Broderie anglaise is characterized by patterns composed of round or oval holes, called
eyelets, which are cut out of the fabric, then bound with
overcast or
buttonhole stitches. The patterns, often depicting flowers, leaves, vines, or stems, are further delineated by simple embroidery stitches made on the surrounding material. Later broderie anglaise also featured small patterns worked in
satin stitch. The technique originated in 16th century eastern Europe—probably in what is now the
Czech Republic—but remains associated with England because of its popularity there during the 19th century. In the
Victorian era, broderie anglaise typically had open areas in many sizes. Transfers were used first to lay out the design on the material. In some cases, the holes were punched out with an embroidery stiletto before finishing the edge; in other cases, the fabric was embroidered first, and the hole was cut afterwards, with scissors. Beginning in the 1870s, the designs and techniques of broderie anglaise could be copied by the Swiss
hand-embroidery and
schiffli embroidery machines. Today, most broderie anglaise is created by machine. Madeira work is a popular form of broderie anglaise associated with artisans on
Madeira, a group of Portuguese islands off the coast of Africa.
Similarities with Chikankari Chikankari, first recorded in the 16th century in Persia and India, involves intricate needlework with openwork and embroidery. Both techniques use specialised tools to punch holes in the fabric, allowing for the creation of intricate patterns. In Chikankari, a stitch called "Hool" exemplifies this, using a fine detached eyelet stitch where a hole is punched in the fabric and the threads are teased apart. ==Fashion and popular culture==