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Ogulin

Ogulin is a town in central Croatia, in Karlovac County. It has a population of 7,389 (2021), and a total municipal population of 12,251 (2021). Ogulin is known for its historic stone castle, known as Kula, and the nearby mountain of Klek.

Toponymy
There are several proposed etymologies for the name of Ogulin. Firstly that the surrounding woods needed to be cleared for a better defence of the town, so Ogulin received its name because of the resulting bare area ("ogolio" in Croatian) around it. There were a lot of lime-trees along the road from Ogulin towards Oštarije, and the people used to peel the bark, in order to get bass. It is suggested that Ogulin got its name from the verb to peel ("guliti" in Croatian). Neither proposal is historically confirmed. ==History==
History
Ogulin's history dates back to the fifteenth century, when it struggled against the Ottoman Turks. The exact timing of the building of the Ogulin tower has not been established. However, a document issued by Bernardin Frankopan in his town of Modruš at around 1500 AD marked off the boundaries of new castle between Modruš and Vitunj, and this is, at the same time, the first historical mention of Ogulin. Ogulin is known for the legend of Đula (also Zuleika or Zula) who threw herself into the abyss of the River Dobra because of an unhappy love affair. • Gašpar I Frankopan (1580) 1609–1611) • Martin Gall von Gallenstein (1611) • Thadialonich In August 1876, The nearest savings banks were in Karlovac (opened August 1872), and the Zagreb Commercial Bank, founded March 1873). Credit unions existed in Karlovac and Jastrebarsko (opened 1875). Civil Hungary In the late 19th century, a Matica hrvatska branch opened in Ogulin, with 55 members in 1891. Until 1918, Ogulin was part of the Austrian monarchy (Kingdom of Croatia-Slavonia, Modruš-Rijeka County, after the compromise of 1867), in the Croatian Military Frontier. It was administered by the Oguliner Grenz-Infanterie-Regiment N°III before 1881. WWII During WWII, 2743 people were killed in the kotar of Ogulin, of which 1592 by Croats, 671 by Italians, 438 by Germans and 41 by Serbs. It was in Ogulin that Ante Pavelić gave his first speech on 13 April 1941 as he travelled to Zagreb. He was greeted by priest Ivan Mikan, who served in Ogulin from 1937 until his death in 1943, and wore a cylindrical hat for the occasion, believing the arrival of Pavelić would be solemn only to feel silly when it wasn't. Two or three hymns were sung and then Pavelić gave his speech, full of threats against the Serbs and praise for the Italians who brought him there (no Germans were in attendance). The HPD "Klek" was renamed Hrvatsko planinarsko društvo u Ogulinu in March 1942. 1942 At 17:00 on 10 June, 3 Ogulin residents, Joso Jurašić, Ivan Oskoruš and Ivica Miškulin, were cutting wood on the Čokolka hill near Ogulin when they encountered 4 Partisans in civilian uniform but Partisan caps, who commanded them to raise their hands in the air, asking them if they were Ustaše. When they replied that they weren't, they told Jurašić to come with them because he had been an Ustaša earlier, letting the other two go. On the 13th, Partisans confiscated 18 head of large and 22 of small livestock from a meadow in the immediate vicinity of Ogulin. During the Battle of Tržić on 19–23 June 1942, the Domobran commander Ivan Stipac was wounded in the leg and captured by Partisans of the , who took him to Tobolić. At 10:00 on 24 June, a group of 150 Italian soldiers armed with rifles and machine guns entered the forest on Kobiljak hill to cut firewood, but were attacked by Partisans. A battle ensued, in which 4 Italians and 5 of their donkeys were killed, 6 were wounded, 20 captured and 20 captured but released completely naked. One Partisan was killed and one captured and taken to Ogulin for questioning. When the German and Italian Zones of Influence were revised on 24 June 1942, Ogulin fell in , administered civilly by Croatia but militarily by Italy. On 2–3 July, the Italian garrison in Ogulin repelled a Partisan attack on Ogulin itself, following which the Partisans retreated to Klek. On 14 September, Italian troops began taking away to Italy certain individuals in Ogulin with family members in the rebellion. At 3:00 on the 17th, a group of about 250 Partisans attacked the village of Boršt, repelled by the Domobrani stationed in the village without losses. ==Geography==
Geography
