It reaches a total extension of 94.686,40 ha distributed in 819,14 ha in
Albendiego, 447,76 ha in
Arbancón, 1.316,06 ha in
Bustares, 9.063,91 ha in
Campillo de Ranas, 11.707,33 ha in
Cantalojas, 18.468,44 ha in
El Cardoso de la Sierra, 1.060,58 ha in
Cogolludo, 467,59 ha in
Condemios de Abajo, 3.516,27 ha in
Galve de Sorbe, 1.899,43 ha in
Gascueña de Bornova, 453,93 ha in
Hiendelaencina, 3.046,31 ha in
La Huerce, 5.505,19 ha in
Majaelrayo, 154,82 ha in
Miedes de Atienza, 88,10 ha in
La Miñosa, 374,68 ha in
Las Navas de Jadraque, 1.865,70 ha in
El Ordial, 2.709,10 ha in
Prádena de Atienza, 44,28 ha in
Puebla de Valles, 736,89 ha in
Retiendas, 8.763,26 ha in
Tamajón, 38,41 ha in
La Toba, 3.198,04 ha in
Tortuero, 206,02 ha in
Ujados, 2.060,02 ai n
Valdepeñas de la Sierra, 1.916,45 ha in
Valdesotos, 4.531,46 ha in
Valverde de los Arroyos, 870,99 ha in
Villares de Jadraque, 510,29 ha in
Zarzuela de Jadraque and 1.516,87 ha in
Semillas.
Population history As indicated above, the mountains of the Sierra de Ayllón have been populated since ancient times.
Arevaci to the east,
Vaccaei to the north and
Carpetani to the south, followed by
Celts and
Celtiberians populated the valleys of the mountain chain attracted by the hunting and livestock possibilities as well as by the isolation provided by its mountains allowing them a better survival before the neighboring peoples. From the 3rd or 2nd century B.C. the
Romans remained in the area. The crisis of the
Empire in the 3rd century provokes that the population of the area is concentrated in the big
latifundia villas located in the areas of
Riaza,
Atienza and
Cogolludo in regime of autarchy. However, the settlers of the Macizo de Ayllón, due to the isolation of the area, practically continued with their unchanged life. The settlement of the
Visigoths in the 6th century in the
Iberian Peninsula, who continued with the feudal structures of the
Later Roman Empire, would not affect the way of life or the population settlement in the Sierra de Ayllón, remaining so until the arrival of the
Muslims to the Iberian Peninsula in the 8th century. During the first centuries of Muslim rule, the pastoral and livestock practices of the area were maintained until the 11th century, when the
Christian conquest arrived in the
Sistema Central, making the Sierra de Ayllón a frontier between the Christian kingdom of
Castile to the north and the Muslim
Taifa of Toledo to the south. This fact leads to an increasing instability in the whole Sistema Central which causes the depopulation of the area and the emigration of the population to the Meseta Norte and Meseta Sur of the mountains of Ayllón. With the conquest in 1085 by
Alfonso VI of what from then on would be called Extremadura Castellana and the consequent transfer of the fighting frontier to the banks of the
Tagus river, the valleys of the Macizo de Ayllón would be repopulated from then until the end of the 13th century with Castilians, Leonese and Galicians, with people who were once again cattle breeders. Many of the old
tainas were reconverted into small villages with a permanent population that maintained the ways of life of before the depopulation. Monastic repopulation was granted by
Alfonso VIII in 1164 and was carried out by the
Knights Templar of the houses of
Albendiego and
Bonaval, who founded small monasteries such as Royal Site of Santuy. The creation in 1214 of a convent and a factory in
Ayllón by
Francis of Assisi would give jurisdiction to the town and grant it as
Común de Tierra what today is known as
Tierras de Ayllón, hence the name given to the entire mountain chain that concerns us because a large part of it belongs to the
Comunidad de Villa y Tierra de Ayllón. Thus, with the creation of the
Comunidades de Villa y Tierra the different towns that flourished again in the Sierra de Ayllón were divided into several of these:
El Cardoso de la Sierra, Colmenar de la Sierra, El Vado, the area of the Cebollera
Vieja and Cebollera Nueva,
Somosierra,
Santo Tomé del Puerto,
Cerezos de Abajo and
Cerezos de Arriba came under the jurisdiction of the
Común de Villa y Tierra de Sepúlveda, which passed during the 14th century in good part to the Mendoza family, within the Marquisate of Montesclaros since the 15th century, from which fact still remains a House between
El Cardoso and Colmenar; the area between the
Sierra del Ocejón and the rivers Jaramilla and Berbedillo reaching south to
Almiruete were included within the
Común de Villa y Tierra de Ayllón, in the hands of the
Marquis of Villena;
Riofrío and Hontanares under the jurisdiction of the
Comunidad de Cilla y Tierra de Fresno de Cantespino; from the
Sierra del Ocejón and the
Sorbe river eastward, including the term of
Valverde de los Arroyos, is under the jurisdiction of the
Común de Villa y Tierra de Atienza, and later, towards the 14th century, would be included in the newly created County of Galve, in the hands of the
Zúñiga and, later, of the
Mendoza and the
dukes of Alba; the south of the massif in the districts of
Valdepeñas,
Tortuero and
Valdesotos came under the jurisdiction of the
Común de Villa y Tierra de Uceda, controlled since 1249 by
