Mulligatawny was popular in India by the end of the 18th century, Recipes for mulligatawny varied greatly at that time and over the years (e.g.,
Maria Rundell's
A New System of Domestic Cookery contained three versions), and later versions of the soup included British modifications that included meat, although the local Madras (modern
Chennai) recipe on which it was based did not. In 1827,
William Kitchiner wrote that it had become fashionable in Britain: In 1878,
Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert (1840–1916), under the pen name Wyvern, wrote in his popular
Culinary Jottings that "really well-made
mulligatunny is ... a thing of the past." He wrote that this simple recipe prepared by poorer natives of Madras as made by "Mootoosamy" was made by pounding: == Ingredients ==