Mount Logan

The Mount Logan massif is considered to contain all the surrounding peaks with less than of prominence, as listed below: == Discovery and naming ==

Mount Logan is not readily visible from the surrounding lowlands or the coast, due to its position in the heart of the Saint Elias Mountains, although it can be seen from out to sea. Pictures taken across Yakutat Bay to the south southeast suggest it is visible from near Yakutat. Its first reported sighting was in 1890 by American geologist Israel C. Russell, during an expedition to nearby Mount Saint Elias, from the crest of the Pinnacle Pass Hills (). Russel wrote: "The clouds parting toward the northeast revealed several giant peaks not before seen... One stranger, rising in three white domes far above the clouds, was especially magnificent". Russell gave the mountain its present name. In 1894, Mount Logan's elevation was determined to be about , making it the highest known peak in North America at the time. In 1898, Denali was determined to be higher. ==Ascent attempts==

First ascent In 1922, a geologist approached the Alpine Club of Canada with the suggestion that the club send a team to the mountain to reach the summit for the first time. An international team of Canadian, British and American climbers was assembled the following year, initially planning an attempt in 1924 but forced by funding and preparation delays to postpone the trip until 1925. The international team of climbers began their journey in early May, crossing the mainland from the Pacific coast by train. They then walked the remaining to within of the Logan Glacier where they established base camp. In the early evening of June 23, 1925, Albert H. MacCarthy (leader), H.F. Lambart, Allen Carpé, Norman H. Read, W.W. Foster, and Andy Taylor stood on top of the summit for the first time. Subsequent notable ascents and attempts • 1957 East Ridge. Don Monk, Gil Roberts and three others (US) reached the East Peak on July 19 after a 24-day climb. • 1967, July, the first traverse of Mt. Logan was made by Vin Hoemann and William D. Harrison, starting at the "HubSew" ridge over the main summit. Team members Alex Bittenbinder, Dave Shaw, and Ed Ward joined them via the East Ridge. • 1977 Warbler Ridge. Dave Jones, Frank Baumann, Fred Thiessen, Jay Page (all from Canada) and Rene Bucher (Swiss) in 22 days. • 1978 West Ridge. Steve Davis (WA), Jon Waterman, George Sievewright, Roger Hurt (NH). Climbed ridge in 27 days "capsule-style". • 1987 David Cheesmond and Catherine Freer disappeared while attempting to repeat the Hummingbird Ridge. • 1992 June 6, an expedition sponsored by the Royal Canadian Geographical Society confirmed the height of Mount Logan using GPS. The leader was Michael Schmidt, with Lisel Currie, Leo Nadeay, Charlie Roots, J-C. Lavergne, Roger Laurilla, Patrick Morrow, Karl Nagy, Sue Gould, Alan Björn, Lloyd Freese, Kevin McLaughlin and Rick Staley. • 2018 June 14. The first all-US veteran team reached the summit. The six-person team was unguided and part of the US non-profit organization Veterans Expeditions. == Climbing rules ==

In January 2020, due to the cost of search and rescue operations in recent years, Parks Canada announced new rules for climbing Mount Logan: • No solo expeditions • No winter expeditions (which also includes all of Kluane National Park) • Climbers must have insurance to cover the cost of search and rescue. There had been eight rescue missions in the previous seven years in Kluane National Park. Each mission typically cost between $60,000 to $100,000 CAD which is paid for by Canadian taxpayers. A Parks Canada spokesperson said the new rules are to help reduce the financial burden to taxpayers. ==Proposed renaming==

Following the death of Pierre Trudeau, former Prime Minister of Canada, in 2000, then Prime Minister Jean Chrétien, a close friend of Trudeau, proposed renaming the mountain "Mount Trudeau". However, opposition from Yukoners, mountaineers, geologists, Trudeau's political critics, and many other Canadians forced the plan to be dropped. A mountain in the Premier Range of British Columbia was named Mount Pierre Elliott Trudeau instead. ==In popular culture==

X-Men writer Chris Claremont was inspired by Mount Logan for the adopted name of the superhero Wolverine; Claremont said in an interview that "the idea was the tallest mountain being the name of the shortest character". ==See also==