The mountain underwent reconnaissance by
Fanny Bullock Workman and her husband in 1911-12. The initial endeavor to conquer the peak, which was then denoted as "Peak 36," took place in 1935, led by a British expedition headed by James Waller and
John Hunt. Their approach to the mountain commenced from the Likah Glacier, with the objective of ascending the South East ridge. They successfully established a final camp on June 19th, yet their altitude estimation proved to be inaccurate. An attempt to reach the summit the following day, amidst worsening weather conditions, was thwarted as they were required to ascend an additional 3500 feet. Hunt and Brotherhood managed to reach an elevation of 24,500 feet but were compelled to turn around. In 1957, under the leadership of
Eric Shipton, a British university expedition approached the mountain via the
Bilafond La route, entering from Pakistan and operating under a Pakistani climbing permit. However, they chose not to make a summit attempt. Unintentionally, this expedition marked the initial maneuver in the consequential
oropolitics dispute over the
Siachen conflict, ultimately culminating in the Siachen conflict of 1984. The first ascent of Saltoro Kangri was in July 1962, by a joint Japanese-Pakistani expedition led by T. Shidei. This piggyback expedition put A. Saito, Y. Takamura and Pakistani climber R.A. Bashir on the top on July 24, following the S.E. ridge route. The peak was again climbed by an Indian Army expedition led by
Colonel Narendra Kumar in 1981. The Himalayan Index lists only one more ascent of the mountain, in 1981, and no other attempts. == References ==