The wedding was a royal event held following the end of the Second World War. The dress, designed by the Court Designer
Norman Hartnell, had a star-patterned fan-shaped bridal train that was in length. The train, symbolic of rebirth and growth after the war, was stated to be inspired by
Botticelli's painting of
Primavera, particularly the elaborate embroidery motifs of scattered flowers on the rich satin dress and the tulle veil worn by the royal bride. The designs for the dress were approved three months before the wedding. Hartnell's search for suitable designs in London art galleries had led to him to the Botticelli figure. This was the inspiration for the use of ivory silk with flower designs of
jasmine,
smilax,
lilac and
white rose-like blossoms added to the train, embellished by white crystals and pearls. These motifs were transferred to drawings to enable embroidery experts to work on them. The dress featured a "heart-shaped neckline and long tight sleeves". The silk cloth was chosen at the specific directive of her mother,
the Queen, who desired an "unusually rich, lustrous stiff satin which was made at
Lullingstone Castle". The silkworms to manufacture the silk were bought from
Nationalist China, and not from
Japan and
Italy , the UK's enemies during the war.
Satin was chosen for the train, and a more flexible material of the same tone as the train was chosen for the dress. However, in spite of the careful choice of the silk, the curator of the London Museum observed 30 years later when the dress was on display at the museum that "the choice of silk was not a good one" as the fabric had deteriorated considerably due to being
weighted with tin salts, effectively rotting the fabric. It was also noted that the "weight of the embroidery dragged the skirt down, increasing the strain on the weave." Round the hem of the dress, "a border of
orange blossom was appliqued with transparent tulle outlined in seed pearls and crystal". The final design of the dress was kept secret, although much speculation surrounded it. It was said the princess feared that if details were published fashion house copies would make it impossible for her to make last-minute design alterations. The dress was taken to the palace a day before the wedding in a box. On the wedding day, the dress glittered, bejewelled with pearls "skilfully combined with flowing lines of wheat ears, the symbol of fertility, and worked in pearl and diamante." ==Similarities==