The ladies' costumes were sumptuous: "Juno" wore a "sky-colored mantle" embroidered with gold and peacock feathers, with a crown also of gold; "Diana" was dressed a "green mantle" embroidered with silver half moons, "with a croissant of pearls on her head." The costumes were created by ransacking the wardrobe of the dead
Queen Elizabeth.
Arbella Stuart reported that Anne of Denmark sent
Audrey Walsingham and
Lady Suffolk to choose fabrics. According to
Dudley Carleton the old gowns supplied embroidered satins, cloth of silver, and
cloth of gold for the goddesses.
Elizabeth I had allowed the use of some of the clothes of
Mary I of England in court drama, but there are very few other records of the re-use and recycling of clothes and masque costume at court in the 17th-century. Anne of Denmark also spent at least £1000 on new fabrics for the masque.
William Cookesbury supplied feathers for the masque costumes to Audrey Walsingham and
Elizabeth Carey. Accounts for the masque show that Mary Mountjoy (
Shakespeare's landlady) provided a helmet for the queen;
James Duncan, tailor, made the queen's costume; Mrs Rogers made "tires" or headdresses;
Christopher Shawe was the embroiderer; Thomas Kendall provided costumes for the professionals; Richard French, haberdasher, provided cloth for the goddess's mantles; Thomas Wilson made the queen's shoes and buskins; Edward Ferres, draper; George Hearne was the painter;
William Portington was carpenter and made the temple and rock; Robert Payne was in charge of some of the professional actors; Audrey Walsingham and Elizabeth Carey signed wardrobe acquisitions; John Kirkton was orderer and director of the works (financial director). The masque cost between two and three thousand pounds to stage.
Lady Penelope Rich reportedly wore £20,000 worth of jewels while appearing the masque – though she was outdone by the Queen, who sported fully £100,000 in gems. (This kind of extreme display became characteristic of the courtly masques during the Stuart era, and was a focus of controversy and deep disapproval by wide segments of the public.) Anne carried a spear and wore a helmet and a tunic, embroidered with cannon and weapons of war, which ended just below the knee, quite an innovation for the time. As
Dudley Carleton put it, "her clothes were not so much below the knee but that we might see a woman had both feet and legs which I never knew before." The courtier
Roger Wilbraham wrote a summary of his impressions of the entertainments at court in January 1604 and their costs, "King James was at his court at Hampton, where the French, Spanish, and Polonian ambassadors were severallie solemplie feasted, many plaies & daunces with swordes, one mask by English & Scottish lords, another by the Queen's Maiestie & eleven more ladies of her chamber presenting giftes as goddesses. These maskes, especially the laste, costes £2000 or £3000, the aparells, rare musick, fine songes, and in jewels most riche £20,000, the least to my judgment, & Jewels of Anne of Denmark|[jewels for] her Majestie £100,000, after Christmas was
running at the ring by the King & 8 or 9 lords for the honour of those goddesses & then they all feasted together privatelie." ==Diplomacy==