St. Niklaus is home to a famous mountain guide dynasty. It was founded in the mid-19th century by: •
Josef Marie Lochmatter (1833–1882) •
Peter Knubel (1832–1919; his best friend) •
Alois Pollinger (1844–1910; his brother-in-law) •
Josef Imboden (1840–1925; Knubel's cousin) Lochmatter and Knubel were the first well-informed guides of the
Matterhorn and were consequently pioneers in the development of modern tourism in the
valley of St. Niklaus and particularly in
Zermatt. They also had a monopoly on
Matterhorn ascents. Moreover, as the first Swiss guide to do so, Knubel climbed a mountain outside the Alps in 1874, the highest European summit,
Elbrus in the
Caucasus. Pollinger invented the double-rope system of descent, which he used successfully at the Ridge of Ferpècle. Imboden was the first Swiss to ascend an (unnamed) 6,000 meter-high mountain in the Himalayas in 1883, where the highest mountains in the world are located. The fathers trained the sons very early in their expeditions. The initiators of the new school came out of their ranks for the second time, a fact that gave a new input to alpinism and the level of which was not reached again until the 1930s. They were not satisfied to simply climb a high mountain; they always chose more and more difficult routes. The three rope teams of St. Niklaus have made the totality of the possible expeditions in this area of the Alps: •
Josef Lochmatter (1872–1914) with Valentine J.E. Ryan •
Josef Pollinger (1873–1943) with Robert W. Lloyd •
Josef Knubel (1881–1961) with
Geoffrey W. Young They were the also first ski-guides and were also pioneers overseas. The mountain guides of St. Niklaus have effected about 300 first ascents a little bit everywhere in the world. Routes and mountains in Switzerland, France, Norway and Canada bear their names, for example • the Ridge of the Four Asses in Switzerland (
Dent Blanche, first ascent by Alois Pollinger in 1882) • the Chimney Lochmatter in France (
Aiguille du Grépon, first ascent by Josef Lochmatter in 1913), • the Chimney Knubel in France (
Aiguille du Grépon, first ascent by Josef Knubel in 1911), • the Imbodentind in Norway (first ascent by Josef Imboden in 1899), •
Mount Pollinger and Mount Sarbach in Canada. In 1995 a monument for all guides of St. Niklaus was built. Moreover, in 2000 a museum of the mountain guides was opened in St. Niklaus. ==Geography==