1100–1200 in European fashion

Overview As in the previous centuries, two styles of dress existed side-by-side for men: a short (knee-length) costume deriving from a melding of the everyday dress of the later Roman Empire and the short tunics worn by the invading barbarians, and a long (ankle-length) costume descended from the clothing of the Roman upper classes and influenced by Byzantine dress. Fabrics and furs Wool remained the primary fabric for clothing of all classes, while linen undergarments, which were more comfortable against the skin and could be washed and then bleached in the sun, were increasingly worn. Silk, although extremely expensive, was readily available to wealthy people of consequence. Silks from Byzantium were traded in Pavia by way of Venice, and silks from Andalusia reached France via Spain. In the last decade of the previous century, the Norman conquest of Sicily and the First Crusade had opened additional routes for Eastern fabrics and style influences into Europe. Fur was worn as an inside lining for warmth. Vair, the fur of the squirrel, was particularly popular and can be seen in many illuminated manuscript illustrations, where it is shown as a white and blue-grey softly striped or checkered pattern lining the mantles of the wealthy. The bliaut A new French fashion for both men and women was the bliaut or bliaud, a long outer tunic with full skirts from the hip and sleeves that fitted tightly to the elbow and then flared into a trumpet shape. Early bliauts were moderately fitted and bloused slightly over the belt at the waist. Later the bliaut was fitted tightly to the body from shoulder to hip, and the belt, or girdle was wrapped twice around the waist and knotted in front of the abdomen. ==Men's clothing==

'' shows the twins in knee-length tunics over chausses and shoes with pointed toes. England, c. 1170 Shirt, braies, and chausses Underclothes consisted of an inner tunic (French chainse) or shirt with long, tight sleeves, and drawers or braies, usually of linen. Tailored cloth leggings called chausses or hose, made as separate garments for each leg, were often worn with the tunic; striped hose were popular. The better fit and girdle attachment of these new hose eliminated the need for the leg bands often worn with earlier hose. In England, however, leg bands continued to be worn by some people, both rich and poor, right up to the reign of Richard I. After 1200, they were largely abandoned. Outer tunics and doublets Over the undertunic and hose, men wore an outer tunic that reached to the knees or ankles, and that was fastened at the waist with a belt. Fitted bliauts, of wool or, increasingly, silk, had sleeves that were cut wide at the wrist and gored skirts. Men wore bliauts open to the waist front and back or at the side seams. By the next century, it would become widely adopted as civilian dress. Rectangular and circular cloaks were worn over the tunic. These fastened on the right shoulder or at the center front. Headgear Men of the upper classes often went hatless. The chaperon in the form of hood and attached shoulder-length cape was worn during this period, especially by the rural lower classes, and the fitted linen coif tied under the chin appeared very late in the century. Small round or slightly conical caps with rolled brims were worn, and straw hats were worn for outdoor work in summer. Style gallery Image:Richard coeurdelion g.jpg|1 – Richard I of England Image:Hunterian Psalter c. 1170 feasting.jpg|2 – Feasting Image:Geoffrey of Anjou Monument.jpg|3 – Geoffrey of Anjou • Richard the Lionheart is portrayed in a long tunic with tight sleeves and a mantle, late 12th century. • Man feasting wears a cap with a rolled brim and a tunic with wide turned-back cuffs, England, c. 1170. • Monument of Geoffrey of Anjou (d. 1151) depicts him in a calf-length overtunic and long undertunic, with a blue mantle lined in vair. He wears a cap with his coat of arms. ==Women's clothing==

, c. 1180 Chemise and tunic Women's clothing consisted of an undertunic called a chemise, chainse or smock, usually of linen, over which was worn one or more ankle-to-floor length tunics (also called gowns or kirtles). The wimple was introduced in England late in the century. It consisted of a linen cloth that covered the throat (and often the chin as well), and that was fastened about the head, under the veil. Style gallery Image:Angers Cathedral sculpture at west door TTaylor bliaut.jpg|1 – Bliaut Image:Esculturas de Chartres 3 detail bliaut.jpg|2 – Bliaut gironé Image:Esculturas de Chartres 3 detail cincture.jpg|3 – Girdle Image:Hunterian Psalter c. 1170 Eve spinning.jpg|4 – Eve spinning Image:Hunterian Psalter c. 1170 Women.jpg|5 – Two women Image:AlfonsoVIII.jpg|6 – Iberian royalty • Woman wears a bliaut cut in one piece from neck to hem and laced at the sides, over a chemise with tight sleeves. Overall she wears a mantle tied with a double cord. Cathédrale Saint-Maurice d'Angers, between 1130 and 1160. • Bliaut gironé has a finely pleated skirt attached to a decorative waistband at hip level. The bliaut is worn with a knotted girdle or cincture, Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres, between 1130 and 1160. • Detail of the knotted girdle worn with the bliaut gironé at Chartres. The waistband of the skirt can be seen above the knotted girdle. • Eve spinning in a long bliaut with straight sleeves and a linen veil, c. 1170. • Two women from the Hunterian Psalter. The woman on the left wears a veil and mantle. The young woman on the right wears her hair uncovered, and her bliaut sleeves are wide at the wrist as seen in English fashion c. 1170. • Queen Leonor of England, sitting on the far left, wears a veil that covers most of her body. ==Working clothes==

Image:Hunterian Psalter c. 1170 Mowing hay.jpg|1 – Haymaking Image:Hunterian Psalter c. 1170 digging.jpg|2 – Digging Image:Weinbau - Psalter 1180 March 2.jpg|3 – Pruning grapevines Image:Weinbau - Psalter 1180 September 2.jpg|4 – Harvesting grapes • Mowing hay. The man on the right works in linen braies, c. 1170 • Man digging has tucked up his long tunic, which he wears with chausses and ankle-high shoes, c. 1170 • Men pruning grapevines wear short tunics and chausses. The man on the left wears a hood over a linen coif, Normandy, c. 1180 • Men harvesting grapes. The man on the right wears braies and a coif, Normandy, c. 1180 ==See also==