DuPont and the invention of nylon Researchers at
DuPont began developing cellulose-based fibers, culminating in the synthetic fiber
rayon. DuPont's experience with rayon was an important precursor to its development and marketing of nylon. DuPont's invention of nylon spanned an eleven-year period, ranging from the initial research program in polymers in 1927 to its announcement in 1938, shortly before the opening of the
1939 New York World's Fair. The project grew from a new organizational structure at DuPont, suggested by
Charles Stine in 1927, in which the chemical department would be composed of several small research teams that would focus on "pioneering research" in chemistry and would "lead to practical applications". Nylon was the first commercially successful synthetic
thermoplastic polymer. DuPont began its research project in 1927. In response to Carothers' work,
Paul Schlack at
IG Farben developed
nylon 6, a different molecule based on
caprolactam, on January 29, 1938. In the spring of 1930, Carothers and his team had already synthesized two new polymers. The first was
neoprene, a synthetic rubber widely used during World War II. The second was an elastic paste that became very strong upon cooling; this would later become nylon. After these discoveries, Carothers' team was made to shift its research from a more pure research approach investigating general polymerization to a more practically focused goal of finding "one chemical combination that would lend itself to industrial applications". This cold drawing method was later used by Carothers in 1935 to fully develop nylon. The first example of nylon (nylon 6.6) was produced on February 28, 1935, at DuPont's research facility at the DuPont Experimental Station. Nylon was first used commercially in a nylon-
bristled
toothbrush in 1938, followed more famously in women's
stockings or "nylons" which were shown at the 1939 New York World's Fair and first sold commercially in 1940, whereupon they became an instant commercial success with 64 million pairs sold during their first year on the market. During World War II, almost all nylon production was diverted to the military for use in
parachutes and
parachute cord. Wartime uses of nylon and other
plastics greatly increased the market for the new materials. The production of nylon required interdepartmental collaboration between three departments at DuPont: the Department of Chemical Research, the Ammonia Department, and the Department of Rayon. Some of the key ingredients of nylon had to be produced using
high pressure chemistry, the main area of expertise of the Ammonia Department. Nylon was considered a "godsend to the Ammonia Department",
Early marketing strategies An important part of nylon's popularity stems from DuPont's marketing strategy. DuPont promoted the fiber to increase demand before the product was available to the general market. Nylon's commercial announcement occurred on October 27, 1938, at the final session of the
Herald Tribunes yearly "Forum on Current Problems", on the site of the approaching New York City world's fair. and was featured at DuPont's "Wonder World of Chemistry" at the
Golden Gate International Exposition in San Francisco in 1939. Actual
nylon stockings were not shipped to selected stores in the national market until May 15, 1940. However, a limited number were released for sale in Delaware before that. While nylon was marketed as the durable and indestructible material of the people, it was sold at about one-and-a-half times the price of
silk stockings ($4.27 per pound of nylon versus $2.79 per pound of silk). However, as of February 11, 1942, nylon production was redirected from being a consumer material to one used by the military. Although nylon stockings already made before the war could be purchased, they were generally sold on the black market for as high as $20. Between the end of the war and 1952, production of stockings and lingerie used 80% of the world's nylon. DuPont put focus on catering to the civilian demand, and continually expanded its production.
Introduction of nylon blends As pure nylon hosiery was sold in a wider market, problems became apparent. Nylon stockings were found to be fragile, in the sense that the thread often tended to unravel lengthwise, creating 'runs'. Moisture stayed inside the fabric near the skin under hot or moist conditions instead of being "wicked" away. Nylon fabric could also be itchy and tended to cling and sometimes spark as a result of static electrical charge built up by friction. Also, under some conditions, nylon could degrade, perforating or shredding stockings. The solution found to problems with pure nylon fabric was to blend nylon with other existing fibers or polymers such as
cotton,
polyester, and
spandex. This led to the development of a wide array of blended fabrics. The new nylon blends retained the desirable properties of nylon (elasticity, durability, ability to be dyed) and kept clothes prices low and affordable. Fabric blends included mixes like "Bunara" (wool-rabbit-nylon) and "Casmet" (wool-nylon-fur). DuPont's Fabric Development Department cleverly targeted French fashion designers, supplying them with fabric samples. In 1955, designers such as
Coco Chanel,
Jean Patou, and
Christian Dior showed gowns created with DuPont fibers, and fashion photographer
Horst P. Horst was hired to document their use of DuPont fabrics.
Etymology DuPont went through an extensive process to generate names for its new product. A persistent
urban legend exists that the name is derived from "New York" and "London"; however, no organization in London was ever involved in the research and production of nylon.
Longer-term popularity Nylon’s popularity soared in the 1940s and 1950s due to its durability and sheerness. In the 1970s, it became more popular due to its flexibility and price. In spite of oil shortages in the 1970s, consumption of nylon textiles continued to grow by 7.5% per year between the 1960s and 1980s. Overall production of synthetic fibers, however, dropped from 63% of the worlds textile production in 1965, to 45% of the world's textile production in early 1970s. Although pure nylon has many flaws and is now rarely used, its derivatives have greatly influenced and contributed to society. From scientific discoveries relating to the production of plastics and polymerization, to economic impact during the depression and the changing of women's fashion, nylon was a revolutionary product. One historian describes nylon as "an object of desire", comparing the invention to Coca-Cola in the eyes of 20th century consumers. == Chemistry ==