John Redfern (11 November 1820 – 22 November 1895) started out as a tailor in
Cowes in 1855, following in the sartorial footsteps of his father, also John Redfern, who first opened a Cowes specialty clothing shop in 1811. With the support of sons Ernest Redfern and Charles Poynter Redfern (1853–1929), John Redfern opened tailoring houses in London and Paris in 1881, followed by two shops in New York in 1884–85, one for tailoring, the other for furs. The Redferns are credited with making tailored clothing chic for women. Previously resigned to utilitarian wear, finely tailored dresses and suits, as introduced by Redfern, quickly became a craze among sporting aristocrats on holiday at Cowes, spreading soon to Paris. In the 1870s the Redfern yachting suit or dress was swiftly becoming the most recognizably English mode of fashionable apparel. In this way, the Redfern label was essentially the first high-end sportswear brand. By the early 1890s, due largely to the patronage of British and European royalty, Redfern's Paris house had developed into a full scale couture business. The house in New York also did not function as a couture establishment but as an importer of other Parisian fashion brands which were sold alongside its own products. Like the Paris salon, the New York branch was originally advertised as a ladies' tailoring concern. The first English-based couturier to open full-scale American branches in the U.S. and to enjoy a lengthy success there was
Lucile in the 1910s and '20s. It was in 1871 that the house of Redfern first expanded its tailoring business to include the design and sale of silk dresses and
mourning clothes. For example, in 1879 the house created a simple
jersey traveling dress for
Lillie Langtry, the noted beauty and actress popularly known as the "Jersey Lily," a name deriving from her birthplace in
Jersey. The dress was widely copied and remained a favorite in the Redfern line for many years. In 1888, Redfern was formally named Dressmaker By Royal Appointment to
Her Majesty the Queen and
H.R.H. The Princess of Wales. Redfern Ltd. was credited with helping popularize the high-waisted, so-called Grecian style of 1908. In the early 1910s, the house's designs were often illustrated in
Gazette du Bon Ton along with six other leading Paris couturiers –
Cheruit,
Doeuillet,
Doucet,
Paquin,
Poiret, and
Worth. In 1916 Redfern created the first officially designated women's uniform for the
Red Cross. The Paris headquarters of Redfern closed in 1932, briefly reopened in 1936, and closed again in 1940. ==Gallery==