The tam o' shanter is a flat bonnet, originally made of wool hand-knitted in one piece, stretched on a wooden disc to give the distinctive flat shape, and subsequently
felted. The earliest forms of these caps, known as a
blue bonnet from their typical colour, were made by bonnet-makers in
Scotland. By the year 1599 five bonnet-makers'
guilds had formed in cities around the country: Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Perth, Stirling and Glasgow. At the end of the 16th century, it was said that the Scottish caps were the normal fashion of men and servants, and they remained so throughout the 17th century. The term came to denote a hat, usually associated with Scottish military regiments, derived from the old bonnet, along with the
Glengarry and the
Balmoral bonnets. The Balmoral was sometimes simply described as synonymous with the tam o' shanter. Before the introduction of inexpensive synthetic dyes in the mid-19th century, the Scottish knitted bonnet was made only in colours easily available from natural dyes, particularly
woad or
indigo (hence "blue bonnet"). Since that time the tam o' shanter has been produced in a wider range of fabrics, such as serge, as single colours, as well as
tartan. Women have also adopted a form of this hat, known as a "tammy" or "tam". ==Military use==