Sancho of Castile, archbishop of Toledo and son of king
Ferdinand III;
Tamajón would remain as a land of
Royal manor forming its own jurisdiction. Under this
seignorial organization would remain the political organization of the area, with its perceptible variables that occur over time, until the abolition of the lordships in the 19th century in favor of the
provincialist vision that began to impose itself. Meanwhile, life in the mountains of Ayllón followed the same course as in ancient times. The peace of these lands was only punctuated by the
war against the French
Napoleonic Empire between 1808 and 1810, when the Macizo de Ayllón was the scene of battles for the control of the mountain passes. During the
Confiscation Law promoted by
Juan Álvarez Mendizábal in 1836, the communal properties, which were many in the area, were put up for sale, and thus began the first economic and demographic decline of the Sierra of Ayllón in the
Late modern period. It is in this period when villages such as Pedehuste, La Mata de Robledo, El Bustar, Pinarejo or Catar de Pie Mediano were depopulated, of which only a few vestiges or isolated
tainas remain in the middle of the mountain. The
National Plan of Economic Stabilization of 1959 and its consequent industrial development makes that during the decade of the 60s the region loses almost half of its population by the emigration of this one to the great metropolitan areas in growth, mainly those of
Madrid,
Barcelona and
Bilbao. In the 1970s, a second wave of emigration, mainly to
Madrid,
Guadalajara and
Segovia, left many of the villages uninhabited. In these new waves of depopulation, the construction of the reservoirs of
El Vado and Matallana (the latter was never built) caused the two villages that give it its name to disappear from the map, while the difficult living conditions, the lack of economic prosperity due to the isolation of the area and the forced expropriations due to reforestation, are the reasons why others such as Umbralejo, La Vereda or La Vihuela also lost their population. As for the rest of the towns in the area, the loss of inhabitants is continuous, although it is true that in some areas there is a stabilization of the population due mainly to
rural tourism in some of its municipalities, which gives a certain air, although scarce, of economic prosperity in the Sierra de Ayllón.
Populations Due to the living conditions in a high mountain climate, the
population in the area has always been scarce, although nowadays, and for decades, it also suffers from the problem of
depopulation. So much so that the approximate population density of 0.8 people per km² in the area is one of the lowest in Europe, with almost 900 km² in the heart of the mountain chain divided between less than 800 inhabitants. The Sierra of Ayllón extends through the following municipalities encompassing its various
Villages, including the
abandoned ones:
Villages in the heart of the mountain chain •
Almiruete, in the municipal district of Tamajón • Becerril, in the municipal district of Riaza •
Campillo de Ranas • Campillejo • El Espinar • Matallana • Roblelacasa • Robleluengo • La Vereda •
El Cardoso de la Sierra • Bocígano • El Bustar (abandoned) • Pinarejo (abandoned) • Cabida • Colmenar de la Sierra • Corralejo • La Hiruela Vieja or La Hiruelilla (abandoned) • Peñalba de la Sierra • Santuy (abandoned) • La Vihuela (abandoned) •
La Hiruela •
Majaelrayo • El Muyo, in the municipal district of Riaza •
Palancares, in the municipal district of Tamajón • La Pinilla, in the municipal district of Cerezo de Arriba •
Puebla de la Sierra •
Retiendas •
Riofrío de Riaza • El Vado (abandoned), in the municipal district of Tamajón. •
Valverde de los Arroyos • Majadas Viejas (abandoned) • La Mata de Robledo (abandoned) • Pedehuste or Peyuste (abandoned) • Zarzuela de Galve
Villages on the northern slope, adjacent to the Meseta Norte •
Cerezo de Abajo •
Cerezo de Arriba • Grado del Pico •
Riaza • Hontanares (abandoned) • Madriguera • Martín Muñoz de Ayllón • El Negredo • Serracín • Villacorta • Santibáñez de Ayllón •
Santo Tomé del Puerto • Rosuero • Villarejo
Villages on the western slope, adjacent to the SSierra de Somosierra •
Horcajo de la Sierra • Aoslos •
Horcajuelo de la Sierra •
Madarcos •
Montejo de la Sierra •
Prádena del Rincón •
Robregordo •
Somosierra Villages on the southern slope, adjacent to the Campiña de Guadalajara •
Tamajón •
Tortuero •
Valdepeñas de la Sierra • Alpedrete de la Sierra •
Valdesotos Villages on the eastern slope, adjacent to Sierra de Pela and Sierra de Alto Rey •
Cantalojas • Villacadima (abandoned) •
Galve de Sorbe •
La Huerce • Umbralejo (abandoned) • Valdepinillos In the villages located in the heart of the Sierra de Ayllón, as well as on the eastern and southern slopes, the so-called "black architecture" is developed, a type of construction based on
black slate, abundant throughout the Sierra de Ayllón, which gives a blackish tone to the villages in the area. On the northern slope is more common the "red architecture", so called due to the reddish tone of its constructions based on mixing
clay and
slate.
