The calcei of most
plebs were made of undyed but tanned leather. (The version made with untanned
rawhide instead was known as the pero.) The "
patrician calceus" seems to have often been dyed red,
Tyrian purple, or some equivalent.
Senators and higher ranking
priests were likewise expected to wear the
mulleus or "red calceus" along with their red-edged
toga praetexta while engaged in their public duties.
Festus claimed the mulleus was originally used by the kings of
Alba Longa before being adopted by the patricians.
Cassius Dio states that the patrician shoes were originally marked with the
letter R, although early forms of Latin used an R closer in shape to the later
P. Francis X. Ryan has offered that this class distinction in footwearrather than procedural statusmay have been responsible for the name of the
backbencher .
Cato the Elder stated that, by the end of the Republic, plebs who had reached
curule office were entitled to the formerly patrician footwear. Plebeian generals like
Marius who celebrated a
triumph were likewise permitted to wear them.
Talbert states that by the imperial era there is no conclusive evidence that footwear continued to differ between the classes as a whole, possibly because the emperors began to restrict the use of certain status symbols to themselves. Other calcei were distinguished by their ornamentation. The "
equestrian calceus" or ) included distinct crescent-shaped buckles. The "senatorial calceus" was likewise distinguished by a crescent-shaped ornament, an
ivory lunula attached to the back of the shoe. By the mid-imperial period, this was probably made of black leather. The "turned calceus" (
New Latin ) was an unrelated pointy-toed unisex
Etruscan form of footwear, which receives its name from a passage in
Cicero where he references
Juno Sospita's , "pointed slippers". ==See also==