The first recorded ascent was on 12 June 1923 by the
Marquis de Segonzac, Vincent Berger and Hubert Dolbeau, but the mountain may well have been climbed before that date. Toubkal's height was measured the following year, and determined as being Nowadays measured at 4,167 metres, the summit is crowned with a large pyramidal metal trigonometric marker, and offers views taking in most of the Atlas and
Little Atlas Mountains. It is possible to climb mountain Toubkal in two days - first day up to the refuge (around seven hours), second day to the summit (around four hours ascent, three hours descent) and back to Imlil (up to five hours). In summer the mountains can be very dry, but are sometimes subject to storms. Although the temperature should remain above zero during the day, freezing conditions are possible over 3,500m. In winter the mountains are covered in snow and ice, and can be prone to avalanches. Skiing is possible as the snow can lie to considerable depth and cover many rocky slopes. Information about the state of the route can be obtained at Marrakesh tourist offices or at Imlil. 1) Ikhibi Sud (normal route). From the Toubkal refuge, a path crosses the stream, climbs a steep
scree slope to the east and enters a
hanging valley, then climbs another steep slope to reach a
col (Tizi'n'Toubkal at 3,940m). At the col the route turns left (northwards) up easy slopes to the narrow summit crest of Jebel Toubkal. The ascent during the summer (from May) is non-technical yet moderately difficult, complicated only by steep and slippery scree slopes and
altitude sickness. Sturdy boots and proper (windproof) clothing are required, and
trekking poles are helpful on the scree. An
ice-axe may be needed on the remaining snowfields in the early summer. The ascent during the end of the winter and spring (February/March) is more difficult;
crampons are necessary to ascend through the snow and - in some cases - ice. Ascent: ; 2.5 –3 hours. 2) Ikhibi Nord Not as frequently ascended as Ikhibi Sud, but technically easier. The route starts some distance down the valley from the Toubkal refuge, and turns right (eastwards) to follow a track up through a hanging valley to a col on the north side of Toubkal. Ascent:; 3–4 hours. The col also gives access to adjacent peaks of Imouzzer and Tibherine 3) West-North-West Ridge (ONO Arete). (First ascent by J de Lepinay and party, 1936). Infrequently climbed, but a long and pleasant traverse containing many gaps and towers. Some difficulties can be avoided by means of an abseil. Grade III/IV; 7 hours. == Other ==