.|right
Zhao Rukuo reported that Cambodia exported raw silk and cotton fabrics in the early 13th century. According to
Zhou Daguan's late 13th century report, the "locals" of Angkor didn't engage in silk production or use needle and thread. Instead they'd "weave cotton from
Kapok" on a backstrap loom.
Zhou mentioned that people from
Siam brought silk production into
Angkor and weave "black patterned satiny silk". Inscriptions, bas-reliefs, and
Zhou Daguan's late 13th century report have shown that backstrap looms were used to weave, at least during Angkor.. Cambodia's modern silk-weaving centers are
Takéo,
Battambang, Beanteay Meanchey,
Siem Reap and
Kampot provinces. Silk-weaving has seen a major revival recently, with production doubling over the past ten years. This has provided employment for many rural women. Cambodian silk is generally sold domestically, where it is used in
sampot (wrap skirts), furnishings, and
pidan (pictorial tapestries), but interest in international trade is increasing.
Chong kiet ''
is the Khmer ikat technique. To create patterns, weavers resist-dye portions of weft yarn before weaving begins. Patterns are diverse and vary by region; common motifs include lattice, stars, and spots. The noun kiet
in the Cambodian dictionary is defined as, "a silk material dyed by the Cham method, i.e. by binding up different areas in turn so that they do not take up the color." As a verb, kiet
means "tighten, roll up, draw up." In Khmer, chong kiet'' means "tying strings."
Silk hol What's unique to Cambodian silk weaving is the use of uneven twill groundweave with the
chong kiet technique. This yields single or two-color fabrics, which are produced by weaving three threads so that the "color of one thread dominates on one side of the fabric, while the two others determine the color on the reverse side." The result is a brighter tone one side, while the shade of the pattern itself remains consistent. This produces a textile referred to as
hol (ហល), as in
sampot hol and
hol pidan. It was common for a period that powerful Siamese officials requested
hol silk garments from Khmer weavers in Cambodia. Three silk
hol-patterned
sampot chong kben and “a similarly-patterned
silk shoulder cloth” were gifted to American President
Franklin Pierce by Siamese King
Mongkut for the 1856 Harris Treaty. Writer and archaeologist Lisa McQuail wrote that King Mongkut describes the Thai silk items included in the Harris Treaty Gifts as “second quality,” likely because they were not as fine as the accompanying Khmer silks.
Art historian Gillian Green writes that the “uneven twill groundweave” affirms the refined-patterned garments were Khmer-made and a polished talent significantly predating the mid-nineteenth century and established borders. The Khmers indigenous to eastern present-day Thailand also utilize this uneven twill unlike the Thais. Traditionally, aside from the natural color of the silk, the
hol palette consists of the following colors: yellow; indigo; maroon; red; blue for highlights; red "overdyed with indigo" to get purple, and yellow "overdyed with indigo" to get green.
Hol pidan (ហូលពិតាន) refers to a silk Khmer pictorial temple hanging, and transliterates as
bitan meaning "extension, curtain, canopy," derived from the
Sanskrit word
vitana, defined as “an awning, canopy or cover.”
Angkor era inscriptions reveal a word whose use and description match today’s term
pidan. The Khmer dictionary today defines
pidan as ‘ceiling’ or 'canopy,' generally that of a
vihear (Buddhist worship hall).
Pidan rup duk, meaning "pidan in the style of a boat/ship" ពិតានរបេទក, refers to
pidans woven with ship motifs.
Pidan rup preah ពិតានរបេប្រា means "
pidan in the holy/deity stylem" and
pidan rup prasat ពិតានរបេសាទ is a "
pidan in the temple style." An example of a less-common
pidan preah is a tiered
pidan placed over a Buddha inside a
vihear for protection. These may be slightly adorned with moon and sun icons.
Hol pidan may also be hung like a parasol above the Buddha for protection. Traditionally,
pidans are dedicated in the
vihear for holy use. In the past,
pidans were commissioned by wealthy donors to protect Buddha images in a
wat. This high-value item earned merit for the donor.
Pidans may also function as ‘scenes of paradise’ where they’re placed next to the dying. The
pidan-making process can last from three months to a year. Since the 1960s,
pidan production began satisfying an artistic market and serving secular purposes.
Pidans currently have three categories of Buddhist themes:
Vessantara Jātaka;
Prince Siddhartha, and Three Worlds cosmology. Buddhist
hol pictorial depictions are crafted to fit one and a half meters (or just under five feet long) of fabric, or twice that, with shorter versions depicting illustrated stories while the longer silks bear repeated thematic icons. Examples of classic figures that portray Jataka tale are white elephants, horses, the Buddha mounted on a pedestal, a Brahman priest in
chong kben, and open pagodas housing three figures (likely Prince Vessantara’s family). The first form of the Prince Siddhartha
pidans are important life events in a left-to-right fashion, with stylized and flat figures ignoring traditional perspectives. The second utilize repeated figures that symbolize events of Siddhartha’s life. The third is Three Worlds ត្រៃភូមិ (or
Trey Phum, derived from Sanskrit) cosmology. The upper, middle, and lower primary realms are the Tusita and Tavatimsa Heaven, a perfected world desired by humans, and the final destination of the condemned, respectfully. Popular motifs of the upper realm are
Indra (green of color,
parasol in-hand), cloud-mounted religious halls,
apsaras, praying worshippers, seated Buddha, and waving banners (
tung rolok) and crocodile banners (
tung krapeu) held in beaks, on pagodas, and on poles. The middle realm's forest Prei Haembopean is inhabited by composite animals, and also
kinnari and
kinnara, lions, tigers, elephants, horses, and peacocks. Some creatures feature pagodas mounted on their backs. Moon and sun icons may also appear. A small group of antique
hol pidan, called
pidan rup duk, bear ship motifs.
Nagas, birds, lobsters, crabs, fish, rays, turtles, sharks, seahorses, elephants (not white), and also crocodile banners and trees-of-life - which also appear in Buddhist themed
hol pidan - may accompany the ships. Ship cloth
pidans include 'archaic ships' with a middle superstructure up to three stories housing figures.
Naga finials adorn the ship. Land-based religious pavilions may also appear, sometimes in threes. 'Sailing ships' depict vessels that visited Cambodia over the centuries, such as Chinese, Arab, and European. Some depict stylized composite ships. 'Symbolic ships' have two categories: as pairs of “stacked layers,” the widest layer being the foundation and rows decreasing in width all the way to the (naga-headed) top. The motif created is a flower mound (
phka ben), or even a stupa. The second symbolizes a model ship via an incense holder or banana tree trunk. Both support motifs symbolizing incense or a candle flame.
Pidan production peaked between 1880 and 1930. Women are the majority of
pidan weavers and always have been; the practice is a crucial source of income.
Phamuong Phamuong សំពត់ផាមួង /pʰaa muəŋ/ are single-colored, weft-faced twill (or taffeta) silks that may utilize contrasting warp and weft colors for a shimmering look, or "shot silk." Woven in plain groundweave, the
phamuong is typically unpatterned and hand-produced using a two-framed traditional loom. ==Non-textile weaving==