The citron in Calabria was celebrated by poets like
Byron and
D'Annunzio, but is only saved from extinction thanks to the
Jewish tradition. Because Calabria is at the southern point of Italy, and its
climate most
Mediterranean, it is the most suitable for the citron. Despite the milder climate, during the winter it is still too cold for the citron; this is why the farmers need to protect them with blue or green plastic covers. Most of the citron trees in the area are
grafted onto foreign
citrus rootstock, in order to save them from frost and disease. This practice renders their fruits non-
kosher for the Sukkot ritual, and therefore in order for
mashgichim to certify a citron as kosher, they must first carefully inspect the tree to confirm it was not grafted. A Jewish delegation comes from Israel to
Santa Maria del Cedro every year between July and August to choose the best fruit to be used in the holiday for the Jewish community. The selection of the best fruit is a virtual ritual. The
mashgichim, each followed by a worker carrying a box and a pair of scissors, go to the citron farms at five in the morning. The mashgiach or machgicha proceeds slowly looking left and right. Then they stop and look at the base of the tree, right where the
trunk comes up from the ground. A smooth trunk means the tree has not been grafted and the fruit can be picked. The mashgiach or mashgicha lies down on the ground to better examine the lower branches between the leaves. . Once a suitable fruit is found, the mashgiach or mashgicha shows it to the worker who cuts it off leaving a piece of the
stalk. Then the mashgiach or mashgicha analyses the picked citron one more time and if they decide it is worthy they wrap it in
oakum and puts it in the box. The farmer receives the agreed sum for each picked fruit. Then the boxes are sealed and sent to the
Lamezia Terme International Airport, their final destination Tel Aviv. Although
diamante is also grown in
Puerto Rico,
Sicily and
Sardinia, their citrons are not used for the Jewish ritual, since no
kashrut certification was present at transplantation. Seeds and cuttings of inspected trees were planted in the Israeli village of
Kfar Chabad, with the
hechsher certification by major kashrut organizations. The methods for tree checking to verify if the tree is grafted or not were established by a board of
rabbis in Israel by 1877 as described in
Kuntres Pri Etz Hadar which was published in
Jerusalem a year after. == Other citron varieties ==