So-called "correct" exposure may be defined as an exposure that achieves the effect the photographer intended. A more technical approach recognises that a photographic film (or sensor) has a physically limited
useful exposure range, sometimes called its
dynamic range. If, for any part of the photograph, the actual exposure is outside this range, the film cannot record it accurately. In a very simple model, for example, out-of-range values would be recorded as "black" (underexposed) or "white" (overexposed) rather than the precisely graduated shades of colour and tone required to describe "detail". Therefore, the purpose of exposure adjustment (and/or lighting adjustment) is to control the physical amount of light from the subject that is allowed to fall on the film, so that 'significant' areas of shadow and highlight detail do not exceed the film's useful exposure range. This ensures that no 'significant' information is lost during capture. The photographer may carefully overexpose or underexpose the photograph to what they judge as insignificant or unwanted detail; to make, for example, a white altar cloth appear immaculately clean, or to emulate the heavy, pitiless shadows of
film noir. However, it is technically much easier to discard recorded information during
post processing than to try to 're-create' unrecorded information. In a scene with strong or harsh lighting, the between highlight and shadow luminance values may well be larger than the ratio between the film's maximum and minimum useful exposure values. In this case, adjusting the camera's exposure settings (which only applies changes to the whole image, not selectively to parts of the image) only allows the photographer to choose between underexposed shadows or overexposed highlights; it cannot bring both into the useful exposure range at the same time. Methods for dealing with this situation include: using what is called
fill lighting to increase the illumination in shadow areas; using a
graduated neutral-density filter, flag, scrim, or
gobo to reduce the illumination falling upon areas deemed too bright; or varying the exposure between multiple, otherwise identical, photographs (
exposure bracketing) and then combining them afterwards in an
HDRI process.
Overexposure and underexposure A photograph may be described as
overexposed when it has a loss of highlight detail, that is, when important bright parts of an image are "washed out" or effectively all white, known as "blown-out highlights" or "
clipped whites". A photograph may be described as
underexposed when it has a loss of shadow detail, that is, when important dark areas are "muddy" or indistinguishable from black, known as "blocked-up shadows" (or sometimes "crushed shadows", "crushed blacks", or "clipped blacks", especially in video). As the adjacent image shows, these terms are technical ones rather than artistic judgments; an overexposed or underexposed image may be "correct" in the sense that it provides the effect that the photographer intended.
Intentionally over- or underexposing (relative to a standard or the camera's automatic exposure) is casually referred to as "
exposing to the right" or "exposing to the left" respectively, as these shift the histogram of the image to the right or left. ==Exposure settings==