternoon tea first spread among the aristocracy. It was later adopted by others in emulation, and by the 1860s–1870s, it had spread to the middle class. While afternoon tea (also known as "low tea") became popular among the upper and middle classes, the working class adopted a different meal called "
high tea", ratings sitting down to tea at their
mess during
World War I , 1870s Afternoon tea receptions were considered "least formal, most friendly and enjoyable of all entertainments given at home." According to the etiquette guide "The Habits of Good Society", their "chief charm [was] that a tea-party [could] be arranged in two or three days notice."
Helen Simpson says that conversation during traditional afternoon teas was deliberately limited to mundane small talk. English author
Saki satirised the inanity of these exchanges in his short story,
Tea. Guests were not expected to stay long half an hour of pleasant conversation was sufficient. If a guest wished to speak with the hostess or with the special guest in whose honour the tea was held, they would approach at an appropriate moment, but should not detain them for long, especially when there were many visitors in the house. During the height of the summer tea season, ladies would remain in one place for no more than fifteen minutes before proceeding to the next afternoon tea.
Tea gowns were loose-fitting garments, often made of
chiffon, that were traditionally worn by ladies during afternoon teas held at home from 1875 to the 1920s. They served to provide participants a brief reprieve from the uncomfortable corsets regularly worn in the latter half of the 19th century. In London, the
Aerated Bread Company and
Lyons operated popular chains.
A list of significant tea houses in Britain gives more examples. Unlike the earlier
English coffeehouses, these new establishments welcomed female patrons. Outdoor tea gardens also became popular, and were operated at
Hyde Park and
Kensington Gardens.
cricket games, and at the annual garden parties of the
British royal family.
Contemporary significance The popularity of tea, both as a beverage and as a light meal, declined somewhat in the mid-20th century, but from the beginning of the 21st century it has been experiencing a revival: more and more establishments are returning it to their menus, and the people of Britain and the
Commonwealth are showing growing interest in both domestic and public tea services. As in the early 20th century, hotels and restaurants have embraced the trend, and the service often extends beyond dining rooms into lounge areas and common spaces. Guests are willing to pay substantial sums for a modest meal that is easy to prepare in the kitchen and generates income during the lull between lunch and dinner. Tea establishments and restaurants usually offer patrons a choice of at least a dozen tea varieties, including traditional black teas, herbal infusions, rooibos, and green teas. Food and beverage managers in British hotels design menus emphasising variety in dishes as well as tea types. Some establishments even employ tea sommeliers who create a tea menu including varieties from around the world. In Britain, afternoon tea occupies a dual position: on one hand, it is sometimes considered an outdated tradition; on the other hand, it remains an important part of the country's gastronomic identity. Today, the tradition is maintained at the
Ritz Hotel, London, and other hotels. In London, the major hotels compete for the annual Afternoon Tea Awards. In Canada, afternoon tea ceremonies at
the grand railway hotels are a well-known tradition across the country. In the United States, the "afternoon tea industry" is also primarily the province of destination hotels. ==Types==