The
Ngarrindjeri people had long used pipi, which they called kuti, as an important source of protein in their diet. Cooked on hot coals or in mud ovens, kuti was eaten on the beach. Numerous ancient
shell middens still in evidence around the
Coorong and
Goolwa beaches, as well as areas now underwater, attest to this practice. After
British colonisation of South Australia and the establishment of the
Raukkan (previously Point McLeay) mission in 1859, the Ngarrindjeri were removed from their land, thereby becoming unable to access their traditional fishing and hunting grounds. Famous Ngarrindjeri author and inventor
David Unaipon (who is featured on the
Australian $50 note) asked the 1913
Royal Commission on the Aborigines for a fishing licence, but this was not granted. and 32 licences to harvest unlimited quantities were offered at each. Subsequently, imported Asian clam species have largely replaced
P. deltoides as bait because of their lower cost. The
Cockle Train, the oldest steel-tracked railway in Australia, was built in 1854 from
Port Elliot to
Goolwa to transfer cargo from ocean-going vessels to river boats. The train acquired its name due to its extensive use by colonists to collect pipis from beaches near the
mouth of the Murray River. Originally in length, the line was extended to
Victor Harbor in 1864 and is now a popular tourist attraction
2008: Quotas During the 2008 season, owing to surging demand and decreasing catches, a
quota of was introduced to manage the resource; commercial fishing was restricted to the Younghusband Peninsula, from a point east of the centre of the Murray mouth to
Kingston, with recreational fishers banned from catching in these areas. It was subsequently found that 11 of the licences — primarily multi-generational local family fishing companies — were allocated only 1% of the quota each, which would fail to cover their overheads, while 10 licences supplying European markets were allocated up to 15% of the quota each. Two groups lobbied
Parliament to protect the respective interests: Goolwa Cockle Working Group representing the 10 large quota holders, and the Southern Fisherman's Association representing the small quotas. The
South Australian Legislative Council overturned the quotas on 23 June 2008 on the basis of unfairness.
2009 season The November 2008 to May 2009 season was closed after the fishery dramatically collapsed, with more than 95% of the catch consisting of undersize juveniles. A Parliamentary enquiry is investigating
Department of Primary Industries and Resources (PIRSA) for its failure to manage the fishery. An independent organisation,
The Goolwa Pipi Harvesters Association — inaugurated in October 2009 — was tasked with ensuring the sustainable development of the
P. deltoides retail and export industry. The initial quota for future seasons was set at 600 tonnes annually, less than 2% of the 2008 quota.
2010 season In October 2009 the government reduced the commercial quota to 300 tonnes, and delayed the start of the 2010 season until December. Previously, recreational fishers had been requested to voluntarily limit their catches to 600 per day; however, a new recreational bag limit of 300 per person was now enforceable by law. During the weekend of 9–10 January, fisheries officials patrolled the Victor Harbor and Goolwa Beaches, inspecting over 1,000 recreational catches. Four fishers were fined for exceeding the bag limit and ten for taking undersized individuals; 15,000 undersized
P. deltoides were returned to the water.
2011 season Owing to a recovery of fishery stocks, the State Government increased the commercial quota from 300 to 330 tonnes for the 2011 season, the start of which was voluntarily delayed until 1 December 2010. Recreational fishers were permitted to collect on the Younghusband Peninsula between 28 Mile Beach and Kingston jetty. Commercial fishers without a quota could take
P. deltoides for their own personal use as bait with a catch limit of per day. It was illegal for commercial fishers without quotas to sell or trade
P. deltoides. The size limit was not increased but would instead be reviewed annually, and the Goolwa cockle was officially renamed
pipi by PIRSA.
2012 season For the 2012 season, the state government increased the commercial quota from 330 to 400 tonnes and announced its intention to proclaim a section of the Younghusband Peninsula a marine sanctuary to provide some protection for future stocks. In reply, commercial fishers announced they planned to lobby the government to either provide compensation or move the sanctuary to a location that would have a lower impact on commercial fishing.
2020: Kuti Co. After the popularity of the pipi had surged in the preceding five years, a new partnership began between
Indigenous enterprise Kuti Co. and the highly successful Goolwa Pipi Co., which had established a processing facility at Port Elliott. The partnership deal was struck soon after the Goolwa Pipi Co. had taken over the lease of a beach café at Goolwa, renamed Kuti Shack. The new arrangement saw dozens of Ngarrindjeri workers employed at various stages of production, helping to bring cultural pride and understanding of their heritage. ongoing as of October 2025. Many marine animals were affected by the bloom, including the pipis, and Goolwa Pipi Co. employees were put out of work and income. ==Victoria==