Origins by
James Lonsdale, 1815, wearing
tasselled Hessian boots The
Duke of Wellington instructed his shoemaker, Hoby of St. James's Street, London, to modify the formal 18th-century
Hessian boot, shown in the 1815 portrait by James Lonsdale, recognizable by their
tassel. The resulting new boot was fabricated in soft calfskin leather, had the trim removed and was cut to fit more closely around the leg. The heels were low cut, stacked around an inch (2.5 centimetres), and the boot stopped at mid-calf. It was suitably hard-wearing for riding, yet smart enough for informal evening wear. The boot was dubbed the
Wellington and the name has stuck in English ever since. Wellington boots, Wellington's utilitarian new boots quickly caught on with patriotic British gentlemen eager to emulate their war hero. Considered fashionable and foppish in the best circles and worn by
dandies, such as
Beau Brummell, they remained the main fashion for men through the 1840s. In the 1850s they were more commonly made in the calf-high version, and in the 1860s they were both superseded by the ankle boot, except for riding. Wellington is one of the two British Prime Ministers to have given his name to an item of clothing, the other being
Sir Anthony Eden (see
Anthony Eden hat) whilst
Sir Winston Churchill gave his name to a
cigar, and William Gladstone (four times prime minister between 1868 and 1894) gave his to the
Gladstone Bag, the classic doctor's
portmanteau.
World War I Production of the Wellington boot was dramatically boosted with the advent of
World War I and a requirement for footwear suitable for the conditions in Europe's flooded and muddy
trenches. The North British Rubber Company (now
Hunter Boot Ltd) was asked by the
War Office to construct a boot suitable for such conditions. The mills ran day and night to produce immense quantities of these trench boots. In total, 1,185,036 pairs were made to meet the
British Army's demands.
World War II In
World War II, Hunter Boot was again requested to supply vast quantities of Wellington and thigh boots. 80% of production was of war materials, from (rubber) ground sheets to life belts and gas masks. In the
Netherlands, the British forces were working in flooded conditions which demanded Wellingtons and thigh boots in vast supplies. By the end of the war in 1945, the Wellington had become popular among men, women and children for wet weather wear. The boot had developed to become far roomier with a thick sole and rounded toe. Also, with the rationing of that time, labourers began to use them for daily work.
Post-war Wellington boots The lower cost and ease of rubber "Wellington" boot manufacture, and being entirely waterproof, lent itself immediately to being the preferred protective material to leather in all forms of industry. Increased attention to occupational health and safety requirements led to the
steel toe or steel-capped Wellington: a protective (commonly internal) toe-capping to protect the foot from crush and puncture injuries. Although traditionally made of steel, the reinforcement may be a composite or a plastic material such as
thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU). Such steel-toe Wellingtons are nearly indispensable in an enormous range of industry and are often mandatory wear to meet local occupational health and safety legislation or insurance requirements. In July 1956, the
Monopolies and Restrictive Practices Commission published its
Report on the Supply of Certain Rubber Footwear, which covered rubber boots of all kinds including Wellingtons and overboots. This 107-page official publication addressed contemporary concerns about unfair pricing of rubber footwear manufactured in the UK or imported from overseas. The appendices include lists of rubber footwear manufacturers and price-lists of each company's range of Wellington boots available in the mid-1950s. Green Wellington boots, introduced by
Hunter Boot Ltd in 1955, gradually became a shorthand for "country life" in the UK. The boots are synonymous with the
Glastonbury festival, due to both their practical use and their place in fashion trends. == Construction ==