Origins (1950s and early 1960s) subculture was influential upon the peacock revolution|150px In the 1950s and early 1960s, the dominant style of menswear was business suits in dark and neutral colours, polo shirts and jumpers, with bright colours only been present occasionally, with patterned shirts like Hawaiian, plaid or striped. The earliest signs of rebellion against this hegemony in England was through the emergence of the
Teddy Boy subculture, who wore suits in the style of the
Edwardian era, while also embracing elements of fashions in the United States and continental Europe. Under the influence of the Teddy Boys, other subcultures began to emerge in Britain, including the
rockers, and most relevantly, the
mods. The peacock revolution began from an intersection of 1950s
queer fashion, the
sexual revolution and the mod subculture. The popularity of the mod subculture had allowed for straight men to show an interest in fashion, and the sexual revolution allowed for men to present themselves in an overtly sexual manner. By 1957, Scottish entrepreneur
John Stephen began opening shops on
Carnaby Street in London and using these developments to advertise gay styles of fashion to straight men. Works published by the
BBC,
Victoria and Albert Museum and
the Week all credit Stephen as the pioneer of the peacock revolution. The designs of
Michael Fish were also an important part of the growing movement. Fish began designing for
Turnbull & Asser in 1962, where he began to experiment with more androgynous elements, such as floral designs, which he further after founding his own boutique Mr Fish in 1964. One running theme in Fisher's designs was the embrace of aspects of
late 17th century fashion such as cravats,
bizarre silks, military braids, brocade and high collared shirts.
Christopher Gibbs too was an influential designer, introducing double breasted waistcoats, Turkish shirts and cloth covered buttons into the movement. In a 1968 article by
Newsweek, the publication credited
Oleg Cassini with helping to lead the movement.
Peak popularity (mid–1960s) ,
Brian Jones and
Michael Cooper (L–R) in 1967, wearing peacock revolution clothing |left Mods quickly adopted these styles and soon London's
Soho area became renowned for its
androgynous fashions. As the style became increasingly popular, many prominent womenswear designers, including
Pierre Cardin and
Bill Blass began also producing menswear in the style. Cardin in particular would become an influential designer during the era, popularising the
Nehru jacket which allowed for wearers to experiment with neck accessories like necklaces and medallions instead of ties. By the mid-1960s, Stephen owned fifteen shops on Carnaby Street and clothes from these stores were being worn publicly by
the Rolling Stones,
the Beatles,
Cliff Richard,
Sean Connery and
Antony Armstrong-Jones, 1st Earl of Snowdon. In 1964, Stephen claimed he "dressed about 90 percent of England's popstars". Soon,
King's Road too began to develop similar boutiques. By 1966, Carnaby Street King's Road had become two of the most influential locations for fashion of the entire decade, largely popularised by the Rolling Stones and the Beatles, as well as
the Who and
Small Faces.
Mary Quant later stated of Stephen, "He made Carnaby Street. He was Carnaby Street. He invented a look for young men which was wildly exuberant, dashing and fun." Peacock revolution fashion reached the United States around 1964 with the beginning of the
British Invasion, entering major fashion publications including
GQ by 1966. Clothes were often sold in boutiques marked "John Stephen of Carnaby Street" and in department stores including
Abraham & Straus,
Dayton's,
Carson Pirie Scott and
Stern's. Furthermore,
Lord John clothing began to be sold at
Macy's, as
Sears too began producing clothing in the style. By the mid–to late 1960s, the more radical end of the peacock revolution in the United States developed the
hippie subculture. During the
Rolling Stones' July 5, 1969 performance in
Hyde Park, London, Jagger wore a white dress featuring bishop's sleeves and a bow-laced front which was designed by Fish. In a 2013 article,
The Daily Telegraph writer Mick Brown stated that is moment "epitomised the
swinging Sixties" and going on to call Jagger "King of the Peacocks".
Later years and decline (late 1960s to mid–1970s) A decline in popularity of the peacock revolution's more extreme fashion styles was beginning as early as the 1967 release of
Bonnie and Clyde. The film's costuming began a revived interest the fashions of the 1930s, and a rise in popularity of the designs
Ralph Lauren and Bill Blass who began embracing such influence. A 1970 article by
Life magazine cited a recent revived interest in peacock revolution fashion, citing women's greater attraction to the style and the hippie subculture's fashion "proving that a fellow can wear any outlandish costume in public" as the reasoning. Between 1972 and 1974, a second wave of popular musicians, including
David Bowie,
Elton John and
Gary Glitter, portraying the movement emerged as a part of the
glam rock genre, that trickled down to the general public. Nostalgia for the fashions of the 1920s to the 1940s was eventually exacerbated by
The Godfather (1972),
The Sting (1973) and
The Great Gatsby (1974) and the 1972 death of
Edward VIII. By 1975, the release of John T Molloy's bestselling book
Dress for Success, marked a general return to conservative men's fashion by popularising
power dressing. ==Legacy==