18th century early dishes "à la tartare" Eighteenth-century cookbooks in French, English, and Polish use
à la tartare for dishes of meat or fish that were breaded (or crumbed) and grilled or roasted, typically served with a sharp, cold sauce. The accompanying "tartar" sauce in these early sources was an oil and acid emulsion or dressing sharpened with mustard and chopped aromatics, such as shallot or onion, anchovy, pickles and parsley, rather than a true mayonnaise. An English example is Nott's "Pigeons a la Tartare with cold Sauce" (1723), mixed from chopped onion or shallot, anchovy and pickles with oil, water, lemon juice and mustard. The earliest English attestations of the term "sauce tartare" date from the 1820s.
"Tartar sauce" without yolks or mayonnaise Nineteenth-century books record tartar sauce recipes assembled without egg yolk or mayonnaise.
Manuel de gastronomie (1825) gives a version thickened with breadcrumbs.
Antoine Beauvilliers's ''L'art du cuisinier
(1814 edition) lists a tartar sauce without crumbs but likewise not mayonnaise based. Louis-Eustache Audot reproduced the recipe in La cuisiniere de la campagne et de la ville
(1853) and in a Spanish translation (1854), suggesting broad circulation across Europe. An anonymous Polish manual, Nowa kuchnia warszawska
(1838), likewise gives a cold tartar sauce of chopped shallots or onion and tarragon seasoned with mustard, salt, pepper, vinegar and oil, with no yolks. The chef C. P. Robert even contrasted a hot tartar sauce without yolk to a cold yolk-based sauce he labeled rémoulade''.
Emergence of mayonnaise-based tartar sauce By the early to mid-19th century, authors also described tartar sauce built from hard-boiled or raw yolks and oil. An Austrian manual (1824) printed "Senf-Tunke oder Remulade (Sauce Tartare)" with herbs and yolk.
Alexis Soyer's
The Gastronomic Regeneration (1849) gives
Sauce a la Tartare using both cooked and raw yolks with cornichons, capers, parsley and shallot, plus French mustard and cayenne. Polish sources adopted yolk-based versions as well. For example, Jozef Schmidt's
Kuchnia polska (1860) sieved hard-boiled yolks with mustard and oil, adjusted with vinegar and optionally colored green with spinach or garden cress juice. In late-19th-century French practice, tartar sauce was firmly classed among the mayonnaise family.
Jules Gouffe's
Le livre de cuisine (1867 and later editions of 1877) listed
sauce tartare alongside related cold sauces, and encyclopedic manuals of the era reinforced the mayonnaise base with chopped cornichons or capers and herbs. Escoffier also listed the sauce as a standard accompaniment for fried fish, for example
Cabillaud frit. Over the 20th century, the raw-beef dish now generally called
steak tartare evolved independently, while
sauce tartare persisted as a widely used cold mayonnaise sauce. ==See also==