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Pheran

Pheran or Phiran is the traditional outfit for both males and females in Kashmir.

Etymology and history
Pheran is a corruption of the Persian word 'perahan' which means cloak. The outfit has been in vogue in Kashmir since before the 15th century. Before the advent of Islamic influence, the people of Kashmir used to wear a loose gown-type leather doublet instead of pheran, as recorded by Hiuen-Tsang. According to some sources, the pheran was introduced by Mughal emperor Akbar when he conquered the valley in 1586. However, according to historian Prithivi Nath Kaul Bamzai, with the arrival of Sufi saints and Muslim theologians from Persia and Central Asia, Kashmiris adopted their long robes and round turbans. The long robe, in particular, is considered the precursor to the Pheran, which is now the traditional attire of Kashmiris. ==Designs==
Designs
Head dress woman, 1922 Taranga Hindu women use a headwear called "taranga" (), which is a headdress which becomes smaller down at back, towards the heels. It is popular in some areas of Kashmir. Kasaba Kashmiri Muslim women use a headwear known as the "kasaba" (). The kasaba is padded by means of a turban and is pinned together by brooches. A veil made of pashmina or Silk is pinned to the top of the kasaba that descends towards the back of the neck. There are two types of kasaba: "Thoud kasaba" and "Bonn kasaba". Thoud kasaba (high kasaba) sits on the head like a crown, worn only by married women belonging to elite families. House of khwajawal in Naid kadal made the most beautiful kasabas. Bonn kasaba (low kasaba) sits on head like a bandana, worn by commoners and tribal women. Kundan kasaba were only made by house of Kundanghar in Khwaja bazar. made of either wool or jamewar, which is a mixture of wool and cotton, Female pheran dresses are designed with colorful flowerlike designed elements and styles. Male pheran dresses are quite simple, without any colourful design. The traditional pheran falls to the feet like a gown. This style was universally worn by the Kashmiri Hindu and Kashmiri Muslim communities into the later 19th century C.E. However, a modern version worn by Muslims is knee-length, loose and stitched on the front side ane finishes, while Hindus often still wear their pherans long, extending down the legs. Ankle length Pherans are tied at the waist. Intricate embroideries or flower styles are a popular on Kashmiri ladies pherans. The embroideries or flower designs are made of thin metal threads; this kind of embroidery is known as 'Tille' in Kashmiri language. Over time, the art of embellishing pherans has evolved, with a variety of embroidery styles enhancing their elegance. Some of the most prominent embroidery types found on modern pherans include: • Tilla embroidery – Traditional Kashmiri gold or silver threadwork, popular on festive and bridal pherans. • Aari embroidery – Intricate chain-stitch embroidery, giving the pheran a refined, handcrafted look. • Zari embroidery – A delicate and luxurious style using gold or silver threads, similar to Tilla but often more intricate. • Sozni embroidery – A fine needlework technique, used mainly to enhance woolen pherans with artistic patterns. With time, designers and artisans have introduced new styles, blending tradition with modern aesthetics, making the pheran a versatile outfit worn for both casual and festive occasions. Poots The poots () is the same as the pheran but made of lighter material; it is worn beneath the pheran. It is generally used to protect the pheran from burns from the kangri. It also provides extra warmth during winters, double layer insulation from the cold winter days. Suthan/shalwar Traditionally, the pheran and poots were worn without a lower garment. Indeed, in neighbouring Hunza too, women did not wear pajamas until 1890 and in Nagar until 1925. Since the latter part of the 19th century, loose suthans (shalwars) and churidar pajamas of the Punjab region became popular in Kashmir. Accordingly, the suthan or churidar pajama can form part of the pheran ensemble but is not a must. The Kashmiri suthan is baggy and loose and is similar to the Dogri suthan worn in the Jammu region. Some versions are similar to the shalwars worn in Afghanistan. However, since the 1960s, the straight cut Punjabi salwar has become popular. ==Modern fashion==
Modern fashion
Modern trends saw a decline in the use of pherans in favour of the shalwar kameez. However, there has been a revival in recent years as pherans have become part of modern fashion, and are worn by females of other areas of Kashmir as well. Kashmiri men are also wearing the pheran as a fashionable outfit. Combined with jeans, the pheran has made its way into the office world. The modern pheran is not as wide and long as the traditional ankle or knee-length version and sometimes has side slits. Fewer men are wearing the phiran with a shalwar. Modern pherans, known as Raglan Pherans (LARK) are a hybrid of western raglan coat and traditional wear. ==Photo gallery==
Photo gallery
File:Pheran.jpg|A young Kashmiri man wearing Pheran somewhere in Chenab Valley's Doda district File:Kashmiri Muslim women in traditional long Phiran 1870.jpg|Kashmiri Muslim women in traditional long pheran, 1870 File:039-HINDOO WOMEN FROM CASHMERE.jpg|1919 drawing of Kashmiri Pandit women wearing intricately decorated pherans File:KashmirPundit1895BritishLibrary.jpg|Kashmiri Pandit men in Kashmir, 1895 File:Pherans.jpg|A young man wearing a fitted, fur-collared, fashionable Pheran in Chenab Valley's Bhaderwah ==See also==
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