Antiquity Early pies were in the form of flat, round or freeform crusty cakes called
galettes consisting of a crust of ground
oats,
wheat,
rye, or
barley containing
honey inside. These galettes developed into a form of early sweet
pastry or
desserts, evidence of which can be found on the tomb walls of the
Pharaoh Ramesses II, who ruled from 1304 to 1237 BC, located in the
Valley of the Kings. The Romans made a plain pastry of flour, oil, and water to cover meats and fowls which were baked, thus keeping in the juices. The Roman approach of covering "...birds or hams with dough" has been called more of an attempt to prevent the meat from drying out during baking than an actual pie in the modern sense. The first written reference to a Roman pie is for a rye dough that was filled with a mixture of goat's cheese and honey. By 160 BC, Roman statesman
Marcus Porcius Cato (234–149 BC), who wrote
De Agri Cultura, notes the recipe for the most popular pie/cake called
placenta. Also called
libum by the Romans, it was more like a modern-day
cheesecake on a pastry base, often used as an offering to the gods. With the development of the Roman Empire and its efficient road transport, pie cooking spread throughout
Europe. These pies were meant to be eaten with the hands. The hardened coffyn pastry was not necessarily eaten, its function being to contain the filling for baking, and to extend its shelf-life. The thick crust was so sturdy it had to be cracked open to get to the filling. Ceramic pie dishes were not used until the 16th century. Medieval pie crusts were often baked first, to create a "pot" of baked dough with a removable top crust, hence the name
pot pie. The recipe included spices, apples, raisins pears and figs. The 14th-century French chef Taillevent instructed bakers to "crenelate" pie shells and "reinforce them so that they can support the meat"; one of his pies was high enough that it resembled a model of a castle, an illusion enhanced by miniature banners for the nobles at the event. It was in the 16th century that a puff paste began to be used to make flakier pie crusts. In Gervase Markham's 1615 book
The English Huswife, there is a recipe for puff paste where the paste is kneaded, rolled thinly many times while layering with butter. This made a flaky butter pastry to cover meat for pies or for tarts. There is also a pie recipe that calls for "an entire leg of mutton and three pounds of suet..., along with salt, cloves, mace, currants, raisins, prunes, dates, and orange peel", which made a huge pie that could serve a large group. In the 17th century,
Ben Jonson described a skilled pie cook by comparing the cook to a fortification builder who "...Makes citadels of curious fowl and fish" and makes "dry-ditches", "bulwark pies" and "ramparts of immortal crusts".
Pumpkin pie was fashionable in England from the 1650s onward, then fell out of favour during the 18th century.
Pumpkin was sliced, fried with sweet herbs sweetened with sugar and eggs were added. This was put into a pastry case with currants and apples. Pumpkin pie was introduced to America by early colonists where it became a national dish.
Apple pie became popular, because apples were easy to dry and store in barrels over the winter. Pie fillings could be made with very few ingredients to "stretch" their "meager provisions". By the 19th century pies were a staple of the American family meal and women were responsible for figuring out how to make tasty pies that fit within the family budget. Once the British had established Caribbean colonies, sugar became less expensive and more widely available, which meant that sweet pies could be readily made. Molasses was popular in American pies due to the rum and slave trade with the Caribbean Islands, and
maple syrup was an important sweetener in Northern states, after Indigenous people taught settlers how to tap maple trees and boil down the sap. In the Midwest, cheese and cream pies were popular, due to the availability of big dairy farms. In the US south,
African-Americans enjoyed
sweet potato pies, due to the widespread availability of this type of potato. By the 1870s, the new science of
nutrition led to criticism of pies, notably by
Sarah Tyson Rorer, a cooking teacher and food editor who warned the public about how much energy pies take to digest. Rorer stated that all pie crusts "...are to be condemned" and her cookbook only included an apple tart, jelly and meringue-covered crackers, pâté, and a "hygienic pie" which had "apple slices or a pumpkin custard baked in biscuit dough". In 1866, ''
Harper's Magazine'' included an article by C.W. Gesner that stated that although we "...cry for pie when we are infants", "Pie kills us finally", as the "heavy crust" cannot be digested. Another factor that decreased the popularity of pies was
industrialisation and increasing movement of women into the labour market, which changed pie making from a weekly ritual to an "occasional undertaking" on special occasions. In the 1950s, after WWII, the popularity of pies rebounded in the US, especially with commercial food inventions such as instant pudding mixes,
Cool Whip topping, and
Jello gelatin (which could be used as fillings) ready-made crusts, which were sold frozen, and alternative crusts made with crushed potato chips. There was a pie renaissance in the 1980s, when old-fashioned pie recipes were rediscovered and a wide range of cross-cultural pies were explored. ==Regional variations==