mountain The town of Ogulin is situated in the very centre of mainland Croatia, between Zagreb and Rijeka. It was founded in a large valley formed by two rivers: the Dobra and Zagorska Mrežnica. The administrative constitution of the town of Ogulin covers the area of 543.32 km2, and has about 14,000 inhabitants according to 2011 census. This is a kind of transitional micro-region neighbouring the larger regions of Croatia - Gorski Kotar, Lika, Kordun and Gornje Pokuplje. The Ogulin-Modruš valley is the northern section of the Ogulin-Plaški valley, which finishes towards the south where the Modruš hills pass into the second largest field of the area under Kapela-Plaški Polje. This comprises a completed geographical whole border on the western side by the mountain massif of Velika Kapela dominated by Klek (1181 m). Its eastern edges are bordered by the mounts of Krpel (), Brezovica () and Hum (). The valley then passes to the hilly are dominated by Klekinja () and Trojvrh (). This valley is also called Ogulin's Plain (in Croatian: Ogulinsko Polje). This is the fifth largest karst valley in Croatia (), and it lies above sea level. Its elongated form lies in the direction northwest-southeast, and it is long (Ogulin-Trojvrh) and wide (Desmerice-Skradnik). The Dobra River runs through and disappears in the center of the town. Approximately three kilometers south of the town centre is an artificial lake Sabljaci, formed with the purpose of accumulating water from the Zagorska Mrežnica river, and for the sake of generating electricity in the Hydroelectric power plant Gojak. The lake is connected with the town's other artificial lake, lake Bukovnik, via a tunnel. Lake Bukovnik is approximately one kilometer away from lake Sabljaci, and is connected to the hydroelectric power plant Gojak also with a tunnel, approximately 10 km long. The surface area of lake Sabljaci is around 170 ha, which makes it the 11th Croatian lake when compared by size. The lake contains many kinds of fish species, and it is also used for swimming and various water sports. • Elevation: 323 m (1060 ft) above sea level • Latitude: 45° 15' 59" • Longitude: 15° 13' 44" Speleology Ogulin's is an extensive cave system underneath the city. A botanical expedition was conducted at its mouth on 30 September 1900 by Antun Heinz and his assistant. ==Climate==
Climate
Since records began in 1949, the highest temperature recorded at the local weather station at an elevation of was , on 5 July 1950. The coldest temperature was , on 17 February 1956. A weather station exists there at an elevation of . The minimum recorded temperature for the winter of 2024–2025 was , on February 20. Flora Some of the more unusual species that have been found in Ogulin include Eryngium amethystinum and the xerophyte Asplenium ceterach, found there on a botanical expedition in 1900. ==Demographics==
Demographics
According to the 2011 census, Croats comprise 80.2% and Serbs 17.7% of the municipality population. Serbs form a majority in many villages, most of them are upland. The settlements in the municipality are (as of 2021): In 1895, the obćina of Ogulin, with an area of , belonged to the kotar of Ogulin (Ogulin court and electoral district) in the županija of Modruš-Rieka (Ogulin high court and financial board). There were 1138 houses, with a population of 8216. Its 9 villages and 26 hamlets were divided for taxation purposes into 6 porezne obćine, under the Ogulin office. In the Ogulin kotar, there were a total of 6082 houses, with a population of 40,325. Its 92 villages and 263 hamlets were divided into 37 porezne obćine. The kotar's only statistical market was in Ogulin. Ogulin kotar was divided into 9 općine. Besides itself: Dubrave, Generalski Stol, Gomirje, Josipdol, Modruš, Oštarije, Plaški, Tounj. In 1910, the court of Ogulin encompassed an area of , with a population of 45,107. Ogulin had its own cadastral jurisdiction and business court. By early 1919, 4929 people had emigrated from Ogulin Kotar to the United States and 974 to other countries. ==Governance==
Governance
National Representatives of Ogulin at the Sabor and Skupština: • Vito Sertić (1848) • Stjepan Vučetić (1884–1892), NS Representatives of Ogulin pukovnija at the Sabor: • Ilija Hranilović, Stipan Fabiani, Petar Matić and Đuro Maravić (1848) • Adam Gašparović, Jovo Trbojević, Petar Vrdoljak and Vaso Maravić (1861) • Nestor Borojević, Antun Ratković and Franjo Mihanović (1865–1867) 1920 At the 1920 Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes Constitutional Assembly election in Modruš-Rijeka County, Ogulin voted mainly for the Democratic Party and Croatian Peoples' Peasant Party, though a significant number voted for the Party of Rights. Municipal Ogulin kotar was subordinated to Modruš-Rijeka County until 1922 when the latter was replaced with , which was unpopular with most Croats and was as a concession replaced in 1929 with the Sava Banovina. At the time, Ogulin was divided into 10 općine: Generalski Stol, Gomirje, Gornje Dubrave, Drežnica, Josipdol, Modruš, Ogulin, Oštarije, Plaški and Tounj. ==Culture==
