An Oxford shoe is a type of lace-up shoe characterized by having eyestays, attached under the vamp, a feature termed "closed lacing". An Oxford shoe with a common quarter-vamp section joined to the eyestays by a single horizontal seam is sometimes called a Balmoral shoe, particularly in the U.K. This contrasts with derbies and bluchers, which have "open lacing," or eyestays attached atop the vamp. Originally, Oxfords were plain, formal shoes, made of leather, but they evolved into a range of styles suitable for formal, uniform, or casual wear. On the basis of function and the dictates of fashion, Oxfords are now made from a variety of materials, including calf leather, faux and genuine patent leather, suede, and canvas. They are normally black or brown, and may be plain or patterned (brogue).