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Rottingdean

Rottingdean is a village in the city of Brighton and Hove, on the south coast of England. It borders the villages Saltdean, Ovingdean and Woodingdean, and has a historic centre.

Name
The name Rottingdean is normally interpreted as the valley of the people associated with Rōta (a male personal name). Other variations to be found in ancient charters include Ruttingedene (1272), Rottyngden (1315) and Rottendeane (1673). The name was contrasted unflatteringly with Goodwood (another place in Sussex) in a national 1970s advertising campaign for wood-preserver. == Geography ==
Geography
Rottingdean is in a dry valley whose sides in the upper reaches are quite steep, and this valley comes right down to the English Channel coast. ==Civil status and former extent of the area==
Civil status and former extent of the area
The parish became part of county borough of Brighton in 1928. In 1996 it regained an independent parish council, the only one in what is now the city of Brighton and Hove. Within the parish lies the deserted hamlet of Balsdean. The adjacent village of Woodingdean was formerly (until 1933) part of Rottingdean parish. Also formerly in the parish were most of the district of what is now Saltdean; Roedean School, an independent school for girls; and the Blind Veterans UK Centre, a rehabilitation centre for blinded ex-Service personnel. ==History==
History
The first settled inhabitants of Rottingdean were the Neolithic people, arriving around 2500 BC. From information in the Domesday Book of 1086 it can be estimated that Rottingdean had a total population of between 50 and 100 at that time. Earlier, his forces had sacked and burnt the port of Rye, the French even taking the church's bronze bells. The raiders landed at Rottingdean, probably intending to pillage the nearby Lewes priory. The Prior of Lewes, with a force of 500 men marched to Rottingdean. The French could see them coming and set an ambush with 300 horsemen. The outnumbered English lost at least 100 men, but inflicted sufficient casualties on the French to deter them from making an attack on Lewes itself. During the action, the Prior was captured, together with his subordinates; Sir John Falvesley (or Fallesley), Sir Thomas Cheyne and the esquire John Brocas. The Prior and the two knights were later ransomed, but John Brocas died, probably of wounds received during the battle. The village suffered grievously. The French plundered and set fire to the houses and burnt the crops. Tradition has it that in their terror the villagers fled to the church where they sought sanctuary. The attackers then set the church alight, killing everybody inside. In the 17th century, the rise of the Quaker movement was reflected in Rottingdean, with a number of villagers becoming Quakers. Their beliefs and codes of behaviour led to confrontations with authority. Nicholas Beard was one of the wealthiest landowners in the parish, who, in line with his Quaker beliefs, refused to pay his tithes. This led to a feud between him and Robert Baker who held the position of Vicar of Rottingdean for 52 years. Nicholas Beard and other Quakers suffered imprisonment on a number of occasions and it is recorded that, in 1659, the vicar took twelve oxen, six cows and a bull from Nicholas Beard to pay a year's tithes. However, Nicholas Beard remained a wealthy man. When he died he left a plot of land in the grounds of Challoners House to be a burial ground for Quakers. Most histories of Rottingdean mention that its inhabitants were involved in smuggling. The smuggling was in both directions; wool would be smuggled out, and tea, spirits, tobacco and lace would be smuggled in. A number of documented seizures of contraband goods were made in Rottingdean in the second half of the 18th century. Contraband was most probably unloaded at Saltdean Gap rather than at Rottingdean as it was a more deserted spot. It would then be transported over the hill, down the present Whiteways Lane into the village and then inland for distribution. It is impossible to verify all the local stories or believe all the claims about secret passages under the village, but it is persistently rumoured that the 18th century vicar Dr Thomas Hooker was involved. However, the other face of Hooker was his devotion to education. He opened schools in the village both for the well-off and for the local children. The village was once a centre for hunting, especially in the second half of the 19th century. The Brookside Hunt was based in the village until 1902, hunting hares and foxes with a pack of hounds. For most of its history Rottingdean was a farming community, but from the late 18th century it attracted leisured visitors wanting a genteel alternative to raffish Brighton, among them people famous in English cultural life. Some, in the late 19th century, notably the painter Sir Edward Burne-Jones and his nephew Rudyard Kipling, made it their home. When farming collapsed in the 1920s, much of the farmland became available for building, and Rottingdean increased significantly in population, but especially in the area known as Saltdean. The Woodingdean area was made a separate parish in 1933 to cope with its expanding population. == Buildings ==
Buildings
