Origin The Day of the Dead is an example of Spanish-indigenous cultural mixing. Wheat and the baking culture were introduced to America by the Spanish, so it is not uncommon to see that many classic
Mexican breads, such as
cemita,
pan bazo or
telera, have their respective counterparts in Spain. For its part, the
pan de muerto has its origin in the
pan de ánimas ('soul bread'), a
votive product (an offering) that was formerly prepared for All Saints and Faithful Departed (November 1 and 2) in areas of
Castile,
Portugal,
Aragon and
Sicily (among other places) to honor to deceased loved ones. The parishioners came annually to the cemetery and put bread, wine and flowers on the graves. The bread was blessed by the local priest, so it was also known as
pan bendecido ("blessed bread"). During the
Viceroyalty of New Spain, the
pan de ánimas was used by the Spanish as an offering for their dead, and was assimilated by the indigenous people because of their pre-Hispanic beliefs. At first, the breads produced in Mexico were crude and poorly developed doughs, but over time, the country strengthened its baking tradition by making increasingly refined pieces. In certain Mexican states, such as
Puebla or
Tlaxcala (both with noticeable Spanish influence),
pan de muertos is still occasionally called
pan de ánimas.
Folk history A frequently repeated myth explains that the Mexican bread of the dead dates back to the
pre-Hispanic custom of human sacrifice: "A maiden was offered to the gods, and they placed her still beating heart in a pot with
amaranth, they had to bite it as a symbol of gratitude". Legend has it that the
conquistadors, disgusted with the cannibalistic practice, forced the natives to replace the heart with a nice sweet bun. Although this origin is not true, it serves to interpret the "ritual" meaning of the dead bread, since it is an allegory of the deceased person: the circular shape symbolizes the cycle of life and death; the ball of dough in the center is the skull, as well as the decoration that represents the bones, symbolically arranged in the shape of a cross. Thus, the bread comes to embody the dead person himself. In the words of José Luis Curiel Monteagudo: "Eating the dead is a true pleasure for the Mexican, it is considered the anthropophagy of bread and sugar. The phenomenon is assimilated with respect and irony, death is challenged, they make fun of it by eating it." Various Mexican public institutions omit the Hispano-Christian origin of
pan de muerto, attributing it to pre-Hispanic preparations. For example, the
National Institute of Indigenous Peoples relates the bread of the dead with the
papalotlaxcalli. According to the chronicles of
Fray Bernardino de Sahagún, the
papalotlaxcalli was literally a butterfly (
papalotl)-shaped
tortilla (
tlaxcalli) that was offered to women who died in childbirth or
Cihuapipiltin. Likewise, the blog of the Cuautitlán Izcalli University points out another possible ancestor of the
pan de muerto, the
huitlatamalli, a votive
tamale. and it is the most widespread theory today. The Spanish
pan de ánimas is not mentioned at any time in the theories disclosed by these three entities. However, the very composition of the ingredients of the
pan de muerto reveals its origin: wheat, cane sugar, cow's milk and butter, eggs and orange aroma. All these products arrived in America in what is known as the "
Columbian exchange". According to Dr. , although much weight has been given to pre-Hispanic ideas in the celebration of the Day of the Dead, the influence that the Spanish culture and Catholic religion has exerted in colonial Mexico is also very important. According to this author, in an essay published by the
National Institute of Anthropology and History: "continuing to think that [the
pan de muerto] is a tradition of pre-Hispanic origin means that we did not understand anything, since it is profoundly Roman". In Latin communities in Los Angeles, for example, many public altars serve as protests, such as those dedicated to the victims of
police brutality. As a form of cultural outreach and collaboration with local communities, some American museums and institutions create public altars that include pan de muerto. ==Regional variations==