Culture
Parish Church of the Extolling Saint Cross This church was built in 1781 in the middle of the town, in the Park of King Tomislav. Consecrated on June 1, 179, it reflects the spirit of the time with its pleasing external appearance and the richness of various sculptural decorations. The town of Ogulin celebrates September 14 as the fest day of its patron Saint of Extolling of the Cross. Saint Bernard Chapel Bernardin Frankopan, the son of Stjepan, and the founder of the town of Ogulin, erected a chapel in 16th century both for nobleman and ordinary people within the castle. It is devoted to St Bernardin. This chapel was the parish church from 1521 until the building of the church of St Cross in 1781. Today, only the altar has been preserved. Saint Rocco Chapel This chapel was built at the entrance to the town in the first half of 19th century as a votive church against cholera. Frankopan Castle The Castle was built between 1493 and 1500 above the gorge of the River Dobra - Đula's abyss. The founder of the town was Bernardin Frankopan, one of the mightiest people of his time, and the feudal master of Modruš, Plaški, Vitunj, Tounj, Zvečaj, Bosiljevo, Novigrad and Dubovac. The Frankopans resided in the castle until 1533, when it was relinquished to the soldiers of the Military Frontier. Considering that the County Museum of Ogulin is the only museum in the entire area between the cities of Rijeka and Karlovac, it is the only institution that works on preserving the valuable cultural and historic heritage of that wider area, and as such its task is to collect, process, present and publish the historical and cultural works, documents, and other artistic artefacts from the area of Ogulin and its neighbouring areas. King Tomislav Monument The monument was erected in 1925, for the 1000th anniversary of the founding of the Croatian kingdom. It stands in the Park of King Tomislav which was planned and arranged in the 18th century. The monument was made according to the design of the Slovenian architect Vitburg Meck, and was repaired in 1990. Cesarovac Fountain This classic building is also erected in the Park. It represents a memorial to the Ogulin aqueduct and was built by colonel Stevan Šuplikac from Ogulin in 1847. Water flowed from the spring through wooden tubes which were lately replaced by the clay, and in 1882 by the iron tubes. For Cesarovac source is connected and a legend. Water flows into the source, comes from a source located at the foot of the mountain Klek. And as on the mountain Klek lived a witch, so the water is magical. Legend says, that women who drink the water from the springs, will remain forever young. And men who drink water from springs, water will be captured to forever remain in this city, who you will fall in love with a woman from Ogulin, and by the end of life remain to live in Ogulin. ==Sports==
Sports
The local chapter of the HPS is HPD "Klek", which had 74 members in 1936 under the Franjo Steka presidency. At the time, it had a ski section. Membership fell to 48 in 1937. In 1939, it was dormant and almost in liquidation. ==Infrastructure==
Infrastructure
Forestry The forestry offices of Ogulin srez were in Ogulin, Drežnica and Jasenak. Health In the time of the Banovina of Croatia, Ogulin had a national hospital, a school clinic and a venereal hospice. Security In 1913, there were 8 gendarmeries in Delnice kotar: Ogulin, Drežnica, Generalski Stol, Jasenak, Saborsko, Josipdol, Modruš and Plaški. Education In the school year of 1939–1940, there were 43 schools on the territory of Ogulin srez (9 in Ogulin plus a lower real school, separate female and male trade schools, 8 in Plaški plus Građanska škola, 5 in Drežnica, 3 in Generalski Stol, 2 in Gomirje, 4 in Gornje Dubrave, 5 in Josipdol, 3 in Modruš, 2 in Oštarije, 2 in Tounj), with 105 teachers, of which 65 Catholic, 39 Orthodox and 1 other non-Muslim; there were 5647 students, of which 2999 Catholic and 2648 Orthodoxh. 1152 students obligated to attend did not, or 16.9% of the obligated population, which by national standards was very high. Transportation The town is connected via A1 freeway and state road D45. It also has a bus station and a train station on M202 railway. ==Notable people==
Notable people
Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić - writer • Vladimir Goldner - physician, academic and professor • Josip Kregar - lawyer and politician • Elza Polak - horticulturist • Ema Pukšec (also known as Ilma De Murska) - opera singer • Barbara Radulović - television host • Petar Stipetić - general • Ante Pavić - tennis player • Luka Cindrić - handball player • Ivan Gošnjak ==Notes==
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