Historically, the science of grading developed with the advent of the
tape measure, the introduction of scientific tailoring systems, commercial patterns and the mass-production of pattern-built clothing in the 19th century. To properly fit a pattern to a range of sizes, each piece needed to be graded, meaning systematically increased or decreased. A German mathematician Dr. Henry Wampen wrote two influential works, ''The Mathematical Art of Cutting Garments According to the Different Formation of Men's Bodies
(1834) and Mathematical Instructions in Constructing Models for Draping the Human Figure'' (1863). Wampen introduced the principle of gradation via these works. Prior to this,
sewing patterns were made to fit a specific individual, and were originally made on cloth, and only later on paper. A
tailor or
dressmaker recorded a customer's measurements on a thin strip of
parchment and kept it with the pattern pieces, noting any changes in measurements and adjusting the pattern pieces accordingly. This required a good eye and many years' experience. Frequently an
apprentice tailor's
indenture specified that the apprentice would inherit the
master's patterns upon the latter's demise, while enjoining
complete confidentiality upon the former; patterns could also be passed down via family
inheritance. Patterns were available for purchase in a variety of sizes, one size per package. In 1867, the Butterick firm began marketing its patterns via its own line of monthly and quarterly magazines. It was not until the 1970s, when sales were lagging, that multi-size graded patterns became available. == Methods of grading ==