(left of it);
Hunza Peak and
Bublimotin (far left) Ultar Sar also gained fame in the 1990s as supposedly the world's highest unclimbed independent peak. This was incorrect, as
Gangkhar Puensum in Bhutan is higher, and remains unclimbed (and off-limits) as of 2007 (two other higher peaks are also reputedly unclimbed and of independent stature). However, that perception did add to the appeal of the peak, and a number of expeditions attempted to climb it. During the 1980s and 1990s fifteen expeditions made attempts and no summits, but with a number of fatalities. The first two summits were made in 1996 by two separate Japanese expeditions, the first on 11 July from the Tokai section of the
Japanese Alpine Club led by Akito Yamazaki, and the second led by Ken Takahashi. The first summit team comprised Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka (who died one year later on the nearby
Ladyfinger Peak). They climbed the peak from the southwest in
alpine style, doing much of the climbing at night to avoid danger from falling rock and ice. After their summit, they faced strong storms and
bivouacked several days without food before returning to basecamp. Yamazaki died of high altitude sickness after the descent to basecamp. The second summit was made on 31 July via the south ridge by Takahashi, Masayuki Ando, Ryushi Hoshino, Wataru Saito, and Nobuo Tsutsumi. --> On 1 July 2018,
Pakistan Army pilots in a daring mission rescued three foreign mountaineers stuck in snow avalanche at above the height of on Ultar Sar Peak near
Hunza. and Timothy Miller from
UK successfully rescued alive while their companion Christian Huber from
Austria had succumbed to an avalanche. His dead body was recovered. ==Nearby summits and glaciers==