Disillusioned with commercial art, he dropped out for several years but re-emerged in the 1970s as one of the leading figures visualizing the fetish and
S&M subculture in New York and later San Francisco. He was much influenced, he said, by his chance discovery of a probably bootleg magazine of the drawings of
Tom of Finland, which "irrevocably changed his life." The depiction of men "having sex with men, passionately and enthusiastically" "spoke to him in a way no lover or anonymous stranger ever had." His distinctively styled black-and-white pen-and-ink drawings quickly became synonymous with an emerging S&M graphic idiom that, in addition to Tom of Finland, included
Dom Orejudos (aka
Etienne and
Stephen),
Steve Masters ('Mike' Miksche, born David Leo Miksche, 1925–1964), and Luger (
Jim French, born 1932). The raw sexual energy of REX's early drawings resonated with a
leather scene that was just emerging in
Greenwich Village,
Chelsea and the
meatpacking district (see
Mineshaft). The elusiveness of all the artists was deliberate because explicit sexual art, particularly homosexual in subject, was illegal, framed in vague language and enforced via contradictory judgments before the
Stonewall riots. He said "I signed myself REX because it was non-specific and untraceable in those days by the cops". Although explicit nudes aimed at gay men would become more permissible, the conservative and
homophobic social culture of the era still meant that involvement with
gay pornography could have serious consequences. As a freelance artist, initially working for pornographic series of Rough Trade pulp books (1972) illustrated with 12 images for each story, he produced poster commissions for a number of leather shops and gay bars around the US. His most famous works from this period were created for the notorious and legendary New York sex club the
Mineshaft. The three posters and T-shirts he created for the club were sold in the tens of thousands during the 13 years of the club's existence and featured in the film
Cruising (night interiors were filmed elsewhere, but recreated the club's interiors and include REX posters). His illustrations reflected the sexual activities and extreme end of newly empowered pre-
AIDS gay community and celebrated the
gay bathhouse culture blatantly and without apology. Other commissions included the 1976 poster for the pioneering sex boutique the
Pleasure Chest (a
sex shop) which led to his work appearing on early covers for the fledgling S&M-orientated
Drummer magazine in 1977 and to advertisements for a brand of
poppers, BOLT, in 1980. Commuting between New York and San Francisco, REX also produced posters, catalogues and calendars for The Trading Post, considered the first gay department store (1978 to 1981). ==Later career==