Economy Although scarce, there is population in this area since ancient times, always dedicated to hunting. In fact, the origin of many villages such as
El Cardoso de la Sierra, El Bustar or Catar de Pie Mediano (now gone) is in the settlement of the so-called
gentes de armas, that is, hunters, in different places that allowed them to hunt the prey in
batida.
Livestock goat,
bovine and
vaccine has been another important economic sector in the area. This phenomenon gave rise to the appearance of a type of construction typical of the area, the
taina, often grouped in
teinadas, giving rise, on some occasions, to the origin of towns such as Roblelacasa,
Majaelrayo or
Valverde de los Arroyos. Today there are two main economic engines in the area. On the one hand, the retirements, due to the high average age of its inhabitants. On the other hand, there is tourism, especially in the villages surrounding
Pico Ocejón and in the
Riaza area. Numerous
rural lodgings,
hikers and
mountaineers routes through mountains and forests, and
La Pinilla ski resort are its main tourist attractions. However, this is not generalized, and in areas where tourism is scarce, either because of their isolation or poor communication, as is the case of
El Cardoso de la Sierra, depopulation is even more pronounced than in the more touristy areas.
Communications , to the southwest. The Sierra de Ayllón is one of the worst communicated areas of central Spain, even within itself. Traditionally the
paths and
footpaths between the mountains have been the main means of communication between the villages of the massif and between them and the surrounding valleys. Today, the abrupt
orography results in narrow roads and
forest tracks, with no other possible
means of transport. Depending on the area of the mountain chain you want to reach, there are four ways to get to the heart of the Macizo de Ayllón: • From the south from
Guadalajara, the most common and busiest route, taking the CM-101 to
Humanes, where it continues along the CM-1004 to
Tamajón. After Tamajón, the road turns into a "Y" towards
Majaelrayo, on the left (GU-186), and towards
Valverde de los Arroyos, on the right (GU-211). These two roads have recently undergone renovations due to their heavy traffic, especially on weekends, and the deplorable state they were in. • From the west from the A-1, between
Buitrago del Lozoya and
Somosierra, through Puerto del Cardoso → take the detour to
Horcajo de la Sierra following the M-141 to
Montejo de la Sierra where you can take the M-139 towards Puerto del Cardoso to
El Cardoso de la Sierra by the GU-187, or by the M-137 to
La Hiruela and, from there, the GU-137 to the different villages of the municipality of El Cardoso. • From the north from
Riaza on the SG-112 through
Riofrío de Riaza to Puerto de la Quesera. From there a road leads to
Majaelrayo after more than 30 km of road between forests,
valleys and mountains. • From the east, the CM-1006, which links
Jadraque and
Cogolludo with
Galve de Sorbe and the CM-110 (road from
Sigüenza to
Ayllón through
Atienza), has a detour through Umbralejo to
Valverde de los Arroyos on the GU-211, which cannot be used by
buses and
trucks due to the closeness of its
curves and the narrowness of the bridges over the
Sorbe river and the Arroyo de los Vallejos. On the other hand, the communications between the different zones of the mountain chain are based on small and narrow roads: • The western and eastern zones, separated by the Jaramilla river, are joined by a narrow, winding road that is impassable in times of snow and heavy rains, making the two areas completely cut off from each other, being only accessible to the
municipal district of
El Cardoso de la Sierra only by the
Community of Madrid despite being part of the
province of Guadalajara. • The northern and southern areas are joined by a long road, which joins
Majaelrayo and
Riaza through Puerto de la Quesera, which can be impassable in times of heavy snowfall. Along its 41 km, only
Riofrío de Riaza, very close to Riaza, can be found as a town; and there's also a forest track, about 22 km long, which joins Majaelrayo and
Cantalojas through the Tejera Negra beech forest without passing through any other town. == Notes ==