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Simone Moro

Simone Moro is an Italian mountaineer and alpinist who is known for making first winter ascents of four of the fourteen eight-thousanders, which were: Shishapangma in 2005, Makalu in 2009, Gasherbrum II in 2011, and Nanga Parbat in 2016. No other climber has made more first winter ascents of an eight-thousander in history. He has summited Everest four times, in 2000, 2002, 2006, and 2010.

Early life
Born in Bergamo, in northern Italy, to middle-class parents, Moro grew up in the borough of Valtesse and was actively encouraged by his father in his passion for the mountains. His father was a cyclist and also fostered a lively and international environment around him. He started climbing on the Presolana and other massifs of the Bergamasque Alps at the age of 13. In 2003, at 35, he completed his university studies and graduated cum laude. == Climbing career ==
Climbing career
Moro began his climbing activity on the Grigne near his home city. His father was his first mentor, and later Alberto Cosonni and Bruno Tassi. At that time he was primarily involved in rock climbing, an activity he has never given up. In 1992 he participated in his first Himalayan expedition, to Mount Everest. One year later Moro climbed Aconcagua in winter. He made expeditions to other mountains in the 1990s, including Cerro Mirador in winter and Makalu in 1993; Shishapangma and Lhotse in 1994, Kangchenjunga in 1995. In 1996 Moro climbed the west wall of Fitz Roy ( in Patagonia) in 25 hours from the base to the summit and back to the base. In the same year, he climbed Shishapangma South () without oxygen in 27 hours using skis in the descent from . In 1997 he summited Lhotse. In Winter of 1997 he attempted the South face of Annapurna. During this attempt, his climbing companions Anatoli Boukreev and Dimitri Sobolev died in an avalanche. He tried Everest again in 1998; summited four peaks Pik Lenin (), Peak Korzhenevskaya (), Ismoil Somoni Peak (, formerly known as Pik Kommunizma), Pik Khan Tengri () with young Kazakhstan guide Denis Urubko; then summited Everest with him in 2000 In February 2016, Moro completed the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat with Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara. In February 2018, he completed the first winter ascent of Peak Pobeda, Sakha along with fellow Italian mountaineer Tamara Lunger. ==Rescue missions==
Rescue missions
In May 2001 he tried to traverse Everest–Lhotse: during an attempt on the wall of Lhotse at 8000 metres he abandoned the climb to search, rescue, and save English alpinist Tom Moores. Moro was a recipient of the Fair Play Pierre de Coubertin trophy from UNESCO, he bought a helicopter with his own money to carry out search and rescue operations in the Nepalese Himalayas for Nepalese people. He has piloted the helicopter several times to rescue alpinists, sherpas, trekkers, and people in remote areas. ==Charitable work==
Charitable work
In 2003, Moro projected and financed a school for 396 Sherpa children in the Nepalese village of Syadul. The objective of the project, carried with an Italian foundation, was to prevent early school-leaving in the area. The school was opened in 2005. It is located in a village a thousand meters above sea level and three hours from the nearest road. Near the Nanga Parbat base camp, he financed, built, and donated to the Pakistani district of Gilgit Baltistan a small masonry building for local shepherds and a small hospital in the village of Ser. == Eight-thousanders climbed ==
Books
• Moro, Simone(2014) The Call of The Ice • Moro, Simone(2003) ''Cometa sull'Annapurna [Italian]'' • Ho visto l'abisso - Rizzoli, 2020 • I sogni non sono in discesa - Rizzoli, 2019 • Siberia -71°. Là dove gli uomini amano il freddo - Rizzoli, 2018 • Devo perché posso. La mia via per la felicità oltre le montagne (with Marianna Zanatta) - Rizzoli, 2017 • In cordata. Storia di un'amicizia tra due generazioni da zero a ottomila metri (with Mario Curnis) - Rizzoli, 2015 • Nanga. Fra rispetto e pazienza, come ho corteggiato la montagna che chiamavano assassina - Rizzoli, 2019 • 8000 metri di vita. Ediz. italiana e inglese - Corbaccio, 2023 • Everest. In vetta a un sogno. Nuova ediz. - Mondadori Electa, 2023 • A ogni passo. Le storie di montagna e di vita che racconto a mio figlio - Rizzoli, 2021 • Il team invisibile. Come diventare una squadra vincente e affrontare le sfide del lavoro e del mondo che cambiano (with Marianna Zanatta) - Rizzoli, 2021 • In ginocchio sulle ali. La passione per il volo, la missione di soccorso in quota: non voglio smettere di sognare - Rizzoli, 2020 == References ==
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