The Black Horse Now a public house on the High Street, the Black Horse is believed to be the oldest entire building in Rottingdean, having been built during the reign of Henry VIII, perhaps as early as 1513. It was formerly called the "Black Hole". Its lounge was once a forge. The Elms The Elms is most famous for being lived in by Rudyard Kipling, who rented the property between 1897 and 1902. The Elms was built around 1750, situated on The Green facing the village pond. From 1785 to 1859 it was owned by the Ingram family. The Grange Originally built as a vicarage and extended by the vicar Thomas Hooker in the early 19th century as a school, In the 1920s, Lutyens restored the property for London solicitor Sir George Lewis, with Gertrude Jeckyll influencing the garden design. Developer Charles Neville occupied it for some time. It now houses an Art Gallery and Museum which are managed by Rottingdean Heritage volunteers, as well as the local library and Tourist Information Hub which are the responsibility of Brighton and Hove Council. The writer Enid Bagnold bought the property with her husband Sir Roderick Jones in 1923 and extended into the adjoining Gothic House. These three properties were the inspiration for Angela Thirkell's autobiographical Three Houses (1931). She was the granddaughter of Edward Burne Jones. The three houses are now separate dwellings once again. An almost exact replica of the church was constructed at the Forest Lawn Memorial Park, Glendale, California in 1941. Whipping Post House Originally a sixteenth-century cottage, its grounds were the site of the village stocks and whipping post. It was once the home of Captain Dunk, village butcher by day and smuggler by night. Part of the building continued to serve as a butcher's shop in later years under William Hilder. ==Schools past and present==
Schools past and present
Rottingdean School The vicar Dr Thomas Hooker founded a private school in the vicarage in the early 19th Century. He expanded his classes to an annexe in the High Street. From 1863 a Mr Hewitt ran Field House School on the High Street site; there Ralph Vaughan Williams and the later Earl Jellicoe were educated. The school took the name Rottingdean School in 1887 and seven years later moved to new buildings in the north of the village by the Falmer Road on land that had belonged to Steyning Beard. Village School Dr Thomas Hooker also started a school for the village children some time before 1818. In the 1840s a Lewes banker, George Molineux, let a house near the coast at Rottingdean for use as a National School. The school was funded from voluntary subscriptions and the payment of a fee of 1d. per week for each pupil. In 1859, Lord Abergavenny and James Ingram donated a piece of land for the construction of a purpose-built schoolroom at the bottom of Neville Road, opening in 1860. In 1874 a separate infants school was built on the opposite side of the road. The school was privately owned, usually by the head master, until 1969, after which it was owned and operated by an independent charitable trust. St Aubyns closed in 2013. Roedean School Roedean School is an independent day and boarding school for girls. In 1879 it moved to its present site on the cliff-top west of Rottingdean. At the time, the land was part of Rottingdean parish and was purchased from the Marquess of Abergavenny. ==Notable residents==
Notable residents
Lucy Baldwin, Countess Baldwin of Bewdley (née Ridsdale; 1869–1945), writer and activist for maternal health, grew up in Rottingdean. • Edward Burne-Jones, English pianist • Rudyard Kipling, artist and frontman of My Life StoryEnid Bagnold, tennis player • Michael Fabricant, former Member of Parliament for LichfieldJohn Volanthen, cave diver Most of these well-known people were not local, and had settled in or retired to Rottingdean. The village also had home-grown talent of significance, notably the Copper Family who maintained a long tradition of English folk song, performing for the collector Kate Lee as early as 1892. Its best-known member was Bob Copper (1915–2004), also known as a writer. The Rottingdean Preservation Society recognised their importance in the village and erected a plaque in 2010 at 1 Challoner's Cottages, partly funded from its own resources but complemented by a donation from the English Folk Dance and Song Society. Katherine Mansfield spent a few months in Rottingdean in 1910, staying above a grocery shop in the High Street. World War I veteran Henry Allingham was a resident of St Dunstan's. Allingham was the oldest man in the world and the last founder member of the RAF when he died aged 113 in July 2009. == Sport ==
Sport
Rottingdean Cricket Club was founded in 1758. The original cricket pitch was at Balsdean, moving to Beacon Hill in the early 19th century but is now situated on the Falmer Road. The 1st team play in the Sussex County League, Division 3 East. ==Popular culture==
Popular culture
The board game Cluedo, launched in 1949, had its origins in Rottingdean. Travelling entertainers Anthony and Elva Pratt hosted murder mystery games at the Tudor Close Hotel in Rottingdean, played out by guests and local actors. Called Murder at Tudor Close, they took the idea to Waddingtons, who marketed it as Cluedo. Victorian Rottingdean is the setting for the mystery novel Death at Rottingdean. Rottingdean plays an important role in the final act of C. J. Sansom's alternate history novel Dominion. A shop in Rottingdean was the inspiration for the Local Shop in the comedy series The League of Gentlemen. ==See also==
General references
• Carder, Tim (1991) The encyclopaedia of Brighton. Lewes: East Sussex County Council (1991). • Coates, Richard (2010) A history of Rottingdean and Ovingdean through their place-names. Nottingham: English Place-Name Society. • Copper, Bob (1976) Early to rise. London: Heinemann (1976). • Heater, Derek (1993) The remarkable history of Rottingdean. Brighton: Dyke Publications. • Rottingdean Preservation Society annual reports and unpublished archives. • Green, Howard (1973) Guide to the Battlefields of Britain & Ireland London: Constable and Company, Ltd ==External links==
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